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Youre hitting 11 psi with the 9psi pulley? Dang, I may have to take off my ART pipes. Nice placememt of the boost gauge, it's the same spot I put my wideband.
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however you should note that any increase in temp of exhaust gases will in the long term destroy your stock cats, they simply aren't built for the heat. People have been using catbacks. You should be ok with TP's and not see any loss in power but big issue was matching F.I. + VVEL + aftermarket headers.
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Also BladeZ has a very good point, FI is not meant to be run with stock or aftermarket cats for extended periods of time. You will burn up the cats and can actually clog the pipe causing major issues. |
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Headers can run with either SC kit, both neither company will guarantee better/equal whp numbers with short or long headers as the kits were never tested with those modifications. |
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With using an open setup like I did, though we still hit 8PSI, you could lose pressure overall but the idea is running the system at a more efficient manner. Meaning you lose pressure but still maintain power, this allows you to push tuning and other aspects of the kit farther hitting the same PSI (8 per the original kit) and increase power at a more efficient rate. |
Dreamer is absolutely right. It is not just about making peak boost but making efficient power. Ideally you want to make peak #'s at as minimum boost as possible. I honestly think if Dreamer had gone ahead and retuned the setup for long tube headers there might have been some gains. I have the F.I. Long Tube Headers on my naturally aspirated setup and they provide a big increase in torque throughout the powerband.
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I was thinking about doing the cog set up but I think I am going to see what kind of boost I will get if I just increase the size of the pulley on the back side of the kit that's the pulley connecting directly to the blower pulley
On my mustang vortech setup just a 10% increase in the crank pulley jumped boost up from 12 to 14 on the top end but even better is boost was up all over the rpm range I am seeing 8psi at 4000rpms and 14 psi at 6500rpms on my Stang That's with a v2 vortech 928 impeller +. Water meth. And that pulley size increase a solid 13-14 psi on the top end could be possible I.e if you can keep belt slippage at a min. More boost on the top end more boost you see on the lower end Problem if they crack valve cam thing most of use would have to lower the boost on our cars less we want a new motor |
don't hold your breath for a vvel crack. Last I know of only UpRev has been working on it, its been a tedious and slow procedure (I even heard they blew a motor in the process) and I think there was mention they didn't see any real gains from it (not sure if they tested it with forced induction). I wonder, if someone ran a full standalone setup could they then control VVEL? As it stands there is an ECU for all the "normal" tuning parameters and VVEL has its own control unit. Maybe a standalone could do the job of both.
Personally, the fact that GTM isn't working on it means that Sam believes that he can make plenty power working around VVEL. Moreover, I don't think GTM wants their S/C kits making more than 500-540whp because it would take away from the TT market share. The real loss doesn't come in our limitations on peak HP but torque. Quoting HP numbers is great but no S/C kit is going to anything more than 400tq. That seems to only be possible by TT kits which are mechanically more complex, create more heat and cost more. |
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I hear what you are saying about making power, That was always the case with my turbo cars. make the most effecient power you can, Try not to just run high PSI to make power cause at some point you just spinning hot air, |
No not my car, I believe it was a G37 not a Z.
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ok cool, I wasnt sure if I read that on here or over on myg37?
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