Sam has been amazingly accessible to me when I call, in fact, I think I've called GTM about 15-20 time (since my car has been worked on there) and Sam has answered 80-90% of the time.
Sam has amazing knowledge of our cars and has always shared it freely when I ask,

jm1fd, wht pressure do u think the compressor will start cutting off if its too high or too low on the high or low side ?because from my knowldge the low should be 32 to 40 max and high side should be doublt the ambient temp the car is in so if its at 130f , the high side should be 260 to 300 max , but the qustion is wht pressures should we avoid leavin the car in

What you're describing makes it sound like the heat coming off the back of the oil cooler is what is just enough to push things over the edge. Fans with more airflow should help.

Shop manual says:

- Approximately 3,120 kPa (31.8 kg/cm2, 452 psi) or more (Engine speed is 1,500 rpm or more.)
- Approximately 2,740 kPa (27.9 kg/cm2, 397 psi) or more (Engine speed is less than 1,500 rpm.)

You can't just say "double the ambient" because the P/T curve of R-134a is non-linear, rather it is somewhat parabolic in nature. Pressure increases faster as temperature goes up.

The factory shop manual calls for a high side pressure of 185-227 psi at 104F ambient. This indicates a condensing temperature of 125F-140F, so the factory is saying your effective condensing temperature is going to be ~25 to 40F over ambient. 130F + 25 to 40F comes out to 155 to 170F which works out to 281psi to 340psi.

Systems should not be charged by pressure. They should be charged by refrigerant weight. Do not decrease the charge below the factory spec, if you do, you'll get poor oil return to the compressor, and eventually it'll trash it.

thank you so much for the info and feedback

Did anyone here experiencing issues get it fixed? How was it remedied? Now that I have my kit on I'm experiencing the same issues of my a/c blowing piss warm air. Im in phx so when it's 100+ outside it doesn't make for a comfortable experience haha. Taking it to the shop tomorrow to have then check it out. I didn't notice it until oil temps got around 235 which just driving around here my car did stock b4 the oil pan spacer and 34r oil cooler :-(

this isnt much air going to your ac condenser since the 370z styling already doesnt haver much air and now we turbo guys blocked the air by the intercooler, we are one of the first ppl to have problems with ac with the tt kit in the middleast in 2011 , and we tried loads of stuff u name it , we tried it , now the solution is simply as follows

1- change your radiator caps+ reservoir (high nismo radiator caps)
2- bleed your radiator with distilled water and water wetter( one bottle only) if it doesnt get below 40f in arizona then pure distilled water will work better but if it does stick to 10 to 15% coolant
3-tweek your fans to come on early lets say 185 full power
4-change your fans to spal fans 2700 cfm i think--) almost three times the power of the stock 500 cfm each fans
SPAL USA

u can contact alex goodwin at motionlab for good prices and way better than getting it direct from spal , or u can do your own search for better prices u will find good prices online as well atleast 100 bucks cheaper than spal.

the above mentioned solutions are working great in 130F heat these days in kuwait ,:bowrofl:

these are suggestions only and we did them while being fully responsiable of the out come , but thank god everything is working perfect , not sure if the radiator caps helped or not actually but the in the end the overall out come is amazing , am sure its the upgraded fans and distilled water with waterwetter did the job but who knows , and i dont care as long as it got fixed ,

i forgot to mention we added also a pusher fans on the oil cooler with a 195fswitch , temps are 210-220 max on wot pulls at night while its 117f , no one dares to do any pulls at 130f weather loool :tiphat:

hope this helps

for the fans u need , 1-harness kit , and 1-185 or 195 fan harness kit

Thanks for the SPAL fan suggestion. Is this OEM fitment? Most of us are looking for something to compliment the CSF radiator and condenser combo.

We also use csf radiators which I am sure now they were not the best choice since they are single core and don't do an amazing job , anyway the fans are smaller than stock and will use some modification and straps and stuff but no biggie everything can be cut and put together we were gana do anything to fix this issue :ughdance:

Don't forget to make sure ur ac pressure low and high side are in the perfect range we check once at the hottest time of the day and once at the coolest time, hope this help guys

I don't know if anything's changed since, but back sometime in 2009 I looked at the Nismo "upgrade" radiator cap, and it's actually a *lower* pressure rating than our stock radiator cap. I guess it's just a generic part that might be an upgrade for some other compatible Nissan cars, but it was a downgrade on ours (compare the pressure specs written on your stock cap, or in the svc manual, to the quoted figures on the Nismo one...).

Stock nismo 2012 cap is rated at 88kpa , the upgraded one is rated 130kpa which is 0.13 mpa

the confusing part we got 2 upgraded nismos caps , in the nismo below 2012 the radiator cap was the one that has pressure cap number on and the reservoir cap had no pressure ratings so when ppl changed the caps they changed the one going to the radiator hose and left the plastic cap for the reservoir as is or some upgraded their resevoir tanks to stainless steal so they close it with metal cap , on the 2012 nismos , the resevoir cap has the pressure rating on it and the one going to the hose has no ratings is just pure metal with no pressure rubber inside it , so it got us confused to which one to choose , so we changed both to the upgraded nismo one , but i have a feeling i should leave the one going to the hose as is with the one that has no pressure rating on it and no pressure rubber inside it .

u guys can google 370z nismo 2012 engine pictures , u will see how the 2012 nismo caps are put togather and then look at your engines or google older versions , hope u guys can chime in

thanks:ugh2:

Found my old post from 2009, so I don't have to look things up again. On the 2009's the stock radiator cap is rated at 137 kPa (19.87 psi), and the Nismo cap that was offered at the time was rated for 125 kPa (18.2 psi). http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...html#post56613

On the 2009's, there's only a proper pressure relief radiator cap on the engine side of things (the water outlet on the block). The overflow tank is plastic and has a threaded screw-on plastic cap with no pressure relief.