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-   -   Top three gauges to have in a boosted car? (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/74763-top-three-gauges-have-boosted-car.html)

MnTBlitz 08-30-2013 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2456725)
Those are the top three. I've got boost and AFR on the A pillar, and eventually I'll swap the ones on the dash to oil pressure, EGT and a multigauge for water and oil temp.

What would you be able to tell by monitoring the EGT? I was looking to go with the Boost, AFR, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Keeping all the factory gauges where they are. I wasnt planning on changing the radiator yet if I dont have to. This way i can atleast monitor the water temp if it becomes a problem.

Sh0velMan 08-30-2013 03:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnTBlitz (Post 2468157)
What would you be able to tell by monitoring the EGT? I was looking to go with the Boost, AFR, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. Keeping all the factory gauges where they are. I wasnt planning on changing the radiator yet if I dont have to. This way i can atleast monitor the water temp if it becomes a problem.

It will.

mfeinst 08-30-2013 03:18 PM

I've always been in the Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, AFR camp with a boost controller, and Oil Pressure, AFR, Boost without one.

Oil temp is special on the Z, though. We all know. :P

Driftomodachi 08-30-2013 05:28 PM

GReddy

Arrvaxx 08-30-2013 05:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi (Post 2468306)

Great gauges...too bad they are too big.

MnTBlitz 08-30-2013 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi (Post 2468306)

Doesn't look like it will accept an AFR sensor either

roplusbee 08-30-2013 08:46 PM

I have Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and Boost on my A-Pillar. All that I need to know if something is going wrong (or has already gone wrong). Kicked around the idea of EGT, but I can't ready justify it.

Driftomodachi 08-30-2013 09:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Driftomodachi (Post 2468306)

I would go with this gauge using Boost, Oil Press, Fuel Press, Water Temp and EGT. The gauge has alerts if anything goes out of parameter. Mount it flush in the navi bin along side an innovate wideband gauge.

Rooskey 08-31-2013 12:24 AM

Oil pressure, motor temp, and volt meter. Add a boost gauge to your column. You need a volt meter to make sure your car is producing enough volts to produce enough spark for your ignition system. Especially with a blower. If you have a big stereo it will draw alot of amps and take away from your ignition system (causing detonation).

1slow370 08-31-2013 02:59 AM

low voltage causes misfire not detonation from weak ignition, but more importantly it reduces fuel pump output and increases injector latency and reduces pulse width which could lean your motor and cause a boom, and for this reason fuel pressure and AFR are more important than voltage (which came about from the carb era racing with no battery, or crappy batteries and crummy generators yes it is more important then).

Oil temperature tells you if your oil is still thick enough, oil pressure tells you how well you are actually oiling your motor, since the oil light on the Z doesn't come on until after you've looked in your mirror to notice a streak of oil being shot out of your oil cooler behind you i would venture to say the pressure gauge is more important (not to mention the ecu will limp if your temps get to high but it wont if it suffers oil pressure loss).

Fuel pressure will tell you when you run out of pump, but afr will too (and soooo much more), so i would take the afr over the fuel pressure.

If you have an afr gauge you don't need the egt on anything other than a turbo car and even then it is more about placing it near the turbine inlet, so you can monitor the turbo to prevent cooking it while running, or coking it after shutting it off. AFR trumps EGT while driving, EGT is mainly used while tuning a car and after that it is mostly ignored.

Coolant temp is important and it sucks that the factory gauge sucks so bad, i swear the middle dot has got to have a 50 degree range to the next dot.

If you think you need fuel temperature, make sure to get it in a combo gauge with an altimeter and a barometer so you can monitor how light-headed and high you are. Boost is good to check your boost maker and cuz biches.

A knock light is a GREAT thing to have and you can just poke a hole somewhere for it, but the ecu will try to save you when the ish goes down.

IMO the list would go AFR, boost, oil pressure, coolant temp, fuel pressure, oil temp, voltage, EGT(unless it's turbo then slip this in between coolant temp and fuel). I use that list for buying gauges and order how to place them based on best visibility to least, then clock them all so that while running at the track all the needles point in one direction so i don't actually have to read them cuz it's a waste of focus, just have to notice one isn't pointed in the right direction.

Sub-note: Most people should just buy some gauges that look pretty and do a number on the biches, as you won't be reading most of the time(i don't) or understanding them anyway past coming on here and starting threads like "is 211degrees too hot for coolant temps?" There are gauges a tuner needs and then there are gauges YOU need.

roplusbee 09-01-2013 01:51 PM

I like the sub note!

Chuck33079 09-01-2013 02:29 PM

Top three gauges to have in a boosted car?
 
I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking.

roplusbee 09-01-2013 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079 (Post 2469823)
I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking.

So for those of us that have unmodified 20Gs, we just have to ensure that we run a cooldown phase before shutdown. If I could have installed a turbo timer without the wiring nightmare, I would have lol.

Chuck, what do you use for electronic gauge output (not physical gauges)? I just can't do the Camp II. I would rather run 3 on my pillar and replace the 3 in the stock location.

Chuck33079 09-01-2013 05:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roplusbee (Post 2469950)
So for those of us that have unmodified 20Gs, we just have to ensure that we run a cooldown phase before shutdown. If I could have installed a turbo timer without the wiring nightmare, I would have lol.

Chuck, what do you use for electronic gauge output (not physical gauges)? I just can't do the Camp II. I would rather run 3 on my pillar and replace the 3 in the stock location.

At the moment I'm just running boost and AFR on the a pillar. I haven't decided how to handle the rest.

roplusbee 09-01-2013 06:00 PM

Chuck:

I feel your pain. I should have all this sorted out once it is time to end the motor off for forged internals.


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