Install my own GTM kit?
 

So here is my question... I have mild-moderate mechanical knowledge...

I installed all the components on my Z myself (exhaust, intake, oil cooler, etc)... also have worked on other cars I have own doing things like clutch/flywheel replacement, engine pulls and reinstalls, nitrous kits, motor mounts, etc.

Is installing a turbo kit something a moderately mechanically inclined person could do? I am nervous about the possibility of blowing my engine as I am not experienced with forced induction. Can I basically do the install and leave the boost inactive and have it tuned to the proper PSI? As you can see I am pretty elementary with this stuff.

If you have done the other stuff as you said you should have no problems.I installed my Greddy twins with the motor in the car and its mostly bolt on parts and stay out of boost till the tuner looks at it.Be prepared for a lot of cussing and launching wrenches across the shop though.......good luck.

You can do it, just give yourself lots of time and focus on it one major component at a time. Dont let yourself get overwhelmed, one part at a time. Do not strip anything out or round off any hardware and you will be fine. Be prepared at any time to have to stop and pickup/order a different tool to allow you to reach something.

You cannot really "leave the boost inactive", however you will find the first time you drive the car that you control the boost with the gas pedal. If you just drive it lightly, it will not spool enough to generate enough airflow to risk hurting the engine. You can just drive it nicely to your tuner of choice. If you purchase the turn-key kit, then in theory you are safe to boost it right away, especially if you have the proper gauges to make sure everything is doing its job. But for those who arent surrounded by this stuff every day, I can imagine being more comfortable letting an experienced tuner with a dyno be the first one to boost the car.

I am not saying it has to take this long at all... but you should give yourself 3 weeks to do it in your spare time. You could do it in a week, it all depends on your experience level and tool set.

grrrr I wanna do the install myself.. not to save money but for the fun of it. I might consider taking a week off of work and doing it...

Matt if you have done all of those things you should have NO PROBLEM with GTM TT kit. They also give you step by step instructions, with pictures. And based on what I've heard, Sam is always happy to help over the phone.

Oh and you can refer to these for reference as well:

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...2-install.html

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ree-style.html

This is the installation manual for a G37 kit, which is pretty much the same:

http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals..._G37_Coupe.pdf

Sounds good guys... when the time comes I think I'll tackle it.

i duno. you think its ok NOT to use your parking brake when you park your Z. what other misconceptions do you have about cars?

jkjk best of luck on the install.

if you've done what you say you've done before, then you should be able to get by with the install, but you have to be extremely careful and be able to anticipate the piping clearances and whatnot. wrap and heatshield everything that is close or even in the near vicinity of heat.

Good thread! Was wondering the same thing myself! Thanks for the info and links guys!

The instruction manual was written for the DIY person. That said, there is a certain amount of common sense that is needed to do the installation. There are times, when you'll really need to stop and think about what you are doing and make sure that you understand what you are doing and why. Knowing how the components interact together is a really big help when doing a DIY install on something like a Twin Turbo kit. I mean, if you don't know how a wastegate works, look it up and learn it. Same goes for the blow off valve. That way, when you're in there routing hoses, you know why we're saying to route them a certain way.

Granted, you can do the install and really not know what it is that you're actually doing and get away with it, but if you put a hose on the wrong nipple and on your first test drive, your car isn't boosting or overboosting, you'll be up the proverbial creek without a paddle because you won't be able to troubleshoot the issue.

Also, keep in mind that the 370Z has a really, really tight engine bay. You are going to be stuffing two turbos and a lot of piping in there. You're going to need some dexterity and special tools to be able to tighten some of the bolts, because they're a real PITA to get to. It's just the nature of the beast.

Here is the link to the 370Z instruction manual:

http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

If you were to pull the motor what is the best way? Drop it from the bottum or pull it from the front. I've seen it done both ways. Does pulling it either way save you from doing something else? Such as if pulled from the bottom you'll need an alignment. Things of this such.

The factory recommends doing it from the bottom. That requires the use of a lift as you rest the cradle on jack stands, unbolt it, remove the miscellaneous hoses, connectors, etc. and suspension components and lift the car off of the cradle. Yes, you will need an alignment afterward. The alignment person needs to be told that the cradle was dropped so they can align the cradle as well.

