^gee, good idea! :P

i CAN GET 7.7 OUT OF MY 6.5 PULLY IN THE WINTER

Interesting, the most I've seen on my HR motor is 9.5 lbs with the smallest pulley GTM has available for stage 1(84mm).

Ok. Let me first preface this with something EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. You cannot simply grab a dyno graph of two different cars and expect to get 100% meaningful results. Here's why: EVERY CAR IS DIFFERENT. Some cars, even with the same exact setup simply perform better than others. These two cars in this graph are what we consider "strong cars". If they were on a bell curve, they'd be one to two standard deviations to the right of the mean.

Manufacturing tolerances allow for a variance in manufactured components. Some cars take more timing than others. Therefore, you can't assume that your car will make exactly the same amount of power. Environmental factors and fuel quality also play a huge role in horsepower production.

All that said, onto the graphs. You can see here that the Stage 1 makes more area under the curve than the Stage 2. The Stage 2 will smoke the Stage 1 on the track, but the Stage 1 will feel better on the street due to all the midrange torque it makes. The Stage 2 will benefit greatly from more displacement/built motor/higher octane fuel because you will be able to decrease the pulley size and flow more air/make more boost.



Again, if you are looking for eleventy billion horsepower, go TT and don't look back. The supercharger kit is designed for the person looking to make decent power on a daily driven/weekend track car on a budget.

in for the eleventy billion horsepower.

So if ran a stage ! on my car and shifted at 6500 rpm my feeling is that it would beat the stage 2 in the 1/4 mile.
Look at the diference in torque and rwhp. it huge up to 6500 rpm.
we are just going to have to wait to see what my stage 2 will do in the 1/4 mile with the 4.08 gears.
What would it make with a meth kit (stage 1) ? i guess would be 450 rwhp
Z

^ from 5k to 6.5k rpm, it looks like an avg ~15 whp difference favoring the st1 over st2 for this particular configuration on these cars at the times they were run. of course the st2 will be tunable to higher #s... and the st2 is on average ~15 whp higher than the st1 from 6.5k to 7.5k... my guess is it would be roughly a wash with these two cars as they are set up, assuming they both shift at redline

in addition, i like the very linear acceleration that is likely to result from the st2, all the way to redline it should pull like a bmw

only downside for me with the st2 is power/weight classing based upon peak power! I think I may put a rev limit in of 7k in order to meet my target

Yes that's what I want to accomplish and strive for with the meth injection ....... a 1.5 meth/SC ..... after I get my *ahem* issue resolved with my Z. The upgrade plan is under way with new CJM parts to be on order shortly.

Please post the results achieved with the Nismo 1.5.

Looking forward to what results can happen with a free breathing stage 1 and meth injection, drag radials and DSS axles. :tup:

It's going to be a interesting spring time

Don't have a good answer for you on that... All the beasts are a bit different...

In June I was running 8.2~8.7psi. Now I am hitting 9.6~10.3psi in the cold

My gauge records peak boost and lets me look at it at a later time so I usually check that to ensure that I don't have a boost leak before I get shut down the car.

I run her pretty hard all the time and am on the 91 octane map all the time, as I wanted a bit more safety as I always run 93 octane gas.

12K with the supercharger and she does not burn a drop of oil in 3500 miles :hello:

Oh man, if there really was a stage 1.5, that would make my choice way more interesting...

Looking at those dynos though, Mike, would you say that the current stage 1 compressor side is maxed out? It really falls flat after 6500 RPMs.

Man, this reminds me a lot of choosing a turbo for my STi ... big versus little.

there is such a thing for s/c 1.5, i talked with Mike about it

I'd like to see the difference on the stage 1 after the stage 2 compressor housing upgrade...

I put 6k miles on a Stage 1 kit in about 5 months. Here is my review if you are interested.

