Heat issues going with FI
 

Got my order in on GTM's new TT and was wondering if it would be better to go with (2) 34 row oil coolers instead of a radiator and a 34 row cooler? Seems every time my oil temp gets near 220 I glance over and the water temp is just fine. A good oil cooler and a good radiator go for about the same price. Space may be a consideration with two oil coolers...I don't know. I live in FL and the heat f-ing sucks. Would I have to pitch the stock oil cooler either way?

spal fans, radiator upgrade, And a good oil cooler will do the job. Even if its as hot as where i am 130f weather, i wrote a thread abt it some where. Hope this helps.

I'm gonna use your thread for my question...
My CSF radiator doesn't work with the twin supercharged kit. GTM's radiator and fan kit does. I want to run my car hard whenever I want. Is the stock radiator good enough to handle the heat of Las Vegas and the superchargers? I have the oil cooler, just need to know water temps.

Your CSF radiator with stock fans will work.
GTM radiator and fans are thicker go figure.

It doesn't fit with the twin supercharger kit. That's my problem

"Next, the CSF radiator will not work since the water neck is a one piece setup whereas the stock radiator is a two piece setup. That means the water neck on the CSF radiator will interfere with the supercharger on the passenger side. We have a special elbow that replaces the stock elbow to give clearance between the water neck and the supercharger. Since the CSF is a one piece elbow, we can't use our elbow. Also, we use different radiator hoses to clear the supercharger brackets, belts and pulleys so your silicone radiator hoses won't work either."

You shouldn't have a issue with over heating b/c Uprev has the fan control and you can put the 3 stage fan on any percent you want and at any temp you want,I know you are thinking of the other SW if they have fan control too then you're set.

I'm planning on playing with the car at Spring Mountain, LVMS, and some tracks in Cali. I won't just be cruising around. I really need to be 100% because it will run me $2600 with labor for the GTM radiator and SPAL kit, a couple hundred less for the normal fans.

You don't have to ditch the stock cooler. Others have paired it up with an aftermarket sandwich plate. One thing I suggest since I don't see everyone doing it or talking about it is heat wrap everything! The down pipes, mid pipe, IC pipes etc. they all need to have the heat kept in or out to keep temps down. I'd think a 34 cooler would be fine.

For what purpose will you be using the car besides just being in FL? If that's it I'd get a radiator and one oil cooler. Remember the new oil pan for this kit is 3qts bigger.

It gonna be a DD

Don't bother with a radiator on a street only car, you'll never see a difference other than your bank account.

Going from a 15mm core (stock) to a 30mm (CSF) I think it is a safe buy especially when you live in places like Texas,Georgia,California well you get the point.

Disregard my question, I upgraded my cooling system. To the OP, at the most, a CSF and 34 row... At the very least? Get yourself a 34 row oil cooler and turn those fans on early. The GTM radiator is overkill if you aren't going to drive it hard.

Over 30,000 miles at 500-600rwhp daily driven including over 100 degree humid days.. My car couldn't agree less. 90% of people will drive their car easier than I drive mine. Without anything inherently causing water temps to climb, there is no reason the car will run hotter. The intercooler in front alone is not enough to overheat the car. So during the 99% of the time you aren't flooring it, there is no chance of overheating. When you do floor it, in a street car, it's very short lived in comparison to a track car where any time not braking is full throttle. Even doing back to back highway pulls I've had no problem. A street car doesn't have the room to stretch its legs to saturate the cooling system before there is a chance for it to shed any climb.

I tried to post this earlier but my browser crashed (at work).

I live in Tampa, the only problems I have ever had with heat is the A/c blowing warm in 90+ degrees in bumper to bumper traffic. I do not drive the car hard but do floor it from time to time. You cant get to silly with this much power on the street or your asking for trouble in its various forms.

I only have a 34 row oil cooler and I have never seen over 230 temps. Actually in 70 or below weather I have trouble even getting the car up to operating temps. I have to drive a gear lower than I should be to keep the car wound up a little more creating more heat.

I do not want to add in a chance for more leaks with a thermostat and have been to lazy to make a block off plate, but you will need one here when its chilly/cold out.

Besides, a radiator swap is quick and easy. Don't take my word for it, just see for yourself if you are ever able to get your water temps to climb. If you experience a climb during in your environment and driving style, swap it then

Definitely just some spirited driving through third gear. Will take a few trips down the quarter but that's it.

To add to what the others have mentioned, the oil cooler and heat wrap are the more effective cooling measures. As was stated earlier, someone posted that the CSF radiator won't work withe the GTM twin sc kit (I wouldn't know anything about that though).

I too have a 34 row oil cooler (non-thermostatic), a CSF radiator, and a plethora of heat wrap. For the record, I got tuned at UPREV (for the second time) and they added the fan control. I am also in Texas. Last one is the doosie..........I am running the Greddy TT Kit with oil cooled turbos and I don't have any issues with overheating. Take it for what it's worth.

