Nitrous and 4.08 FD build!
 

Hey guys I'm so stoked to finally be able to start my build! Well it all started when I saw a member selling his Nitrous on the parts for sale thread and instantly I was Hooked! Haha!

I plan on running a 100 Shot but I haven't installed it yet because I'm looking for shops who can install it for me and of course tune it. One small detail that's bothering me though, I bought the one step colder plugs by NGK but is there going to be any complications while driving the vehicle NA???

Missing parts for Completion of Build:

-350Z 6Mt pumpkin
-4.08 Gears
-Quaife Lsd
*The Gears and Quaife ill be getting them from Z1 Performance* (Of course after Tax Return is done hahaha!)

NGK plugs One Step Colder
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps72e8d307.jpg

Bottle Warmer with Blanket
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2666f61e.jpg

Automatic Bottle Opener
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6491e5d1.jpg

Lean AFR shut down switch & Arming Switches
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps32d6145f.jpg

Dual Nozzle
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psed5d9483.jpg

Digital Nitrous PSI Gauge
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psacf1613c.jpg

Purge System
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5f2eacdf.jpg

TPS/RPM Window Switch
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psf24fe487.jpg

Nitrous & Fuel Solenoids
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps081a54b1.jpg

Liquid Filled Pressure Gauge
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps72b6c932.jpg

I'm missing some pictures like the 10lbs bottle, Autometer tach adaptar and Blow Down Switch. Reason why I haven't installed it is because I don't have the tools and no lifts :( so I'm going to take it a shop (when I find one) and tune it. But I'd really want to know if driving with One Step Colder Plugs affect in any way while driving NA?

*Also like I said ill be uploading the Gears, Quaife and 350Z pumpkin once I get my tax return done :tup:

Where do you plan on spraying into?

There should be no notable change running those NA. Their primary purpose is to have a snubbier projection and improved insulating capacity to release heat quicker therefore minimizing det or pre-ign. I would suggest copper as well if available as they read better.

You may also want to consider removing the fittings, cleaning off the teflon tape, and re-tighten with loctite blue. Most kit manufacturers frown on the teflon tape as it potentially can disintegrate and clog solenoids. Or buy new fittings since they are NPT crush thread and to re-tighten may be less effective seal second go around.

my .02

Thx Oldrice for the advise that was my only BIG QUESTION as to how that would work lol.. and also to clarify I bought the kit off a member here but I've had it since December 26, 2013. I never installed it or started to look for someone to install seeing as I wanted to get everything together and yes I will disassemble everything so everything can be sealed up and hooked up the right way :tup: Of course I'm always Open to tips, suggestions basically anything that's helpful and I much appreciate it.

To what gear I'm going to spray well thanks to the TPS/RPM window switch I'm locking out 1 & 2 gear and spraying 3rd and 4th being as there might already be wheel spin on 1st & 2nd with the 4.08s...of course being at a drag strip once I invest on some Drag Radials I could possibly try spraying on 2nd but atm the moment I haven't decided on 2nd gear yet...

looking forward to results

happy spinning!
 

What 315+ width rear tires are you going to run? I can burn out starting in 2nd gear with my 4.08's and sticky 275 Hankook RS3's and I'm N/A @320whp. I never got good hook on the rear in 1st until I put 305 RE11's on a coupla years ago, and they had to be warmed up a little.. wish I had a set of them now with the gears..

Subd:tup:

Good luck with the install, you will be pleased! The colder plugs when running stock are a non issue. I installed mine myself it wasn't difficult if you think you might try it your self the hardest part it fitting it all in there. Definitely tune it at 100 shot, in for results!

OP - I propose you attempt the layout install yourself. I say that because it will help you troubleshoot and self-support the system in the future. Leave the wiring and tune to a shop and save labor costs on the bottle, lines, solenoid setup.

