turbo vs s/c
 

Based on GTM price (From their website)
there are only $1,500 difference between Turbo kit and S/C kit.
Then why would so many people are interested in S/C kit?
Is $1500 too much to make a better decision or they just prefer s/c over turbo?
I think turbo kit will be a much better buy for future tuning potential, and driving will be much joyful with turbo than s/c.

Any inputs why people choose s/c will be helpful to make my decision!
Happy new year!!!!

that's what i need to know too.. TT can put down 2x more tq than SC and people still buy SC over TT

There are tons of reasons why one would choose one or the other, its definitely not just price. Although that is a factor. The fact of the matter is that the supporting mods on a TT system are also more expensive and so is the labor. The idea also was that the SC could easily do enough boost to blow the engine, so whats the point of getting the TT. However, like you've said, I don't know that most of us were expecting the torque to be so much lower with the SC kits. If I had the choice over again, I would think more about the TT kit. I would also add that I love my kit and I'm really happy with the way the car behaves. I feel that the power delivery of the SC will add to the long term longevity of the rest of the components like my clutch and transmission. Another thing to mention was that there's a lot less maintenance with the SC and a lot less places for things to go wrong. If you talk to anyone who tracks their car, that's worth soooo much more than the extra torque. I've had turbo cars in the past and loved the torque, but I don't think my SC is not as good, it is just different. It really depends on how you are going to use the car and what your priorities are.

SC is a cheaper install overall. I went with TT setup because I thought it would give me more future HP potential. Base HP/TQ numbers are about the same but TT has more potential for higher boost/HP.

This is arguable though, I change a pulley and get 18psi. Are you planning on running more than 18psi? Not to start a personal heated discussion, but I'm wondering what your view (or anyone's for that matter) on that is.

:iagree: +1

Im holding my horses for now and waiting for GTM stage2 SC

I dont really care about the HP.. 450 HP is more than enough.. but the torque is just not my taste..i mean.. 300 Torque is not enough for "FI project":ugh2:

Maybe after GTM cracks the VVEL we will be able to see 400+ torque in Stage 1. If that what will happen, then ill really consider the SC over TT

Only time will tell.

No SC is not cheaper to install, both TT and SC you will have to remove the engine from the car.

One more question,

with all labor, installation, tuning, how much cheaper is s/c than TT?
Will I be able to use stock clutch w/o having issue?
(I know that stronger clutch will be better tho)

That is incorrect, my engine was never removed for my SC install.

You can run a stock clutch with either for awhile but with a TT install the engine is already out so you may as well upgrade then anyways.
Install/tuning is similar with the TT just requiring the engine to be taken out.

^ and it requires a boost controller and more time on the dyno. There's a lot more hardware to buy for the TT.

TT will also need a clutch upgrade much quicker because of all the torque.

My SC install was done with the engine in the car too.

got a quote of

1300 Stillen SC
1500 GTM SC
3000 GTM TT Stg 2

not counting tuning and dyno time.

only the install?

Wait is this a quote for an install right? Not a whole kit? If so I'll buy it tomorrow if thats the kit price lol!

Yes, some shops will do install/dyno and some will just do install and you use the canned tune to move your car to a shop that tunes.

A lot of miss information in your post, you don't have to install a clutch neither you have to pull the engine out of the car . Here is two basic force induction builds .

TT installed out the door 10899.00

GTM Motorsports*::*POWER PACKAGES*::*GTM VQ35HR/VQ37VHR 500HP Package

SC installed out the door 8164.00

GTM Motorsports*::*PERFORMANCE UPGRADES*::*GTM TURNKEY® PACKAGES*::*GTM-SUPERCHARGER BASIC PACKAGE

Sam

Just out of curiosity, I know some guys have that kind of cash laying around for a big ticket buy. For the others though, do you pull out loans for this? I'm planning on getting the SC kit but only a 3rd of the way saved up and plan on pulling a loan for the rest.

Do not do this, just save the cash and buy it in full when you can.

FYI stock clutch will hold up to 560 RWHP, We have tested it twice. one with a 350HR TT and a G37 TT .

We have many customer with Twin turbo set ups and stock clutches that lasted over 20k .

Sam

It wasn't a for sure thing. It was just a though. Looking at different options thats all. It would only take a year to come up with the rest, but I might just scrap the SC idea after thinking about it that long.

10899 OTD isn't bad for a TT setup. I am going to assume it doesn't come with some of the other miscellaneous things like oil cooler, gauges, boost controller and full exhaust system? Wouldn't it be close to 15k with with miscellaneous things?

No this is a basic install without an exhaust sense most people will add an after market exhaust first .

Sam

Good to know. Thank for the info, Sam.

One way to look at it is it will give you time to plan everything out. You can start planning budgets for both a SC or TT build and what each will require and what you want to do.
This might hold your interest and get you to your goal, if that is what you want.

