If I can't fully pay for mine, or be in a position where I'm financially comfortable paying for mine then I'll switch you spots :tiphat:
I want this kit so bad but I'm getting hit so bad with bills :shakes head:
Plus my mom has been loaded with chemo therapy bills and is stressing over that so I want to make sure she is doing alright before I take care of myself.

I will have this kit sooner or later! Hopefully its soon :stirthepot:

^ Gotta take care of your responsibilities first and foremost. I hope your mom does well we lost my father in law a couple of years back to cancer and at the same time we had a scare on my mother in law too but we caught hers in time. Anyway family first I always say and the rest will fall into place when ready.

I am going to be ordering materials for 15 kits. From experience, not everybody goes through with stuff like this. Things in life come up, and other priorities take precedence over a turbo kit. That is just how it is, and I understand that.

As for payment, I hope to start taking deposits mid May, but again, please remember that this is a lot of work, and it all has to be done right. If it takes longer, it is for the good of the customer, because I would not ship a turbo kit to a customer unless it is good enough (or better) to put on my own car.

Spoken like a true perfectionist! Sasha I hate to beat a dead horse but in a baseball figure range how long after can we expect the total kit to have been shipped?

I ask because I would like to make it to some car meets and HIN this summer.

I honestly can't say for sure to be honest. There is a one week management course I have to take first week of May, and it is out of town. So a whole week is gone right there...bad timing.

I am really hoping to have a few kits ready by the end of may. Since I have increased the number of kits being built, I may split this in to two batches. One after the other, not taking any other work on between the two production runs.

Large volume production/supply means "Made in China"...not the case here guys.

She just beat it a couple months ago but now shes stuck with all sorts of bills! Its insane how expensive that stuff can get. I'm 100% sure I want this kit. I would like to make a deposit so that my kit is held untill I can pay for the rest. I just need to be financially comfortable to do so.

Just a couple of pics I took today:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...pse1dc672c.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps7663496b.jpg

Ran out of T4 twin scroll flanges, there are 6 on order.

Drove my Z to work today, 130km round trip. Not one issue. Ran perfectly.

It's like driving an automotive symphony. Videos will be forthcoming but tuning is first priority. I'll see if I can sneak a video recorder into R/T Tuning for some dyno runs.

Im hoping/planning efficiently to purchase this kit March to April of next year. Until then it looks like there will be plenty of customers to make videos for me to watch and drool over lol.

As always im very impressed with your work and transparency Sasha!

Glad to hear that...it is good to see that there is future demand for these.

As far as transparency goes, it is how I have always done business. There is nothing to hide.
I also value the feedback that is provided by the customers on these (and all other) kits. If there is something that could be changed, made better I am all ears. I know one customer mentioned that the manifold exhaust flanges were warped a bit due to welding/heat. As a result I have now gone to a steel ½” thick (vs 3/8” stainless) T4 flange. So it is thicker and made out of material that is less prone to warping when welded. The welding is also done in stages to allow the entire flange to heat up more evenly.

The welding process on the 3-bolt flanges (header) has also been changed and further steps are being taken to eliminate the chance of (slight) flange deflection.

These are small things, but in the end will result in you guys having a simple flawless forced induction solution for this platform.

This is one of the main reasons I have wanted to purchase a kit from you. I have followed the construction of your kits since the winter build thread on the 350z forum. I love that you arent too stubborn to realize if your design has a flaw, and that you address the flaw, find a solution to it, and share with everyone why and how. That is a practice that is rarely seen in aftermarket parts makers these days.

I know that when I buy this kit (its only a matter of time :tup: ), if there are any issues, you will bend over backwards to help resolve them. Im going to stop there before I :nutswinger: too much lol.

Would you be able to put 1000hp+ on this kit with a fully built motor if you wanted to? What would the max RWHP be for this kit?

Very cool to see those little changes being made! Mine is still running like a top!

Hehe... mine just got built. :happydance:

No there would be no way to make that kind of power with this kit and the two turbo options I currently offer. Some have tried with their top of the line TT's and failed due to a lack of understanding of fluid dynamics. Exhaust flow being a huge factor.



The only kit on the market today that I think is capable of that kind of power is the F.I twin turbo. It is very well built, uses the latest/best turbos that are large enough to flow for that kind of power. Again flow is key here.


At the same time the turbos that I use share the same technology (billet compressor wheels) as the F.I twin turbo kit. These (both F.I kit and my turbos) are the latest in billet wheel turbo technology allowing much better performance than what competition (old technology cast compressor wheels) is offering, unless you pay extra to get the good stuff. The other thing with the F.I turbo kit is that they offer the V-band style turbine housings that are properly sized (in a twin configuration) for this kind of power. These are much more suited for this engine, and again superior to the T25 turbine housings that have been around for a while already. The exhaust manifolds are also very well built, with a proper external wastegate configuration. All of these will play a role when you are trying to make that kind of power.