Also I am a big proponent of progressive controllers. Your typical nitrous dyno result shows a huge spike in wtq when the n2o comes in then tapers off fairly quick as rpm climb. PC ramping options allow you to smooth that torque spike out somewhat. I personally have always been hyperfocused on managing wtq rather than computed derivative whp. Of course if you are drag racing maybe you want the torque early in the first 60'. Balance between safety & performance. Setting your rpm window to 4000-7000 is a good place to start.

.03 :tiphat:

Can someone please chime in as to what I should gap my spark plugs I'm doing the install on plugs myself as we speak bearly removed the strut bar :tup:

*Update*

So I was changing the spark plugs (SUPER EASY BTW, I thought it was going to be hard or what not but I followed the steps Spohn mentioned and its EASY!) I NOTICED SO OIL LEAK from the Valve Cover...Long story short my valve cover gasket is shot and I have to wait till monday to buy 2 New Valve cover gaskets from nissan. I might aswell replace both since I'm already there working on the engine and I'm glad I saw this NOW rather than something worse happening down the road after installing my parts from my build. So I'm a little stuck atm but nothing that can't be fixed :tup:...will keep posted...

Conventional wisdom is plug gap = .032 ~ .034. @ jetting 100 and beyond. I will be testing if this real makes a difference since I will be stock gap of .043 for a 125 re-tune this spring.

the conventional gapping wisdom on nitrous though is based on copper plugs with crappy murican factory ignitions though you should be able to get away with more with iridiums, another old way to do it was to gap them down .005-.01 from factory

Keep us updated man. I'm really interested seeing how this turns out.

Thanks, Appreciate the input @OldRice & @1slow370 although I'm on pause till tomorrow morning when I go to nissan to purchace the gaskets THEN I can continue to the build :tup:

**UPDATE!**
After finally recieving my valve cover gasket I finally got to change my spark plugs for the first time! And here's some pics incase some of yall never seen how our cams look :tup: It was a great a experience seeing as this was Cost Free of Labor (I worked on it) and yes like some of you have mentioned working on the Z is super easy its just patience and basic knowledge is what its needed....ALSO due to unplugging my TB I had a code of P0507 meaning high RPM than normal. How I fixed that problem is by doing the pedal re-learn process for the TB (Just an FYI if you come across this problem ;) )

LEFT Valve Cover
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps60ee8241.jpg
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps511f4422.jpg
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps511f4422.jpg
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psf91d9037.jpg

RIGHT Valve Cover
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33594d28.jpg
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1947c5b7.jpg

Finally Assembled and Start Up with Brand New Gaskets and Fresh One-Step-Colder Plugs for the build! :tup:

http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...pscbd81ee8.jpg

Video Of My Zurii Alive! :excited::excited:
http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52227bce.jpg

Texas must be dusty....

Yea sortt but its Shop dust, washed it as soon as I got out lol

Hey yall, reality took over so I was at a pause on my build lol. But now I'm so undecisive what to put first??? I have the nitrous kit but all I would need would the tune OR go with a 75 shot for now until I gather ebough for tune (btw I still am not sure which to get either Standard or Tuner Uprev any suggestions??) And then there's the 4.08s....I can get a 350Z Differential carrier from and the FD and Bam Straight bolt on but I've only seen 350Z videos on youtube and NONE OF WHICH Actual 370Z Owners who've done this mod haven't made any vids of rolls, launches, DRAGGING PER SAY, etc etc....which makes me a little skeptical as to why? I favoring more towards the 4.08s seeing as I can get a feel of how things will be before I slap the nitrous with a tune all together but what if I make a mistake and should have gone with the nitrous route BLAAAAHHHHH DECISIONS!!

^Maybe slap the wet kit on and run on the stock 3.7FD as I would assume 4.08 gearing may potentially introduce traction issues once you up your jetting into 100-125-150 range. It is a foregone conclusion that you will be bored of 75 in 5 passes or less.

If it was me, start jetting @100 and get pro tuned on dyno with Uprev Tuner ver. Then tweak that base map as you move upward. My .02.