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If you oil overheats at low speeds and daily driving, then you're better off with an oil cooler fan.

For most people this might apply but for me this didn't. The way I drive my car is hard even on the street and my water temp use to get up there. Also with traffic sometimes with my car my water temp would raise slightly.

To what extent would it climb, and did it ever get out of control and not come back down easily?

In traffic it would'nt be to bad maybe a notch or two over the middle using the factory gauge. Now while out having some fun with some other cars it has gotten to the point of almost over heating. Since I have changed to the CSF radiator I have not had any of these issues, this is something I should have done from the get go with a built engine.

That's wild... Never come across anything even close to that in both stop and go traffic and back to back highway pulls. There's no harm done in waiting to see if its needed, the install is pretty quick. I would say it depends on what you're looking at spending. Someone mentioned $2500 for a radiator and fans, that is pretty intense and definitely something I wouldn't consider jumping on. But the Koyo for like $400 I guess I would consider a "why not" mod if you're already spending a ton and some people have issue. But ya, my car doesn't even come close to what you're describing.

Now I do agree $2500 for fans and radiator is a pretty hefty price tag and is something I would hesitate to do,and would only do if really necessary.

I'm out logging with the Osiris right now to see if there's anything going on that I don't see with the stock gauge. But it's only like 82 maybe today.. Humid tho!

Cool Charles :tup:

What's the best way to contact you? I just tried sending you a PM but your box is full. I want to talk to you about your twin pump setup I am running.

Sorry I keep forgetting to renew my sponsorship which allows like 500 times as many PMs and I never clear them.

My AC used to trip in stop and go traffic, but after the UPREV fan control mod..............not anymore. Back to back runs on the Dragon were not a problem either. If that isn't spirited driving, I don't know what is. There is no road course within an hour of my location or I would go run 3-5 hot laps and let you know what I am getting. But driving it like I stole it is the way it want's to be driven!

Charles:

I may need to look into your fuel system mods. I randomly loose fuel pressure (not enough to have to shut down) after long road trips or spirited sessions (I am talking hours). Should I email you, call, or shoot a PM?

Done I sent you one earlier today.

Two 34 row oil coolers will be overkill.
I agree with others a radiator upgrade might not be needed. I did mine because Texas heat was killing my water temps in the summer & Uprev did not have fan control years ago. Now with fan control, newer fans you probably will not have a problem with the stock radiator.

But the best thing to do anyways is to find a way to monitor your car more detailed then that horrible gauge on the left. Being able to see the actual temp in degrees is huge and will give you a better idea of what is happening with your car.

We had some extreme temps last year, and my water temps hit the extreme zone a few times. Oil temps pegged 260F as well. This was just normal every day driving. Plus, this car (FI or NA) doesn't like to be left idling in direct sunlight with ambient temps above 100F either.

I've not had any issues this year, but ambient temps did hit 100F on a couple of days. I've not seen the water temps exceed the usual mark. Oil temps average 205-210F peak. I've only seen it hit 220F after doing some hard runs. Other than that, it's pretty good. Only difference is that the system was burped again the past 6 months, which may have helped. I still hear some bubbling in the heater core at times, though.

BTW, any of you used water wetter? I know nothing is guaranteed, but I wouldn't mind it helping a tiny bit. I've got some Redline over the weekend.

I almost bought a bottle of it, but I find reviews to be 50/50 so not sure if it is worth doing.
I have heard a few people say to use a blend of the OEM stuff & distilled water.

It's only $10. As long as it doesn't do harm like rust stuff, destroy turbos, etc., I wouldn't mind trying haha. Sorta like the Chevron Techron. I tried it once. So far my car is still running.

I run WW and water in my Z.

Just the WW added to the OEM fill helped a little, 3-4 degrees in normal use. The effect is a lot more dramatic with straight water.

Reducing your coolant mix to ~15% antifreeze (and thus raising your freeze temp to around 10-15 degrees F, so if you live in Fargo or something, probably not something you want to do) and adding WW will make a dramatic difference.

Minus the removal of antifreeze from the system and its plus & minuses for a daily driven car. Are there any potential negatives from running more water into the system? Need to dump the fluid more often and refill or anything?

Not if you run distilled.

I've heard mixed opinions on whether or not you need to run distilled if you are running zero antifreeze, as apparently the minerals in the water mostly affect the antifreeze itself, causing it to goop up and exacerbate sediment formation.

I'll admit, I'm running hose water. If I put a thousand miles on the car this year, I'll be surprised, so I'm really not worried about it. I'll be dumping the coolant regularly enough that it won't be a big deal, I'm fairly sure.

Email or call/text any time!

Ah crap I typoed on you. xxx-xxx-xxxx

Editing original post. Sorry about that...that's what I get for posting from cell phone