This is just my personal opinion and it applies just to the GTM SC Kit Stage 1. This is just my 2 cents and is a long read. There is more to your decision of Stage 1 or 2. There is a lot involved with going FI on the 370z. You might already know this information but it might be helpful for others making the same decision.

I have been on the GTM Stage 1 kit for 5 months and have put 6k on it since the install. The only problems I have encountered with the kit were 2 oil leaks and a slight idle problem. Other than that, knock on wood, I have been extremely happy with GTM and the SC impresses me every time I drive the car.

Decisions, decisions ….
Several people have asked me about the SC decision and this is what I tell them. You have to make some important decisions about the direction of the performance of your 370 up front. If you start out with the standard bolt-ons and then go FI, you are going to waste a lot of cash. So up front, either decide to stay NA or go FI. I also like the fact that the Stage 1 is low impact on the car. You have to look to even know it is installed. It looks like aftermarket air intakes. 75% of the people who look in my engine bay cannot find the SC. No kidding ….

The next decision is you have to make a personal commitment to the additional cost of the supplemental parts and potential labor to support the GTM SC kit. This is no negative on GTM, but they sell a turn-key FI kit. That kit includes all of the FI parts, but does include the supplemental accessories I think are necessary to help ensure longevity of the motor. Again, this is just my opinion.

Supplemental Parts
The fact of the matter is the 370z runs on the hot side for coolant and oil temperatures. You as the customer need to decide what you want to install to keep your fluids at an acceptable level. I live in Texas and we had record heat last summer; thus, my car suffered with some high oil temps.

GTM does offer a great selection of parts to supplement the kit. I am specifically talking about upgraded cooling fans, shrouds, radiator, and a myriad of oil cooling solutions. I think it would be a good business decision to add options to the SC kit that include some of these cooling solutions at a reduced price rather than adding them after the fact. I know some of these parts are new and just released so maybe that is in the works.

So I decided up front I was going with the GTM SC kit. The Stage 2 had just been released but I went with the Stage 1 for several reasons.

• The Stage 1 kit was available and the Stage 2 was a 6-8 week wait, and I am not known for patience. GTM has probably caught up on production now anyway.
• Stage 1 is less cash outlay than Stage 2
• The install labor at my shop was less for Stage 1 versus Stage 2
• I had a better shot with OEM clutch longevity with Stage 1 (meaning less cost out of pocket up front or soon). I am well aware at some point, the CSC and clutch will succumb to my lead foot.
• I thought that ~400WHP would be enough for street use because I do not track my car. Sure the Stage 2 would have been more power, but I went with the Stage 1 anyway. Still happy with that decision today in fact.

I do not want to debate any of these, but those were my reasons for going Stage 1.

Maintenance
The next commitment is a higher standard for regular or routine maintenance. If you are used to driving your car around and doing little to no maintenance, any FI is probably not for you.

What do I mean by higher standard of maintenance?

• I check my oil level at least every other day and my car is a DD. I discovered 2 oil leaks on a pad that I park over to indicate fluid leaks. The first leak was coming from a loose oil cooler line and the other was a seal on the sandwich plate. Thus, if you are used to not checking things like this, perhaps FI is not for you.
• A lot of people have the ideology that I have a new car with new seals, so nothing is going to leak for 50-60k miles. That is not true. Adding FI to your car requires a lot of parts that deliver fluids so things may have to be adjusted or seals have to be replaced. You have to be prepared to deal with things like this. No it is not a high maintenance thing to some, but you do have to deal with it one way or the other.
• I change my oil and filter every 3k miles. I have an extra capacity oil pan so that means 7 quarts and a filter.
• I check my Rotrex fluid level once a week, and I am prepared perform the recommended maintenance interval for the SC. This is a $300 kit from GTM that includes the Rotrex traction fluid, SC oil filter, SC belt, and a spray to clean the by-pass valve. They say a 50k interval but I will probably do this at about 30k.
• I am paranoid about the plastic CSC going, so I check my clutch fluid at least 1x a week. I keep a fund available just to replace the CSC and clutch. I know at some point it will go simply because I am putting down more HP and torque. I do not have a magic wand, but I know the stock clutch will fail me at some point.
• The Stage 1 air filters are located where the windshield washer reservoir was installed. So to service the air filters, you have to raise the car, remove the wheel, and remove the fender lining to access the two filters. To some this is easy, but to others used to changing panel filters in the engine bay, it is more involved. I think Sam said to service them every other oil change, so I am due to clean and re-oil my filters.