As for the twin scroll single turbo kit, I am confident that with proper fuel support and E85 fuel 700whp-750whp should be a realistic estimate. The turbo for this goal should be the 6766 T4 with a 1.32 a/r turbine, rated at 935HP by the manufacturer. With the 350z my customers have made 650whp/580ft/tq on pump gas (93 octane) with the smaller 62mm turbo (rated at 735HP) and smaller turbine housing. So the larger turbo and E85 fuel should get the job done.




Please note that those are WHP numbers and not CHP numbers. I know that some other manufacturers use CHP numbers, so please take note when comparing.


You have mail :).

Lol...I think it is important to listen to what people have to say. This is the only way a great product can get even better. BTW, I am very stubborn...but at the same time recognize that somebody has a valid point/concern.



No there would be no way to make that kind of power with this kit. Some have tried with their top of the line TT's (advertised hard too) and failed miserably due to a lack of understanding of fluid dynamics.



The only kit on the market today that is capable of that kind of power is the F.I twin turbo. It is very well built, uses the latest/best turbos that are large enough to flow for that kind of power. This is key (flow).


At the same time the turbos that I use share the same technology (billet compressor wheels) as the F.I twin turbo kit. These (both F.I kit and my turbos) are the latest in billet wheel turbo technology allowing much better performance than what competition can offer (unless you are paying extra). The other thing with the F.I turbo kit is that they offer the V-band style turbine housings that are properly sized (in a twin configuration) for this kind of power. These are much more suited for this engine, and again superior to the T25 turbine housings that have been around for a while already. The exhaust manifolds are also very well built, with a proper external wastegate configuration. All of these will play a role when you are trying to make that kind of power.


As for the twin scroll single turbo kit, I am confident that with proper fuel support and E85 fuel 700whp-750whp would be no problem at all (perhaps a conservative estimate). The turbo for this goal should be the 6766 T4 with a 1.32 a/r turbine, rated at 935HP by the manufacturer. With the 350z my customers have made 650whp/580ft/tq on pump gas (93 octane) with the smaller 62mm turbo (rated at 735HP)with a smaller turbine housing. So the larger turbo and E85 fuel should get the job done.




Please note that those are WHP numbers and not CHP numbers. I know that some other manufacturers use CHP numbers, so please take note when comparing.


You have mail :).

^^^^Truth.

Sasha is one of a handful of vendors that stand behind their product. Highly recommended.

Thank you for clarifying Sasha. Also, when you're talking about HP, is the turbo rated for 935WHP or it can handle up to 935hp crank, maybe resulting in 775-800rwhp after drivetrain lose (just an example)
Whenever I see numbers tossed around and see a turbo is rated for XXX amount of HP, I dont understand what manufacturers mean by that.

The HP rating has a lot to do with the turbine size. For example, the 67mm billet compressor turbo will flow 93lbs/min of air. That is as much as twos GT2871 turbos (common with a twin kit).

However, what some don't realize is that all this air/volume the compressor pushes out has to go through the turbine as well. Not only that, but it has to go through it at much higher temperature due to the addition of fuel during combustion. This is why the maximum power potential of a turbo should always be looked at and combined with the largest turbine available for that turbo.

The 6766 has made 800whp on the 2JZ in the past, so I think it is safe to say that 700whp is achievable on the 3.7L VQ. Of course, real world testing would be the best way to find out what the maximum power output would be with this turbo. To do this properly, a bung would be welded on to the manifold, before the turbo (turbine) inlet so that exhaust back pressure can be monitored.

The exhaust pressure before the turbo should never exceed the 2:1 ratio to boost.

So if you are going to run 20psi of boost pressure, the exhaust pressure before the turbine (not the down pipe/exhaust) should not go over 40psi (less is better/more efficient).

I posted dyno numbers in my thread and later thought people would like to see them in this thread as well. Here are the official Dyno numbers from my car with the Boosted Performance twin scroll mid mount turbo kit.

Official numbers,

521.99 whp
476.49 torque
11.54 lbs boost

I will post up the dyno graph once we get back to Canada.

Sasha, thanks for the great kit and the excellent customer service! Also thanks to the guys at R/T Tuning for the great tune and hospitality.

Gooooooooooo. Did R/T feel comfortable with those torque and boost numbers on the stock block? Congrats dude!

Yea I was gonna say that's alot of timing to make that trq..... Race fuel ?

Need to update your profile brother...
"Drives: a Zleeper"
to:
"Drives: a MonZter"

Numbers are redonk, grats man, looks like that housing paid dividends. This damned kit is getting better and better. Grats to Sasha as well!!

Great results Jason and congrats again, now enjoy it...and you are welcome.





Thanks.

