I will look, I would think that a low oil flow would have destroy the SC.

Rotrex wants the belt changed and a smoke test for leaks after that.

The belt is old, my SC makes a high pitch whistle, I always though it was intake noise, I hope it is just a belt. Autozone will have one here tomorrow.

Inspected the belt, cracked, dusty and looks like it may be at the limit of the tensioner. So I stoppeed at Autozone and sprayed the belt with dressing. Boost now seems constant 3 lbs at 3K. It was raining and the racelogic had its hand full. Will test more this weekend with the new belt. If I hit over 10PSI I'll call it good.

Installed new belt, it is a 1045K7, GTM spec.

It looks longer than the one I pulled off. Belt wear indicator is not in range.

I had no squeal fro the first 20 seconds and then it came back. I think my belt is too long.

What a pain to change...

Now looking for a 1040 or 1035.

In my experience, it's really hard to find a 7PKXXXX belt if you need a non-standard length.

I ended up going with a 6PK (6 rib rather than 7) and it works fine.

Here's a 6PK1035 Amazon.com: Bando 6PK1035 OEM Quality Serpentine Belt: Automotive

What pulley are you running?

Underdrive crank pulley?

I can find 1040K7 and 1030K7, but no 1035K7 is this the one I need with a standard crank and the small GTM pulley or will the 1040K7 be short enough? 1045K7 looks long.

What is the difference from the 7PKXXXX and the XXXXK7 belts?

Did not work, as soon as SC fluid got up to temp boost fell off 6 PSI max and starts to build after 4K (1.5 to 2 PSI) and you have to twist past 6K to get to 6 PSI.

When the fluid is cold I build boost at 3 PSI at 2-3K...

Worked good 75F OAT for 45 min, 60-70 MPH. As soon as I hit city stop and go oil got to hot and boost fell off.


I am going to work on adding airflow to the coolers fan system.


Note: the under hood temp will burn you on any item you touch. The SC fluid in the tank is 155-160F (after a 1.5 hour heat soak drive and a 15 min cool down)
I took me 15 min to find my thermometer.

During the 15 min cool down the oil temp fell from 220 to 190F. If the SC fluid fell the same amount, my max temp is 185-190F is over the rotrex 175F limit.

Just got back home and spent the last 10 hours changing my SC unit. Fluid looked BAD milk/gray. Hope this fixes the boost falloff problem.

Then I can start back on this!

http://www.the370z.com/members/pokey...7-pict0010.jpg

How many miles on the SC?

15K on my car, but I bought it used from a 370z member/vendor and it was bad when he sold it to me. I took me 18 month to find out what was wrong.

I would have saved $2K if I had just bought a new one from GTM!. I was not trying to save the money, I was trying to help a member out.


No good dead goes unpunished!

I don't know if anyone is following this but the SC change did not fix it. But today I started looking at the "tune" as the car ran fin as a Stage 1 and never as a Stage 1.5 and after looking for hours I found the problem?


See the highlighted line, is is set to "off" in the 1.0 tune and "on in the 1.5

I understand that all 3 of the codes in this frame need to be set to off (FI cars) or you will get a "LIMP MODE" AKA missing boost as the throttle is 20% MAX

http://www.the370z.com/members/pokey...74308-tune.jpg

Fixed

After a new BOV, belt change Pulley change, Supercharger change, leak test and many other things. It was the tune. Thanks for all the help.

Thank you for sharing your progress.