Thank you Sam. When i said this everyone wanted to flame/bash me. After I gave proof i was still getting smart remarks. If you do the TT install at a shop and the clutch at the same time. The labor charge for the clutch is going to be exactly the same as if they did it then or a year later. Unless you got a really cool shop that will discount it, because replacing the clutch does not require the removal of the engine. I said this plenty of times yet people keep saying to do it at the same time like it is going to be cheeper for you. Also why replace a good part? The stock clutch is able to handle it for a while and you already paid for it when you bought the car, so why not get your worth out of it.
Frank

wow stage 2 gtm installation is double the price of stage one??

why? whats the different :s, I thought its only bigger super charger and different tune.. some1 correct me if im wrong.

He is talking about a stage 2 turbo install.

Sam

how about the slave cylinder?

Man, Sam, if this were true then no aftermarket clutches would be available for this car and no one would have swapped. It seems that all the builds I've seen come out of GTM have an OSG clutch/flywheel combo. Why?

Hell, If something ever happens to my upgraded clutch I'm gonna go back to the stock, per your advice, if that's the case.

I don't doubt you can make it last or that it can last if you rarely put those TT's to work the way they should. I don't mean thrash the car either, good driving means smooth driving, but even so, the stock clutch is not meant to hold 400wtq+ and most will eventually slip if not fail completely. Torque comes early on the tt and as you know that means a whole lot more load and stress on the components. Most of the power is made up top on the SC, hence my comment about the TT needing it sooner.

Now as far as removing the engine. Taking the engine out of the car for a TT install saves money because less time is spent on labor of installing the rest of it. Hence it makes sense to remove it. It's not that you CAN'T, I'm aware that you can, but it will take longer and if you're paying labor that doesn't make any sense. Most of the people who choose to do it with the motor in it tend to be doing it in their garage without a time restraint.

Please don't view this post as a :stirthepot: I was just trying to help the OP with info. You actually kinda proved my point though... you posted links that show a TT install is $3,000 more than the SC. Also Flyboy posted his quotes for the installation of SC vs TT...its twice as expensive just to install the TT.

I don't see what the problem with that is, you also get twice the torque and crazy expandability. TT is a great option, but people should be aware that it will be a little more expensive for various reasons. If you don't think a clutch should be recommended and install should be done with the engine on the car, well that's your well informed opinion. I also don't think saying the opposite is being "full of misinformation".

It's all about giving the customer accurate information so they can make an informed, educated decision. The reason why you see Twin Turbo builds with clutches, is because the customer chose to go that route. It still stands that the factory clutch can hold the power. Of course like anything else, will not hold it forever, but not completely necessary just because you are putting forced induction on the car. You would be better off spending the money somewhere else, like on an oil cooler for example. Also, as far as pulling the engine, it is not necessary when installing a twin turbo kit or supercharger kit for that matter. By doing a clutch at that time, you are incurring additional parts and labor. So would it be a bad idea to install a clutch while installing forced induction? That depends on your driving habits. Obviously dumping the clutch and doing burnouts all the time will require a clutch replacement sooner than someone who drives normally. What kills the factory clutch is not so much torque capacity, but slipping the clutch and burning up the organic friction material. Even a lot of the aftermarket clutches use the factory organic disc, but just modify the pressure plate for "additional torque capacity". That's all good and well, but that doesn't make it more durable, which is the point I'm trying to make. The factory clutch can hold the power, but cannot take a bunch of slipping and dumping. If, down the road (20,000 miles in some cases), you do end up needing a clutch, then it's best to invest in a clutch that doesn't use an organic disc, such as the OS Giken Twin Disk that you can take to the track, abuse it, and still drive home on a very driveable clutch.

Again our shop 370Z with our supercharger kit still has the original factory clutch, even with all the testing and customer test drives its endured.

Sam

We had a great luck with the factory slave cylinder so far, But if would not be a bad idea to upgrade it while you are there.

Sam

^The way I understand it, the upgraded hydraulics are a fix when a heavy aftermarket pressure-plate is used, no?

If you stay with the OEM, then you can use the OEM slave and expect un-changed durability. If it would die OEM, it will die with your TT setup, as it doesn't see any change in force as long as you stay OEM on the clutch.

From what I am understanding you to say, Sam, is that the OEM clutch will handle all the power of the TT setup, it will just wear faster than aftermarket when you subject it to a lot of slip/high-rpm launches, etc.

Did I miss the boat?

How about the transmissions/rear-ends on these cars? I know the manuals sometimes have syncro issues, but that would be un-related to power and more related to whether you got a lemon or not from Nissan, right? Syncro's don't see tq, just rpm and rotating assy. mass if I am not mistaken.

So from what I gather, you should get the same life out of your OEM clutch with a TT setup as with a OEM engine, if you don't drop the clutch all the time. The reason I say that I see it this way, is that if the clutch will hold 450whp, then it's not slipping at 7,000rpm. If it's not slipping, no wear is occuring. The only time it slips is at launch for the most part. If you don't beat the hell out of it on DR's/slicks, the OEM width street-tires will give up way before the clutch does. So, using this logic, you are telling me the OEM clutch is just fine on a 450whp 370Z, correct?