I like the sub note!

Top three gauges to have in a boosted car?
 

I'm on board with pretty much all of that. The only thing is do differently is put the temp probe for EGT in the exhaust manifold. I want to see if I'm about to melt a valve. I'm not concerned as much with the turbos, since they're water cooled in addition to oil cooled, and modern synthetics don't have nearly as much of a risk of coking.

So for those of us that have unmodified 20Gs, we just have to ensure that we run a cooldown phase before shutdown. If I could have installed a turbo timer without the wiring nightmare, I would have lol.

Chuck, what do you use for electronic gauge output (not physical gauges)? I just can't do the Camp II. I would rather run 3 on my pillar and replace the 3 in the stock location.

At the moment I'm just running boost and AFR on the a pillar. I haven't decided how to handle the rest.

Chuck:

I feel your pain. I should have all this sorted out once it is time to end the motor off for forged internals.

I'm not FI but this could give u and idea as well. I run a racepak iq3 dash, not cheap and sensors etc is $$$ but bad *** dash! And datalogger and lap timer!!

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My priority:
1) oil pressure (this is the absolute most important gauge for a performance car and the Z34 don't come w/one stock! LOL!)
2) B00000st (duh! Of coarse logging the OEM MAP sensor is also a good idea. OEM turbo cars usually have these on the IM)
3) EGT (if you got a v-block I would recommend at least two, one for ea bank)
4) oil temp (if you have this, no need for a "turbo timer" since you can just watch your oil temp drop while parked)
5) water temp
6) fuel pressure

A/F ratio:confused: Why would you want to watch a gauge needle bounce back and forth wildly, or numbers scramble if digital, while driving? Its only gonna hold still on WOT runs and there's no way you're gonna be watching that when you gotta keep your eye on the rd and tach. A/F ratio is only important to me when I'm street tuning / datalogg'n WOT.

well the car is mostly likely to pop under wot, so the afr actually works pretty good, realistically your not gonna be watching it every time you go wide open but its there so you can check it every now and then like coming on to a straight just to make sure the little green lights are lit not the yellow or red ones. and even if you have an oil temp gauge you could still use a turbo timer as the oil temp isn't going to tell you if the turbo is stupid hot an egt would but oil temp wont coking is when you shut the car off and only a small amount of oil is left in the cartridge so even if your oil temp is telling you 180 and youre turbo is 700 degrees when the oil stops it cokes. little oil actually flows through the turbo compared to the rest of the motor so the oil temp does not indicate the turbo's temp. and considering that the z's oem map sensor cant be changed out, and is only a 1 bar logging it wont help.

Also the best place for the water temp is in the head so you know if you are losing a head gasket or running out of coolant.

Edit: also the best AFR gauges are ones with the warning light so you can set an afr and just put that light in your peripheral vision and make sure the light is out when you're gunning it. In fact gauges with programmable warning lights are really the only way to go.

also who looks at their tach we have ears and programmable shift lights for a reason

The three I ran on my Vortech YSI supercharged car was

Boost (in cluster) won't count that one

A/F
Fuel pressure
Shift light

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