You can do it from the front, and that requires removing the whole radiator support.

Ultimately, removing the engine from the car isn't going to get you a whole lot of mileage when it comes to installing the turbo kit. The only thing it will make easier is installation of the manifolds and turbos. Then the whole thing needs to go back in the car to install the rest of the kit.

We usually leave the motor in the car for in house installs.

So that being said if you remove the front radiator support and not pull the motor would be the best bet?

Um...not really. That would be a lot of extra work for marginal improvement in accessing the manifolds and turbos. The best bet is leaving the motor in the car and following the instructions.

That said, you can do it whichever way you feel most comfortable.

:tup:

I don't think that at all I would never not use it. I think the people that leave them in gear generally dont. Just my feeling on the matter.

Great points Mike and I would have all intentions of doing my research prior to install or even purchase for that matter. Tools I am def ok with... have a pretty extensive 6'x42" chest. I am not looking to go FI for at least a year or so but this obviously plays into my timing.

I'm surprised to read this. Most shop installs I've seen remove the engine.

Might be a way to charge more. :icon17:

heh yeah. I just printed the manual and I'm reading through it. Very very detailed so far!

I read the install manual probably 100 times before I attempted the install.

It is very good but there were some areas that I though could be better. In my build thread I noted a few areas where there could be an improvement.

I am sure that some of the issues I had were from lack of the proper extensions and universals. I did buy a few more as i was doing the install. Also I think it would've been easier if I had the car on a lift instead of jack stands.

Overall, if you are decently mechanically inclined, the install isn't too bad. The best part has to be the way that it is packaged. GTM makes sure that you don't have parts all over the place during the install. You only open the bag that you need at that time.

That's why I love my lift. Best investment ever. Course it's easier when two go in on it.

Thats because it's much easier to install the kit with the engine removed, its just basically impossible without a lift to do so. The guide was created assuming you were leaving the engine in so that you could install it either way.

The only things that worry me because of limited space are:

-Removal of heat shields/headers/cats (we all know this is PITA)
-Drilling/Tapping the holes on the block (which I've heard the holes are there but you only have to thread them), and oil pan.
-Tightening everything properly with limited space to work with.

LOL I just googled for lifts and a 2 post 4 point lift is about 1.5k. You could buy a lift and do the install yourself and still pay less than if you were to take the car to the shop, provided you already have the tools.

Nah, definitely not close to impossible. It was actually pretty easy to install without a lift. I've done it, as have many others. I think people make it out to be harder than it really is.

I think he meant it was nearly impossible to drop the engine without a lift, not installing the kit without a lift. What is the "GTR Turbo/Engine Gauges" on ur sig modme?

yeah I can see how its misread, I was referring to dropping the engine without a lift

I'll give my two cents. I think I was the first to DIY this on the 370z. When I did mine I had to use the G37 manual, so be thankful there is a z one now. As far as installation there were points where i got over whelmed and had to walk away for a few mins clear my mind. I installed mine on jack stands with motor still in the car. I refered to modme diy if i got stuck, somethings he had and others he didn't. The big thing I would say is start reading the manual now and looking for the drill bits and taps now since they were not very common ones and took me a day or two to get. Other special tool you will need is a 90deg drill so you can drill in to the heads for the new manifold. Not all Z's will have the pre-drilled holes, infact very few have them so plan that yours won't. Read the instructions and go step by step. I kind of rushed through my install since I took a week off from work and honestly wasn't enough time. If I was you I would plan for two weeks to do the install. I know someone said a week but I really don't think it can be done on jack stands. Maybe mine took longer because I am stupid and using the G manual. Also you will need badaids and peroxide so get that while shopping. You also might hace a hard time getting the coolant lines on the turbo tight enough so they don't leak. If you call sam he can give youthe part number to the tool they use which snap on sells it. Good luck was something I enjoyed doing but don't think I would want to do again on my back with out a lift.

I'm looking at the installs... do you remove the front bumper permanently?

No. But it does need to be modified to fit back on.

It does look bad a$$ with it off though.

Thanks. It does look bad a$$ with it off, but my wife noticed The lack of bumper and said no way! now I can let her know it's all good! :tup: