Did anyone here experiencing issues get it fixed? How was it remedied? Now that I have my kit on I'm experiencing the same issues of my a/c blowing piss warm air. Im in phx so when it's 100+ outside it doesn't make for a comfortable experience haha. Taking it to the shop tomorrow to have then check it out. I didn't notice it until oil temps got around 235 which just driving around here my car did stock b4 the oil pan spacer and 34r oil cooler :-(

this isnt much air going to your ac condenser since the 370z styling already doesnt haver much air and now we turbo guys blocked the air by the intercooler, we are one of the first ppl to have problems with ac with the tt kit in the middleast in 2011 , and we tried loads of stuff u name it , we tried it , now the solution is simply as follows

1- change your radiator caps+ reservoir (high nismo radiator caps)
2- bleed your radiator with distilled water and water wetter( one bottle only) if it doesnt get below 40f in arizona then pure distilled water will work better but if it does stick to 10 to 15% coolant
3-tweek your fans to come on early lets say 185 full power
4-change your fans to spal fans 2700 cfm i think--) almost three times the power of the stock 500 cfm each fans
SPAL USA

u can contact alex goodwin at motionlab for good prices and way better than getting it direct from spal , or u can do your own search for better prices u will find good prices online as well atleast 100 bucks cheaper than spal.

the above mentioned solutions are working great in 130F heat these days in kuwait ,:bowrofl:

these are suggestions only and we did them while being fully responsiable of the out come , but thank god everything is working perfect , not sure if the radiator caps helped or not actually but the in the end the overall out come is amazing , am sure its the upgraded fans and distilled water with waterwetter did the job but who knows , and i dont care as long as it got fixed ,

i forgot to mention we added also a pusher fans on the oil cooler with a 195fswitch , temps are 210-220 max on wot pulls at night while its 117f , no one dares to do any pulls at 130f weather loool :tiphat:

hope this helps

for the fans u need , 1-harness kit , and 1-185 or 195 fan harness kit

Thanks for the SPAL fan suggestion. Is this OEM fitment? Most of us are looking for something to compliment the CSF radiator and condenser combo.

We also use csf radiators which I am sure now they were not the best choice since they are single core and don't do an amazing job , anyway the fans are smaller than stock and will use some modification and straps and stuff but no biggie everything can be cut and put together we were gana do anything to fix this issue :ughdance:

Don't forget to make sure ur ac pressure low and high side are in the perfect range we check once at the hottest time of the day and once at the coolest time, hope this help guys

I don't know if anything's changed since, but back sometime in 2009 I looked at the Nismo "upgrade" radiator cap, and it's actually a *lower* pressure rating than our stock radiator cap. I guess it's just a generic part that might be an upgrade for some other compatible Nissan cars, but it was a downgrade on ours (compare the pressure specs written on your stock cap, or in the svc manual, to the quoted figures on the Nismo one...).

Stock nismo 2012 cap is rated at 88kpa , the upgraded one is rated 130kpa which is 0.13 mpa

the confusing part we got 2 upgraded nismos caps , in the nismo below 2012 the radiator cap was the one that has pressure cap number on and the reservoir cap had no pressure ratings so when ppl changed the caps they changed the one going to the radiator hose and left the plastic cap for the reservoir as is or some upgraded their resevoir tanks to stainless steal so they close it with metal cap , on the 2012 nismos , the resevoir cap has the pressure rating on it and the one going to the hose has no ratings is just pure metal with no pressure rubber inside it , so it got us confused to which one to choose , so we changed both to the upgraded nismo one , but i have a feeling i should leave the one going to the hose as is with the one that has no pressure rating on it and no pressure rubber inside it .

u guys can google 370z nismo 2012 engine pictures , u will see how the 2012 nismo caps are put togather and then look at your engines or google older versions , hope u guys can chime in

thanks:ugh2:

Found my old post from 2009, so I don't have to look things up again. On the 2009's the stock radiator cap is rated at 137 kPa (19.87 psi), and the Nismo cap that was offered at the time was rated for 125 kPa (18.2 psi). http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...html#post56613

On the 2009's, there's only a proper pressure relief radiator cap on the engine side of things (the water outlet on the block). The overflow tank is plastic and has a threaded screw-on plastic cap with no pressure relief.

yeah the 2012 nismos come with 88kpa pressure cap which is way less than 2009 and even the upgraded nismo am talking about thats why i changed , so who ever has the old caps is lucky , hmmm not sure about which cap to change ? we changed both and its running fine but why would nissan change the set up ? their has to be a reason for going to a less pressure cap and even change places putting the one that has a pressure relief to the water resevoir place and the one to the hose just has a nissan sign with no pressure relief inside the cap and no pressure reading on top . come on guys jump in and share :driving:

u can see clearly in the link below that in 2012 370z models they changed the cooling system abit to make similar to the gtr which uses 0 pressure cap next to the engine and uses pressurized cap on the reservoir cap , in older models it was the other way around since older models had a plastic cap on the reservoir so in my case i will just reuse the 0 pressure cap next to the engine and leave the upgraded cap on the reservoir since stock suck ,

keeps u thinking why they did that ? hmmmm:stirthepot:

2012 370z nismo engine (0 pressure cap on the engine side)
2012 Nissan 370Z NISMO Coupe Engine Photos | GTcarlot.com

2011 370z nismo (pressurized cap next to the engine side)
2011 Nissan Nismo 370Z: Grassroots Motorsports New Car Reviews

gtr engine bay (0 pressure cap on the engine side)
2012 Nissan GTR – New, improved and pricey. | JDM Wallpapers | HQ Japanese Import Wallpapers

Allthough our unit is only a single row, it's still twice the thickness as the OE radiator + it comes with 15% more efficient tubes.

To make the unit a "drop-in fit" we could only make the unit a larger 1 row. Otherwise there would be a good amount of cutting to install a larger unit, and would most likely cut down our potential market base.

We've just given a unit to motoIQ.com to do a real-life before/after track test with temperature logging. The results should be published within a month.

We were also on Bullet's "White dragon", and dynoed at 990HP.

If you have a massive intercooler sucking in hot/warm air - then the warm air, which is now even hotter after going through the intercooler, has to go through the condenser and finally through the radiator (even hotter air) - you will need a radiator with a much larger capacity (at least large 2/3 rows) - there is no space for this in the vehicle without removing the condenser or major structural changes. To top it all off, the exit for air flow after the fans is very limited as well.

The temperatures of the middle east are an extreme case of vehicle cooling problems. I personally would not buy a 370Z in the middle east because there is not enough space/flow to fix the factory cooling issues. With that being said, our unit has had great success in many track and normal ambient temp settings.. even with cars with F.I.

Awesome, will be neat to see the data.

I'm curious, if I can pick your brain for a minute here derailing this thread. I've been thinking down the line about getting rid of my 19-row Setrab oil cooler and going to a Laminova oil:water exchanger instead (this on a car that just does 30-minute HPDEs, in TX heat, and no FI).

There's not a lot of data about going this route yet, although I think Travis's first attempt ended up with the Laminova being good enough to cool the oil, but the stock radiator not being able to handle the extra heat in the water system, IIRC. AM Performance successfully ran a similar setup during their brief existence in the Conti series, but not sure what they were using for a radiator. Any guess as to whether yours would handle the heat from this?

its cool that csf is being on track , but i guess their isnt anything wrong giving an opinion , middleeast or not hot or cold , tests should have been done in climates way hotter than here for example , take vettes for example they have limited airflow , when dewitts made their radiator they made an option for radiator only or radiator plus fans , so u guys could have done that in my opinion than letting the customer go and fine their own fans with spal , but again ur radiators are cool and i used them for 3 z's in the middleeast but they need a helper such as spal fans period to make a Z run at its best , so i hope this thread will be a good pusher for u guys to make a complete kit with fans ect ect and make us worldwide run as cool as a camri :bowrofl:

csf guys do u guys know why nissan changed the radiator setup on the 2012, and made it typical as the r35 ? as mentioned in my above replies ?

thanks

On the change for the radiator setup in 2012, that is when they introduced the water oil cooler.
From what I have seen the oil cooler uses radiator coolant which might explain the redesign.

makes sense :yum:
i opened a thread regarding the fan control setting by temp and made it to come on fully at 195f , factory settings suck , but the qustion is did anyone change the ac pressure setting ? their are fan setting by temp an speed and their is by ac pressure , most ppl didnt mess with it , but i have a feeling it might help .again u have ac problems , just change your fans and weak them to come on early + distilled water and wetter for better cooling . problem solved :tiphat:

i cant believe factory fan cfm's are 500 each !! even a maxima and taurus are way:bowrofl::bowrofl: higher

Thanks I'm hoping this will cure my problem as it doesn't get much hotter than 116 on the worst days here in AZ. I have an 09 so have the old (better) radiator caps from what it sounds like, I had the tuner tweak the fans to come on full power at 185, and adding distilled +water wetter this afternoon. Only thing left if that doesnt work is going the bigger cfm fans. Fingers crossed the Z will be gtg when I pick it back up tonite after following your list
:tiphat:

woow 116 thats winter loool its 130 today :shakes head:
wish u the best , but i think 185 full power is abit too low since as i read if u have stock thermostat it opens fully at 180-185 so fans should be at full power atleast 195 , 10 degrees after the thermostat . dont count on this info though

I would not put the fans on before 195, let the themostat open at least first then have them kick on.
If you are still having problems the bigger cfm fans will be very good. That is one thing I wish I had did when we upgraded the radiator but it was a bit of a rush so we just took out the OEM and put in the CSF radiator quickly (and yes it is a very quick job actually).

Do you know if there are aftermarket fans that have OEM fitment for the CSF radiator? The CSF is the way I am leaning given the cost premium of the GTM radiator (though it is a super nice piece).

SPAL USA

they fit but need some tweakin since they are smaller in size but stronger 3 times , u can get them from other vendors , for cheaper such as motion lab :tiphat:

Oops! To late. I got your reply to set the fans on full about 185 while it was headed to the tuners n he did what we told him. Will that mess anything up? I know in the summer it should be fine? but the other 6mos of the year when it's in the 70s during the day is it possible to keep the car from heating up all the way? I guess I can always take it back to the tuner and have him set it to 195 later. Whats the repercussions from having it set at 185 full power? I just wanted my a/c to work right lol

Do the SPAL fans need an independent controller, or will the ECU be able to control them?

i dont think anything will go wrong if u set it up st 185 but it advisable to stay 10 degrees higher than the thermostat opening , thats why i mentioned 195 , i even set mine at 201 , waiting for the tuner to come back to set at 195 , but again doin the fan mod by it self didnt help us regarding the ac getting hot in sotp go traffic just made the coolant stay lower thats all , if u want the ac to work u have to put stronger fans or leave the stock fan and pusher fan behind the intercooler to push air on the radiator/condensor , but we said we dont want more voltage with this extra fan thingy so we installed the spal fan i mentioned , it wasnt easy though an needed little work

it works fine all u need is fan harness kit and a 185 or 195 harness kit as well and brackets or straps .

just a quick update the the spal fans got installed on the second Z now , and i can tell u guys , its loud as hell its like an 560sel 1990 benz hehehehe , it needed little cutting and tweaking since its way smaller than stock fans shroud wise and fan wise as well , next time ill go with stronger independent fans without the shroud since the shroud got cut anyway with higher cfm although its more than enough but i am greedy :happydance: but i can tell u guys this
---)a turbo/supercharged Z with no spal fans is pointless it runs maximum of 201 in stop go traffic with freazing cold ac in 137f temps, and 185 to 195 in driving around and 205 max in spirited driving in those temps really hot ambient temps!!! at night when its like 120f to 115f temps in spirited driving its in the 190's zone , oil temps got lower as well , and intake temps got lower as well , no more hot ac no more heat soak just pure power, when you pop the hood be careful not to be sucked in loool :bowrofl:

thanks to alex@ motion lab for great prices and service , hope this helps u guys out sweating your pants off in stop go traffic in your Z's heheheheh:driving:

Please, if your posting Hindu, and and your having a hard time putting together something that resembles correct sentence structure, please throw it on a word document. Commas do not negate the use of a period, the first word is always capitalized, after your last comma, you had no conjunction word (and, but, nor, yet, so, etc), and you changed the topic in the same "sentence" four times.

Don't get me wrong, I appreciate your input on this thread, but it's seriously difficult at times to figure out what your trying to say.

thanks for your input , but am not here to learn English or communication skills
if you want to give me personal english skills or grammer classes for free , please pm ill pay you a dollar for your feedback in how to type and to get better an hour:tiphat:, if you have problems understanding my english i apologies i am just here to pass a msg for other forum members and how to fix a serious problem with these cars by the way english is my second language so if its not perfect or if i should type in a certain way maybe i missed it in the forum rules . if you also have problems understanding spal fans you can google spal fans to know more about them or the issue we are having when going to the limits with these cars or feel free to read my older posts .

thank you

i already posted which fans to go with to fix the ac problems in hot weather with our car but here is the link i got it from motion lab since they offer better prices and great service

SPAL USA

Pictures of install please.

Straight blade design are actually more noisy than curve paddle blade . I may try the other one and see .

c7701b51c526cba0c97a48c99037f523 - YouTube

this is a walk around vid to show u guys how loud the fans are :bowrofl:
the engine looks like a big mess because we opened it and installed gtm stage 1 block kit (pistons,rods ect ect ) but since then we have been having loads of trouble with codes regarding timing valve or something is happing we have 2 gtrs with same problem as well after we rebuilt their block , these engines are too sensitive they are becoming not a pleasure to mess with them changed cam senors,crank sensors,sprockets,checked solenoid, and loads of stuff but everytime we put it back and drive it for sometime it goes back to limp mode and codes show up again ,we might have to open it for the third time i just had enough at the time being :shakes head:

This is exactly what I'm thinking , do we need independent control unit or ECU can control them ?

when i emailed spal they said each fan need a controller so they advised a fan switch kit 185 or 195 , and a fan switch by it self and this is wht i stuck to to avoid any surprises to save 40 bucks or so , but my mechanic told me he could have done it with only one .

Where is the fan switch getting the temperature from? Do you have to tap something?

am sure it has some sort of sensor or something thats activates depeding on your choice 185 or 195 f regardless guys dont think twise about this mod , it will need cutting and tweaking because the shroud it comes with it too small so it needs to be fabricated back to the stock one but do it now because i was stuiped for waiting on 3 tt 370z's to figure out this mod sheeeeeesh:shakes head:i had radiators, oil cooler, ect ect and nothing did it for me as much as the fans did period