The whole point I am trying to make is when a NA car is stock, you can neglect checking a lot of things and the car still runs relatively well for a long time. With bolt-ons, other than from an emissions perspective, there is not a whole lot of maintenance required on the parts. With any FI install, there is a lot more going on, so you as the responsible owner must decide if you are in or out or what has to be maintained to keep the grin in your face when you mash the accelerator.

Hope this helps with your decision. GTM is a great vendor and source of information. Sam and Mike have been most helpful with me during the entire process including service after the sale which is very important to me.

I am right at 380WHP on a conservative tune from SAM on a dyno pull in 115 degree heat. I hope to have a full tune done in the late winter or spring and come closer to the 400WHP mark.

Great post wind.zero :tup:

I agree, his post was as informative as it can get for those thinking about FI.:tiphat:

Agree! Someone should sticky that post before it gets buried.

I was lucky that I had a chance to get a ride with wind.zero's car about 2-3 weeks ago.
Once the car launched, first 1 second it goes like my z (310whp), but I could feel a great torque kicking in around 3.5~4k rpm. He did a couple of 40mph starting, and this time it was a totally different feeling from the beginning since he could launch from above 3500 rpm.
Throughout the first and second gear, I could hear somewhat unpleasant sound of S/C, but it was not that bad. I am sure that I will get used to it just like road noise from the stock 370z. Breathing sounds are awesome. I personally like it more than bov.

It seems very fun to drive as well as fun to ride in the passenger seat.
We were literally laughing all the time during the drive.
For those who may think S/C don't have enough torque to put you deep in the seat, but it was not true. It was as fun as a turbocharged car to me (like stock Evo/sti)

Overall, it was a great experience for me to decide to go with S/C stage 1 later on. I was debating between S/C and TT both stage 1, and I was very concerned of torque rather than horsepower. For me, who don't really go to track, S/C stage 1 will give me enough power to put a smile on my face.

It is very true that you will get used to the power within 2-3 weeks anyway.
For instance, I have a friend who used to have R35 HKS 600 kit with 650 awhp, and recently he is done with HKS 800 with 4.2L engine upgrade which now makes 960 awhp.
After 10 days of driving, he is thirsty of more power.

The point here is that, you will feel like wanting more power anyway.
Think of what you need your car for, but personally, s/c stage 1 sounds enough for me as a DD.

wind.zero,

excellent post, probably the best review I've seen so far for this kit. I'll be looking forward to next review when the SC oil gets changed out!

:iagree:

Here's a question some of you might hate but it means the world to me:

0-62mph & 62-95mph

Stage I or Stage II?

Oh and if the result it that one kit is better for one of the above speed ranges than the other, I'm going to bang my head against a wall until it bleeds.

0-60 is traction dependent. On street tires I bet they are the same. Stage II should win 60-95

what are some 0-60 times of any of these FI cars? has anyone timed this

Given some of the TT setups on here I'd say 0-60 would be the same as a stock Z, if not worse. :icon17:

I am betting 0-60 times would be best with STG 2 since it makes a bit less TQ, but has higher HP at the top of the band. With that said, the challenge is going to be putting it to pavement.

I know people are obsessed with 0-60 times thanks to magazines and the like. But in all honesty, 60 ft times in the 1/4 mile tell the true story. So far, people have not been able to get decent 60 ft times due to the lack of traction. In fact, there isn't a single FI car that has a better 60' time than the fastest all motor cars. What do you think that's going to do for 0 - 60 times? If you can't hook up off the line, then your 0 - 60 isn't going to be all that great...just like the 60 ft times.

