Sam is looking at it now. I guess that was a 3rd gear pull.
Car seems to be working good. This was a canned tune from GTM.
Also the 3rd gear pull is not a good chart so much as the 4th gear pulls
are better looking? Waiting on the tweaking from GTM.

If it was the initial tune he sent, there's a lot left on the table. It was a very noticable difference on mine between the first tune he emailed me and the current one. You'll like the results when he gets back to you. How much boost are you running?

I don't know why a shop would use 3rd gear for dynoing a car. I was under the impression you wanted to get as close to a 1:1 ratio as you could without dealing with excessive wheel speed.

I think the boost is running around 0.7 bar(10lbs)+/-

10 psi? Okay, then those numbers are more than a little low.

10lbs? Then sumthin is horribly wrong.

0.7 Bar should net something in the neighborhood od 500+ WHP. I am sure that a slightly richer AFR condition is done for safety reasons, but anything under 450 WHP just seems low.

Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk 2

Did you ever get this tune straightened out - curious what it put down in the end. Should be a 4th gear pull for sure. My previous car put down 640 to the wheels -looking forward to seeing your TT in person!

TT parked until spring
 

Products Purchase from Z1/waiting to install:

1 x MOTUL MoCOOL Radiator Coolant Additive
1 x 370Z Upgraded Radiator with Condenser
1 x Mishimoto Thermostat For 370Z/G37
1 x AAM Competition Oil Pan Spacer (VQ37HR)
1 x 08-Up G35 G37 Z Speed Performance Aluminum Engine Under Shroud
Finish: Black

Wish List:
Products
1 x Kinetix 370Z / G37 Front Camber Arms
2 x SPC Rear Camber Arms
1 x BC Racing Type BR- Version: RS
1 x Whiteline Sway Bar Set
1 x Seibon Carbon Fiber Vented Hood-TS

My Tuning:

Got a second tune from Sam(GTM) seems to be working great
i will have to dyno again. Last dynos it was so hot outside it affected
the readings im sure over (30degC+/-)

Be careful with the Mishimoto stuff. Their themostats fail and can take a motor with them.

Hey Chuck
thanks for the comment,
Any Other suggestions other than the Mishimoto?
I ran really hot on the track-but it was a scorcher.

Not for the thermostat. Look at fans and hood venting instead of the thermostat. I won't run anything made by Mishimoto. Also, did Sam lower the fan temps on your tune? That helped me a lot.

Not sure if fan temps were touched or not. I guess i will have to do some
run files.

Fan speeds to kick on lower will help, also upgrading the fans will be a solid move, the hood venting will be a nice added bonus. I am finally getting my seibon TS hood on and once the temps warm up I will finish my data logging and comparison charts.

I was looking at some fans and shrouds also any suggestions?

I'd try the radiator and the lower fan temps first, and then see what additional parts you may need.

Since I am not one to do wiring and all that, I know GTM has a nice plug-n-play fan/shroud setup with a couple fan options and it works with their radiator and now confirmed to work with the CSF radiator.

That's the rub. Theirs is a easy drop-in, but I hesitate to send them any money based on their current issues.

Also, what have you done to combat underhood temps already? Any header wrap/ceramic coating? That may be a good place to look as well.

Thats right i forgot that i have Turbo and header wraps to install as well.

i was eyeballing that setup as well. But will look at these options first as wraps,rad and vented hood. Those could be a second option for sure.

if you want more power but dont want to spend the money on a full 3in exhaust, get a 3in electric cutout welded on to your test pipe

i have the Z1 test pipes on to the Greddy TIC Turbo exhaust. Never heard of cutting test pipes before.

It would be a pain in the ***. There's not enough room in there if you've got external wastegates. You'd have to weld them in way downstream. You'd also have to get another map for when the cutouts are open. And electric cutouts fail all the time. And they're not cheap.

I've thought about cutouts before, you could install them just after the test pipes and it would still be a big improvement, but you absolutely do not need another tune for a larger exhaust, I wish people would stop spreading information like this when they don't fully understand things. They certainly seem prone to failure though which is a concern.

You don't need to retune unless boost starts spiking to stupidly high levels, I have seen eclipses with cutouts spike upwards of 5psi with the cutout open vs closed.

Also the more expensive cutouts have low failure rates with good warranties. QTP(I think that's the companies name) has an extremely low failure rate and has a leak proof design, but their cutouts are expensive, close to 300 for one. The cutouts that use the butterfly valve design always leak eventually due to soot build up preventing the valve from fully closing.

You don't need a retune for a larger exhaust, but you do for the cutout. You're essentially going from a 2.5 in to no exhaust.

no. no you don't.

You would just run the cutouts with no adjustment to the tune? I would absolutely get it on the dyno and see if anything needed to be adjusted.

if you're on a stock block and afraid of making too much power, sure put it on a dyno and see if you want to turn down the boost. as far as AFR and timing goes, going from a 2.5" to 3" cutouts won't require a change to the tune

Are there bigger test pipes(GTM?)
i am running with no cats.

GTM has 3" downpipes, but they won't mate up to a 2.5" exhaust without some work.