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So Just got text message from manager. Dear Customer, Ed said does he want to replace the oil pump? as it is a new engine, I also found corrosion inside,

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Old 08-05-2013, 01:58 PM   #76 (permalink)
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So Just got text message from manager.

Quote:
Dear Customer, Ed said does he want to replace the oil pump? as it is a new engine, I also found corrosion inside, electrolysis problem, bad coolant, or bad earth wire somewhere.
So I call to get more info, anyways.

Ed is the mechanic for those who is wondering.

Since there was bad coolant he said the oil pump should be weaker than normal and its recommended to replace it.

As for wires and electrolysis problem. Im not sure, I never installed any electronics on my car. Ed said that the turbo kit installer messed the wires up when he was installing the engine back then ..

Everything is being smooth really. Im glad that they found problems that i was not aware off which is a huge bonus for me.
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Old 08-05-2013, 04:06 PM   #77 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
For all those who build the engine, which method you used to break in the engine?

There are over thousands of threads about break in the engine and each one use different method.

I came across this method which seems quite interesting..


Source: Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I would love to follow these steps but the problem is I also have to break in the stage 4 transmission which i dont think its a good idea to run it hard because its its not what GTM said on their manual lol

Your suggestions will be appreciated

They way I broke my motor in was on first start up let it run for about 20 min at around 2k rpms. Once I was done with I changed the oil at 200 miles 500 miles then 1000 miles. During that time I would let the car go no higher than 5000-6000 rpm's let it decel down on there own. I did not floor it once during this process but did let my car see light boost.

1 year later car is still running strong knock on wood.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:14 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
So Just got text message from manager.


So I call to get more info, anyways.

Ed is the mechanic for those who is wondering.

Since there was bad coolant he said the oil pump should be weaker than normal and its recommended to replace it.

As for wires and electrolysis problem. Im not sure, I never installed any electronics on my car. Ed said that the turbo kit installer messed the wires up when he was installing the engine back then ..

Everything is being smooth really. Im glad that they found problems that i was not aware off which is a huge bonus for me.
It's probably a good idea to replace the oil pump with a new OEM one. The water pump wouldn't be a bad idea either. Make sure it's branded with Nissan. You don't want to get one of those aftermarket ones that are "OEM Like". I have seen them fail right off the bat.
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Old 08-05-2013, 10:45 PM   #79 (permalink)
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The Nismo oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea, especially if you plan on spinning that motor any higher than stock.
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Old 08-06-2013, 01:23 AM   #80 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Staples View Post
It's probably a good idea to replace the oil pump with a new OEM one. The water pump wouldn't be a bad idea either. Make sure it's branded with Nissan. You don't want to get one of those aftermarket ones that are "OEM Like". I have seen them fail right off the bat.
Of course its Nissan branded.
I actually never thought of water pump too, thank you for your suggestion!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chuck33079 View Post
The Nismo oil pump wouldn't be a bad idea, especially if you plan on spinning that motor any higher than stock.
Ah Nismo motorsport oil pump, who said I was not interested in it before I send the car for surgery? I wanted to order that pump but it takes 4-6 weeks for Nismo USA to get it from Japan as its special order this will just delay my whole project so i was like screw this lets just start
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Old 08-06-2013, 02:29 AM   #81 (permalink)
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Little history

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Originally Posted by Mr.Squeeze View Post
No problem man glad to see you going forward with the project


I really think you should upgrade your housings to reach your goal of 600 whp on high boost with 9:5 CR. With the lower compression it's going to take more boost to make 500 plus WHP and to reach 600 WHP I think the turbos will run out of steam and hit a wall. I say this because two car's I know of that are local and built motor TT have yet to hit 600 whp .

Your in Dubai it's hot you don't want to push the turbos to the limit and blow hot air into the engine your better off making more efficient power with bigger housings.
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
You really made me consider going for stage 2 housing and called Sam (As i said in OP "your suggestion will be written on my todo list" ) he said that I dont need the stage 2 housing for my goal. Remember that I have 3" downpipe w/ external wastegate + 3" exhaust system.

He said he will post something here soon with details about turbos and etc
Yesterday I had an interesting chat with Mike@GTM regarding the stage two housing and I finally asked for quotation of how much it will cost me overall.

Here what he sent after we close the phone.
Quote:
They are readily available and we can be ready to ship within a few days. That said, since the Stage 2 housings are different, it changes the distance for the recirculating pipes. That means you will need different recirculating pipes specific for the Stage 2 turbos. Right now, you have the ones specific to the Stage 1 turbos and they will not fit. I also checked on these and we have them in stock.
Well.. looks like a great excuse to stay on stage one now
For the price of new recirculating pipes + T25 housing, I prefer to stay on my current setup and just wait and pay a little bit more for T25 Plus housing (If i was not satisfied with the power after everything is done)
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Old 08-06-2013, 03:38 AM   #82 (permalink)
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Aaaah so that's where you've been! Great build man.

Did you end up sticking with one fuel pump?
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Old 08-07-2013, 09:25 AM   #83 (permalink)
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Update:

Engine was opened few days ago and cleaning process started since then.

I almost thought they got me new head LOL


After few days of cleaning there they still cleaning some parts






Nissan manual says the VEL actuator must be replaced if the engine is opened.. I never heard people reporting about it. I was wondering if build engine owners replaced the VVEL actuator?
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
Update:

Engine was opened few days ago and cleaning process started since then.

I almost thought they got me new head LOL


After few days of cleaning there they still cleaning some parts






Nissan manual says the VEL actuator must be replaced if the engine is opened.. I never heard people reporting about it. I was wondering if build engine owners replaced the VVEL actuator?
I have seen guys do both. Hopefully someone with a built motor will chime in.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:22 PM   #85 (permalink)
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If I remember correctly one of the 2 gale mentioned said he bought a new vvel actuator but then was told he could have re-used the same one.

Squeeze should be able to give u a better answer.
They r quite expensive.
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Old 08-07-2013, 08:29 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Even Kyle@IPP said he doesnt see why it should be replaced.

But its written on manual and i think there is a secret reason for that, I mean if they can be reused like all other parts but Nissan want money, they could have said you need to replace the springs, lash caps, chains, endless list etc etc, but none of them was mentioned not even the head gasket except VEL actuators.

I got a quote of $515 each side
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:45 AM   #87 (permalink)
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Oil Pump & Water pump came in
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Old 08-08-2013, 05:30 AM   #88 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by G37sHKS View Post
Even Kyle@IPP said he doesnt see why it should be replaced.

But its written on manual and i think there is a secret reason for that, I mean if they can be reused like all other parts but Nissan want money, they could have said you need to replace the springs, lash caps, chains, endless list etc etc, but none of them was mentioned not even the head gasket except VEL actuators.

I got a quote of $515 each side
Don't waste your money.


When I was building my engine I came across this same situation, I spoke to Sam and he told me I did not have to buy new ones. I took is advice and reused mine not a single problem.

esfourteen is another who has a build motor that live in my area and he didn't buy news ones either.
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:35 AM   #89 (permalink)
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This guy changed his vvel controllers
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Old 08-08-2013, 08:37 AM   #90 (permalink)
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Coop is local to he wasted his money doing so.


A good machine shop shouldn't have a problem putting it back together.
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