if you are DDing your car, i would go with a supercharger, whether its a stillen or GTM kit, a supercharger will allow you to keep a similar powerband to the stock car because boost is matching the revs unlike a turbo where you are N/A until your spool point then you get there, you get a sudden torque surge(but that is all relative to your build and what type of turbos you are using, smaller turbos=better spool time but less top end, while bigger turbos=longer spool times but better top end)

imo you could go with either the stillen supercharger kit or the GTM 1.5 supercharger kit and be happy, both make lots of power under the curve which is what you want in a street build

mine s jsut a weekend car. i am getting the new gtm tt kit. and i'm confident that i can get by with a 25 row cooler and their larger capacity oil pan. now, on the other hand, if u go boosted and are constantly getting into boost while cruising around, u will see temps rise in a hurry. its all about how u drive

Got the kit today came with two 25 row oil coolers will install both on engine. Will order radiator and fan shroud then install

I still recommend a larger oil cooler. It's a nice low 80s day, and my oil temp peaked at 210-215F from getting lunch. Your car will start cutting power, and you'll feel the throttle response drop. Even with my 34 row I can see the slightly slower boost build up in 2nd.

Yes, still using my stock radiator because it has been working well. I would suggest that you use the stock one and see how it works out for you.

Thanks to one of the threads here regarding the coolant bleed cap, I'm going to get my coolant flushed again. My last tech didn't know about it after doing the heater core flush and only burped the system. I still hear bubbling in the core, and the car wants to overheat when ambient is at least 90F. When I picked it up in Houston, it can survive 100F+ temps without overheating.

Just dont want to risk anything with temp in range of 115 to 130 whole day long, specially on my way back driving everyday it will be 125-130.

Still evaluating the timeline either to install tune now or wait till september when it starts cooling a bit.

just remember blowing up and wearing out are two different things. have the motor compression or leakdown tested to so where it stands now if you are worried about the condition of it. barring a few cases i'm sure its fine but best to know before you do it. if it does come in on the low side you know a rebuild may be in your future.

How much of a temp difference is it for your seasons?
If it is that big of a concern then you might consider running 2 tunes. One for the high heat and one for super cold days. In Texas we usually are in the 70+ area for all the year so I run one tune and had it done in 100 degree heat, but always curious what a colder 60 degree day dyno run & tune could produce.

It's funny that you mention 2 tunes. I was just going to comment on how my single 34 row OC handles the awesome TX heat, but now I want to comment on multiple tunes. I have found that my low boost tune suffers from increased heat soak as opposed to my high boost tune that seems to be the more preferred one of the 2 for me. I have a strange stumble on the transition to positive boost pressure differential on low and almost nonexistent on high. But I think I have a vac leak and O2 sensor issues as well (just an intuitive guess) that I will be hunting down @ UPREV late this week or early next week.

550 is very doable. 500 is the sweet spot though. 450whp is really low if spending that money..

550 is pushing the limits on stock internals imo. for a dd that would be too much

From what i gathered 600 is pushing the stock internals on the motor. that why i said 500 is the sweetspot as well. 550 is doable but 500 is safest without being so low in the power range.