Had 679whp for 20 miles. Bent four connecting rods causing piston skirts to contact crankshaft counter weights. I would say anything over 600whp isn't going to last.

really old thread... these days 600+ is rather common. I ended up taking mine to 671. We have another car here that made 701. Lots of my customers are in the 600s.

I would never promise anyone that 600+ will be reliable. But it turns out, it tends to be. But you really need to watch your torque... and try and ramp in the boost so you can make your HP numbers without having to bring the torque up too high.

What is your opinion on max torque for a stock block?

Not holding you to anything just looking for personal opinion :tup:

SOHO got over 700whp out theirs and phunk stated the torque killed it. They were just over 600 ft lbs! I think 560 ft lbs is about the limit for reliability. I am coming up on two years at 600 whp and near 500 ft lbs with no issues so far. I started tracking the car last year so we will see how long she will last being pouned!

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Still on a stock block?

Yup...700 has been a few times and generally the results are not good!

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If someone wants the best odds that it will last for at least a few years, probably 425-450 lb ft. Once approaching or crossing the 500 lb ft, the owner needs to be prepared for, or at least accepting of, the worst. Though I believe in most cases the VHR will handle 500-525 lb ft for a long time. But the operator must consider that mechanical wear and fatigue is cumulative and the effects of driving habits and operating conditions can exponentially accelerate the process.

Good read and awesome to see the numbers grow as people try new things and push the envelope a little at a time. Personally shooting for 540-550whp on the bp kit within the next two years!!


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Im hoping to hit 500 whp for a daily Z with the AAM TT kit in Australia. Best pump fuel we have is BP Ultimate 98 which I think is equivelant to the US Pump93. Hope mine doesn't give in!

Also hoping to be in the 500's as soon as Sebastian feels like the tune is done enough and I can find a dyno day around here. :tup:

I wanted to know when and engine goes boom after forced induction, say from a blown rod and or piston or something else and it needs a rebuild, does the engine need to be replaced with a new or second hand one then rebuilt or does the one that blew get opened up and rebuilt?

Sorry for the noob question, but just wondering if it matters to open her up before she blows, or wait till it does (if it ever does) then upgrade the bottom end?

It depends if the engine was SWOLE. Aka, a rod came out the side of the block. If a rod breaks, then yes you will need a new block and whatever else got destroyed.

You say new block, is that referring to a whole new engine?

It terrifies me that you've already bought a turbo kit and you don't know these things. You seriously need to come up the learning curve before you murder your car. Start here: https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost...=maximum+boost

That was published in 1997. Prefer something more updated

Einstein published the Theory of Relativity in 1915 - is that out of date? Maximum Boost is probably the most common book I've seen get recommended over the years for turbochargers. Do yourself a favor and research, research, research.

:wtf2:This is just getting to pain to read. Holy F bomb

How about this one - I think it's called "Bumping old threads and asking questions you should have known the answer to before you pulled out your wallet and got in way, way over your head?" That current enough for you? There's a sequel too - it's called "I didn't know what I was doing, so I blew up my car and now I'm making payments on a paperweight"

Then you can finish the trilogy with the classic "Selling a broken car for pennies on the dollar."

:owned:
I've seen a lot of people invest in that trilogy over the years.

Most of the books I have read on going faster on the track are "old", why, because the principles, which is what I was learning at the beginning are all the same. Those were early 90's books, but nothing has really changed in principal and terminology. The only change has been better data logging and video recording equipment allowing you to see and improve faster.

Savage!

Then there's a prologue to the trilogy. "Should've just researched and the next three books wouldn't have existed."

How do I post that photo of mj eating pop corn!!! Fml these kill me!!! Dropped 15gs on a turbo kit doesn't know what an engine block is.


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He should join the Mustang forum I hear they know there chit. Oh crap turning left...:stirthepot:

I'm no expert, but, I think it's the big "blocky" thing that holds things inside and has things bolted onto it.

No silly it's the metal behind the tires

OK, so after the wonderful people here helping me understand what a block is and not making fun of me. I decided to read up on short block and long block.

So, if I was to destroy my stock block after being boosted, I could buy like a short block package for example from Z1 and swap that in and I would be good to go again?

SOHO could also hook you up with an engine as well! I'm waiting on my transmission to fail before I go to Level 10 for a bulletproof one and then once I have a real job, I plan to go to SOHO or Z1 for a 4.0-4.2 block :D

There is not a solid way to predict what will be taken out when an engine lets go. In many cases, you will need to replace the entire engine. Even if you just break a rod, the carnage that ensues will often destroy the top half of the engine as well.

:iagree:
Have taken too many motors apart to see that everything was damaged. Rare to see one that didn't damage the heads. Took one apart that had bits and pieces in the inlet manifold. :rofl2:

While testing our new twin fuel pump, we jumped the stock engine HP record by 50hp. :tiphat: Tuning on our test subject is via SpecialtyZ. :driving:

This was actually a month ago now that I think about it. I need to make some threads one of these days.

If the pic is hard to read, that there reads 818whp and 622lb-ft, Dynojet STD. 18.5psi peak boost. 4th gear pull.

Big single Turbo or twin's? Good job keeping torque somewhat at bay!

Twin Garrett GT3076R Gen I with Tial Turbine housings, cant remember which housing off the top of my head.

That look's like those $24,950.00 manifolds... ;)

Nice work phunk! :tup:

It appears that mounting the turbos away from the heads a bit, can keep the torque down & not affect HP.
I've noticed some of the other exhaust manifolds (that hold the snails up closer to the engine) seem to put more torque down.....must be the extra heat or use of smaller,quicker spooling turbo's.
Than again-it could all be in the hand's of the Tuner.

Controlling that boost :)

The boost curve you are seeing on that dyno graph is by design. Notice the power starts at zero... I begin recording before I step on the throttle, and when I do step in, I ease down the same way I (and the vehicle owner) would on the street. From there the boost control is programmed to gradually increase boost as rpm climbs. This is part of the strategy to keeping the fragile stock engine alive at this type of power.

At the lower boost settings in the 600s to the wheels I drove this car on the street myself and the low end torque is better than my supercharged mustang. It feels amazing and changed my mind about turbo sizing on the VHR. I would never bother with a smaller turbo than this car has on it now. The response is already just plain immediate, despite having 1000-1100whp worth of turbo on it.

That's absolutely amazing. Great work Charles!!

Thanks, I just added that it was a 4th gear pull as well. We have always dyno'd 370z in 4th gear here. I dont know how much higher it would be in 5th since we never did any comparisons.