So what does that mean? 0 - 60 is more about traction and driver ability than it is about horsepower on this platform.

All that said, if you really want the numbers, then you need the equipment and access to a closed track to measure it. But again, since there's two big variables (traction and driver ability) in getting consistent numbers. That means, 0 - 60 times are going to be all over the place and will be utterly meaningless. I mean, if you took a decent size sample of cars with the same horsepower and torque and plotted the data points, the 0 - 60 times would more than likely look like a scatter plot instead of a bell curve and you would not be able to make heads or tails of the data.

The bottom line: your mileage will vary.

soooooo... get a driver mod? lol

I live my life 0-60 miles an hour at a time... Driver mod is just as helpful as some sticky tires if not more IMO

So let me clarify the above question by saying that all other variables such as traction, driver, etc are constant.

Now what do you all think? :ugh2:

N/A 60 ft,, 1.835 1750 rpm stall (present)
304 rwhp to 309 rwhp SAE
1/8 th mile 8.01 @ 89.0
0 to 60 Aprox 3.8 to 3.9 or quicker
1/4 mile 12.42 @ 114.37. 60 ft 1.854
There a guy with a stage 1 SC on here, he posted his 1/8 mile run's im faster than him with my N/A set up.
Now lets add 200 rwhp with the stage 2 SC and now add meth built 7 At, quaffie diff with a 3500 stall converter
1/4 mile times = ?????
i figure 1.792 60 ft with a 11.21 1/4 mile. or quicker.
we will find out this year at the track
I will be at the Z nationals in Oct with the car.

20 km to 120 in my car is scary fast. (2nd to 3rd. gears) will kill any thing at those speeds can not wait for the SCto be installed.
Z

Z y u so fast?

Because he's a baller when it comes to driving. :driving:

That's like marrying a supermodel and then complaining that she likes to sleep naked but you'll reluctantly get used to it.

Holy necro post batman.

I down to 12.342 with N/A And its realy quick. I now have the GTM built 7 At at its even faster. I will be going to the track for i day of N/A and then the stage 2 SC goes on the car.
0 to 60 will be real quick.
Go to the drag section 1/4 mile times last post by Gale Force and i have the vid of my cars tack and spedo dong a 12.4 run. You can see how fast 0to 60 is. Can some one post it in this thread.
Thanks
Z

I've got the stage 1.5 and it is very impressive to say the least,you can see in my signature line how much power the kit can produce,it has better low end torque than the stage 2 with as much on the top end or more in my case.

i see that. nice #s
I have the stage 3 parts on ordere.

You better stop posting and go put your car together!!!:icon17:

How about running a stage 2 with an electronic boost controller, so you can turn down boost? If you run 500whp in a stage 2 in mid boost ranges? Turn the boost down on the controller. That way you can have the best of both worlds. Track monster and street driver??? No?

A lot of good info in this thread...
I have a Stg 1 GTM kit on my HR 350z and I make 430hp and 330tq at 8psi. Which is great, I have a lot of fun with it.
Currently have 5000miles on the kit and 65k on the car.
Last season at the track my buddy is N/A and ran right at low 13's he's pretty good and I had 0 tread on crappy 255 Potenza's and I ran a 12.45 as my best then I got to the point of launching good and shifting great I started getting worse times (12.7-13) because of as Mike said about supporting mods. Now I feel very confident in my shifting and take-offs and I have brand new 295's and lightweight Enkei RPF1's so I'm ready for this season to break into the 11's!
I plan to get the smaller pulley soon to get around 11psi just for fun. I'm still going to the the 8psi for majority of stuff but for my dyno queen # use the 11 and for end of the season races or stuff that's 'more important'. Because last thing is need is to break a rod lol

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