Good luck with your build! I've been reading through all your threads cosmo, took me 3 weeks to get approved on here lol

Ahhh. I want your Supra!

its for sale Nix. get it!!!

I managed to get a few things done today, check it out.. I also took the time to mate the intake manifold up to the plenum while off the car and believe it or not the runners on the base of the plenum are noticeably smaller.

Here is one of the intake and plenum off of the car. I will be taking a bit off of the base of the plenum so it is a smooth transition of air flow.

I believe Z1 actually offers this service, I definitely remember seeing this on their website

To be honest I didn't know what that service involved since they never really said. I just happened to notice it when I was mating them up not to take away from z1. I kinda thought they might have just taken a few mm off of the runner or something...

Happy Easter everyone..

Ok guys I need opinions on wtf happened to my oil pickup. Here are a few pics of why I ask this question. If you look closely at the diameter of the pickup tubes you will see the one on the blown motor is almost closed but I couldn't find anywhere on oil pan where it may have been pushed against it.. Now compare that to the new built motor oil pickup tube. Maybe the motor could have blown due to oil starvation..?

WTF? :icon14:

The only thing I can think of is maybe the crank pushed it down when the motor blew...

Anything on the pan that would indicate contact was made? Who installed your GTM kit the first time around?

Yeah I'm pretty that's the only way that could have happened. I did the install and the car ran flawlessly until I went to z1 to have it dynoed. Not saying z1 did anything wrong. I have gotten a lot done and will post up some pics tomorrow...

Check the lower pan for dents. Sometimes people will jack the car up in the wrong place(like the oil pan). It could of happen when you pulled the engine out and placed it on the ground. However, there is no metal shavings from what i can tell from the Pic so, your engine did not blow from oil starvation. If there is no dents in the pan or marks then good job Nissan.

There are No marks on the oil pan and I would never jack up the car using the oil pan as a lift point...

That looks like possible warping from heat....

NO! If it was. That would have to be around 400+ deg. His oil would have been turned into ashes. Inside of his motor would show burned oil deposits.

Yeah and the metal would be more discoloured I suppose.

looks like a defective part, i cant imagine how that would happen in use

Yep. ;)

Ok so today I managed to get the oil pan drilled and tapped and the oil pan back on. Also the gtm oil sending unit connected to the new motor.. Tomorrow I will drill and tap the motor for the gtm exhaust manifolds...

Why are you not using an oil pan spacer or greddy oil pan? I thought most turbo guys wanted to increase oil capacity.

Actually the oil cooler depending on what size adds about a quart. I'm not crazy about how the oil pan spacer makes the oil pan the lowest point on the front of the car...

good luck sir. how are things coming along? can't wait to see the finished product.

Coming along pretty well and thanks for asking. I need to order another setab 34 row core since I already have the lines and sandwich. plate.

Today I managed to get the intake torqued down and the fuel rails and injectors on. Also managed to get the new z1 motor mounts on and the drivers side exhaust manifold.

What are your power level goals? This being a built motor I figured you were going big. Then I see that you are staying with the stock fuel rail.

Oh come on man lets not get into the fuel rail debate... lol Again I have already spoken with Charles and bobby at vsr and my stock rails will be fine with my aeromotive 340 and my 750cc or 1050cc injectors. My power goals should be in the low to mid 600whp with my gtm stage II turbo's. I don't want crazy power because one it is not usable and two I want it to be Reliable...

Just a question man...You will basically have the same fuel setup as I do if you go with 750s. If that's good enough for 600-650whp then I would be able to cross something off the big power build list. I'll be interested to see how it turns out.

I believe 2 or 3 others have this kit with built motors. None made over 600. The only one I know that made over 600 with built block ran e85. I don't think you'll be limited by fuel but rather your turbo kit. SSqueeze with his stage 3 kit made the numbers you're looking for.

Good luck buddy!

Today I got all of the pulleys put on, a/c compressor, motor drilled and tapped and exhaust manifolds on. After reading Esfourteen's build thread his shop found a way to tap into the motor block on the drivers side and from there feeding both turbo's but after calling them they have decided to not share the part number. It may take some time but I Will find this part and post up a part number to all that have the same kit so you have the option of cooling the turbo's better than the way gtm designed it. Yes I offered to pay for the part but like I said I will share it when I find it...

Thanks again esfourteen for trying to share this with the community....:tup:

Solid! Good stuff hope u can get the part number asap!

Actually after looking at the motor there are 2 ports that can be used on each side. More to come soon...

Coming right along!

Todays updated pic. I'm getting close guys..

RAD T'd off the driver side because its the coldest source of coolant possible, but I would suspect running one to each turbo would still be far superior to what GTM does. Also be sure to clock the turbo so that the output port is facing slightly up which will help pull coolant through the turbo after you shut off the car.

Do you know the direction of the flow going to and from the turbo's that way I can get a better idea ? The drivers turbo is already clocked but it can only be moved so much or the piping will not fit align correctly...

Theres no specific in/out, its just how coolant flows through the block that will dictate where it goes, ideally you want the turbo clocked in way that one of the coolant ports is higher than the other to help draw coolant through the turbo which would be your output, like this:

http://i.imgur.com/H6hR5s4.png

So if you orient the turbo in this manner the "in" is the left port, the "out" is the right port. the center cartridge can be oriented any way you want, just unbolt it from the compressor and turbo housings.

I would run a line from the side of the block as the "in", and the "out" route to the heater core hoses like it is currently.

I would have thought the coolant coming from the heater core since it is the highest point would flow down and through the turbo out to the engine port on the side.. That's strange that it would flow up instead of down...