Thank you^^ ....yes I keep getting told that by a buddy of my who has a T/A and running nitrous (Of course not comparing Oranges to Apples lol) anywys initially I want to start at 100 but I'm going to start at 75 for now (only till next paycheck) so I can buy the Uprev Tuner. I can wait but I want to attend an event where its Crew vs. Crew here in the Valley at theEdinburg racetrack...so I'm pretty excited about this :tup:

I agree put a few passes down with your setup even at 75 shot then when you bump up decide what to do on the rear end. Just my humble opinion. My stock tires are not enough to get "good straight line power down" when I get these worn down more meat is definitely going in it. Keep posting results!

Most Definitely, like I said I appreciate input from any of yall if helpful or not I mean We Are A Community :tup:....I start installations tomorrow:excited: a buddy of mine will help me install it at his shop so I'm pretty sure I'm going to learn a thing or two especially "Wiring" uuuhg! electronics frustrates the hell out me worst than when I bearly started learning about gears hahahaha, ill upload pics soon.:excited::excited::happydance::driving:

Btw by more "Meat" are you going with a smaller wheel and mickey thompsons 555's or 555R's??? I was told they're pretty good on street/dragging?? Correct me if I'm wrong but input is appreciated :D

By more meat I mean that I'm going to go with. R888's 305/30/19 on the rear from what I've gotten out of the forum they seem to be a reaaly good sticky tire as long as the sun is out, but if you are going to have a set of wheels /tires just to drag I understand that 18's with the mt's is the way to go. I can't speak from personal experience but so far the forums haven't lead wrong

Just to clarify something.....its ONE nitrous and fuel Solenoid for the Dual Nozzles or is it TWO nitrous and Fuel Solenoids???? I thought it was one and one but apperantly my mechanic says its two and two or in my case 2 nitrous and one fuel solenoid. (I'm missing one fuel solenoid) also had to replace my Nitroys bottle since the screw where you open and close the bottle was damaged :/....

One nitrous solenoid one fuel solenoid both will be "t'd" so you have two n lines and two f lines one of each go to the fogger mounted on each intake .. couldn't just buy a new bottle valve?

What "t'd" and so that's correct then 2 nitrous and 2 fuel...1 and 1 for each intake??? If that's the case then I will need anothe fuel solenoid DAMMIT!.....And I could have but I rather fix that bottle later and have two bottles connected later down the road

No...what he meant was 1N2O noid, 1Fuel noid, going into a "T" fitting to split the lines out to each individual intake. You will however need (2) sets of jets for each side nozzle.

Thanks! For a moment there I thought I was getting Jipped from the mechanic.

Sorry I wasn't clear bro! But yeah "t" the line after each solenoid, for a minute there I almost said Get your stuff and go to another mech lol good luck with it!

[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psd96c25cd.jpg
[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psc12fecaf.jpg
[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...psaea40129.jpg
[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps338c81db.jpg
[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2212a2a7.jpg
[IMG]http://i1290.photobucket.com/albums/...ps71c14d0d.jpg

*UPDATE*
So far the installation is almost done due to the fact that I had to order a New Bottle since the last one was damaged but ill later fix it to have TWO 10lbs bottles (But that's later down the road). All its missing is the bottle warmer and blanket. I went for the stealth loom meaning I have my foggers nice and tucked in under my silicone post Maf Tubes and for now I have My Shot Jetted at 75 Shot for now while I try and save up for an Uprev Tune (Tuner Version)....Stay Tuned for more.... :tup::excited::excited:!!!!

*Forgot to include this*
Also I need to install my AEM Wideband, Air/Fuel Lean Cut off Switch, Digital N2O Pressure Gauge, and need the Skimatics from Dynotune for the RPM/TPS window Switch.....so still not done but its being a slow build since Reality tends to take over at times lmao but hey its part of the build process :tup:

get all the extras installed?