On the numbers...as I have mentioned before, it is largely up to the tuner. They will go as far as they feel is safe. Each tuner will have a different personal opinion/idea on what a safe number is for each setup (some kits are more efficient than others). They will tune the car for optimal performance, keeping safety and longevity as top priority.

In the end, as long as it is a clean pull (no knock, and good a/f ratios) you should be good to go. The torque curve is also something to look at as some tuners will "ease" in to it and other will be more aggressive as boost comes up (torque shoots straight up).

These are small things, and this is why it is always best to look at the dyno sheets from a customer rather than from the shop that actually builds/sells the kit. I have seen shops post crazy numbers on one kit, and then customers go out and fall 25% short on what the manufacturer advertises. Not a good way to do business IMO.

But then again, to some the bottom line is the price so in the end you get what you pay for. It is easy for a manufacturer to make a product look better than it really is, but then you have to answer the “why can’t I duplicate these results” type questions. Thanks, but no thanks. I interact with all of my customers though PM’s an email about a lot of things, but would not want to be in the position where I have to answer that question.

For the record 93 octane was used to achieve these numbers. I don't need to waste my time with race fuel when I'm not going to use it.

Before the tuning started Vince asked what I wanted as a result for the tuning. I said anything over 500hp would be good to me as long as if he thought it could be achieved safely.

I will post the dyno sheet next week.

My dyno sheet. 93 octane.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/...5e1f4abe_c.jpg

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you use the boost controller?

We did use the boost controller. High boost is with the boost controller and the low boost is just waste gate springs.

Just to touch on that....


I will be doing a test on the next local dyno tune comming up in a couple of weeks here to figure this boost thing out.

I have done a lot of research, and it seems that the 1.32 a/r housing may just be optimal for these engines in the high RPM's. The dyno Gale posted is with the 1.15 a/r housing, and it still spools VERY fast. Because it does spool so fast, the turbine may still be a bit of a restriction in the upper RPM's. It makes perfect sense, but needs to be proven. To do this, I will log the EBP (exhaust back pressure) on the identical housing for a local tune with the 1.15 a/r housing. This is the exhaust pressure just before the turbine housing inlet (not after the turbo). This will give me (and I will share this as I do everything) a solid idea of what is going on, and if a larger turbine is indeed the way to go. This was my suspicion with with the 1.0 a/r housing, hence the upgrade in size. It did not work out as I had anticipated.


This engine is very efficient, and flows so well (and a lot) in the 6,000 to 8,000rpm that these (smaller) turbines may be a bit of a restriction. I have spend a lot of time trying to figure this out. I have also talked to a couple of shops that run these turbos on stroked 2JZ's, and they are making 700whp with these turbos and the 1.15 a/r housings. The guys are also saying that they would not even think about going to the 1.32 a/r housings as they are "for V8's". I am starting to think that the 370z engine at 7,500rpm flows a lot more than a V8 at 5,000rpm (for example). I also have a customer making 580whp with the identical twin scroll kit on a 350z, and the boost is solid from 3,500rpm to 7,000rpm on a 350z. But then again, on the VQ35, there is no point of going any higher with the RPM's, and there is a 200cc displacement difference.



It seems like the boost holds just fine up to about 6,500rpm, and then falls a bit after that. I am not sure why the EBC is unable to hold the boost steady/flat. I will get to the bottom of it, and as mentioned will report back.

I have the same problem holding full boost to redline... Up towards the top it'll start droppin a little under 11 psi.

Great numbers Gale. Sure must be a blast to drive now!

What kit, or I should ask what turbine housing?

Stage 2 Gtm, .86

I think it is common, it's just that nobody posts dyno charts with the boost curve. Or at least it is very uncommon.

What was the controller set at?

It's common, just don't think anyone has figured out how to hold it steady to redline. My chart is posted in the sticky FI finished builds. But no boost chart jus hp/tq

Thank you for sharing that info. BTW. I really appreciate it.

The reason I think it is back pressure is the fact that this thing spools stupid fast. If it spools fast, you will get great low end/mid range as is the case here. But for that to happen, the top end may suffer a bit...again the case here. So if I open it up with a 1.32 housing, the boost may slow down a bit, but the boost along with mid range/top end would be much better. Not that it is bad at all now...I just like it perfect :).

Theoretical volumetric efficiency numbers:

LS1 at 5,000 RPM: 501 cubic feet per minute
LS1 at 6,000 RPM: 601 cubic feet per minute
VQ37 at 7,500 RPM: 490 cubic feet per minute
2JZ at 6,800 RPM: 360 cubic feet per minute

So assuming even a slight bump in volumetric efficiency for the VQ over the LS1, you are in the upper operating ranges of an LS1 and 25% more than a 2JZ

This is very interesting that boost falls off in the upper rpm's .With my car my boost holds well all the way to red line but I am experiencing backpressure.

What kind of boost controller was used?.

Jason has the same controller as me, HKS EVC-S.