We've been discussing the project, and after exploring solutions to the tuning, JimmyK has agreed that the smartest thing is for us is to work with Sam and GTM for the tune. He's done it a gazillion times, it's correct and I don't have the need to keep fussing with it (This would have been the benefitr of the Haltech).

Get it right once, and then just drive it like I stole it.... ;)

I've printed the lengthy and comprehensive manuals from GTM, and the tech (Hector) is as excited as I am to get going. He's good, and meticulous.

So far, so good.

Coop

Progress report
 

Hector has been working carefully on the TT install, and is making good progress. He is a careful tech and on something new, he will ponder rather than rush. I agree.

He's got the entire exhaust off, the new manifolds on, and the turbos fitted.

http://www.fototime.com/6A383C4F41F822E/orig.jpg

Here he's drilled and has fitted the crucial oil return line fittings:

http://www.fototime.com/FBA9BB29EB6EF28/orig.jpg

He's done even more stuff, but I was too busy myself over in the trans dept. to pay closer attention.

This week is a vacation week for me from my OTHER two jobs (Coach/maintenance in a rowing club, and a photographer) so I had time to ponder myself. Jimmy is ALWAYS busy as the shop owner, and lets me do whatever I need if I am capable.

In this regard, I decided to tackle the Trans-Go 5-speed shift kit on my own. I was a career mechanic for fifteen years as a M/C tech, so this actually looked like fun. :) I brought a table, my tools, some cardboard, and a LOT of patience.

Here's the trans on the stand.
http://www.fototime.com/86A590F522B998E/orig.jpg

Pan off, valve body exposed.
http://www.fototime.com/2900236516F04FF/orig.jpg

The provided instructions were VERY supportive and clear. But, you had to really pay attention to the order of the steps and NOT mix up all the bolts. An old trick I used to use was a simple piece of cardboard with the holes template punched in it with a screwdriver.

This keeps things in order and verifies the reassembly.
http://www.fototime.com/6EBCF5566FD3A01/orig.jpg

Here's the unit on the bench. There are a ton of little filters and balls and springs which can get away, if you move too fast.
http://www.fototime.com/6972D13EDAAA48B/orig.jpg

Once down, I replaced (3) plungers, and added (9) extra springs. Then they give you a selection of incremental drills with a diagram of which holes to enlarge on the valve body separator plate. Don't bungle this!
http://www.fototime.com/3034B99ED4650F2/orig.jpg

Here is what was left after the NEW parts were installed:
http://www.fototime.com/07A24A6EB999A35/orig.jpg

Reassembly was in reverse order, but paying even closer attention and careful placements.

Start-finish it took me about 5 hours. I am sure I took at least two+ hours longer than a confident trans tech would have. I had no glitches in the process, and made sure everything was spotless and washed out. I'm proud of my work and can say with confidence it's done as they ask.

I saved them a bunch of time, and ME a bunch of money. Of course I am now liable. He he he!

Anyway, I promised a build thread and you're getting it.

Coop

You didn't pull the engine?

No. With lifts, you can work around this.

Coop

<-----anxiously asks for, Updates?!?!??!?

We've been busy since the last post, but had a long holiday weekend. These things take time, even with no snags. Hector has barely had any other project on his lift and he's about 80% done.

We ordered a set of colder plugs from Sam today and had him ship them next day. They are special plugs, as you know. It's possible that fire up will come tomorrow, but probably wed. He's got to put them in before final upper pipes.

We need to get some hose for the BOV recirc. tubes. (My request. Hushhhh quiet.)

I drove to the local Nissan dealership and picked up 14 qts. of 'Matic-S'. Sam recommended nothing but.

Jimmy asked me if I was excited and jumpy, as I'm stopping by often. :happydance:

Actually, no. I'm more concerned with correct assembly than going for the initial rides. I'll have years to savor that. I am doing what I can (as errand boy and P/T tech) to help this forward.

News as we do. :tiphat:

Coop

Still in-progress.

Plugs arrived from CA to CT by 10am. Auto trans is back in, and I provided some flex hose for the BOV recirc tubes.

Here's some shots:

Both oil and trans coolers installed behind the Intercooler. Nice and tidy.
http://www.fototime.com/333BD38E28E1429/orig.jpg

Here is a shot of the spacers provided for extra clearance for.... something. :confused:
http://www.fototime.com/F5FDE8F7F332D05/orig.jpg

Here's the oil junction block and relocated oil filter.
http://www.fototime.com/27E99895AD06269/orig.jpg

I ordered a set of the CAT 'test pipes'. Sam thought I already had them, and I thought they were in the package. A slight delay, but they will be here on friday. Thankfully GTM has them in stock! :)

Onward.

Coop

Looking good...

The spacers you have pictured work hand in hand with the spacers that space the whole steering rack down slight to achieve a better angle on the steering column for clearance on the drivers side turbine housing.

As far as the oil cooler placement, i'll have ask why you didn't mount them like GTM does or at least change out that bottom fitting with either a 45° or 90°? Just looks like that hose has a lot of stress right at the bottom port of the cooler because of angle of the fitting vs angle of the hose.

The other concern i have is the hoses running under that part of the sway bar. That sway bar is going to move down as you put weight on the suspension, and move even more as the suspension compresses over bumps and such.

Hector did not have any photos in the manual for the oil cooler placements. He asked Sam to send him some, but none arrived by the time he needed to get it done. (Next day).

Where are they?

Coop

I just tried to find some pics, but couldn't find anything for you regarding the oil lines running around the sway bar, but i'll try to describe the original idea of how they would run. The 90° fittings should face outward in the same direction as the oil filter. The sandwich adapter would rotated to put these fittings to the back of the engine against the cross member (they should have good clearance still however). This does two things: it allows you to secure the oil lines to the cross member and keep them above the sway bar, and allows easier oil changes than having those lines in the way. The lines can then route between the frame rails (with your intake) or below the bottom frame rail and secure to the bottom of it.

The cooler itself originally was suppose to sit similar to

http://i313.photobucket.com/albums/l...0HAMMOND/6.jpg

You obviously don't have the same cooler, nor the Nismo brace but you get the idea. Cooler mounting really isn't critical, it just looked like the mounting position put a bit of strain on that bottom fitting. The biggest concern i had when i saw that part of the install was the movement of the sway bar in regards to the oil lines.

Hopefully that helps a bit.

+1 FTS, thank you for putting that out there. I didnt notice the lines going under the sway bars until you said something and then made me worried also...nice save, keep on the build sharpbycoop!! :tup:

^^^ Thanks for this. I will print out the post and bring it to him for review. We may find a compromise, but I am appreciative of the concern.

I can't be there all the time, and allow freedom of build to the tech. When I was a tech, I always found different ways of tackling the same job. As long as it doesn't eat into oil lines.... :eek: :icon14:

I left them alone yesterday. I'll drop in today to see whasssup.

Coop

I'm just glad you didn't take it the wrong way and hopefully Hector won't either. Not trying to set on any ones toes so to speak.

Back up from the vacation and pause...

The car is all together, ready for tuning. (GTM tune installation)

John Visconti, the tuner, could not get the ECU to be recognized by the laptop and UPREV software. It would read the BCM, so the cable is working, but the ECU will only show on the screen AFTER the ignition is turned off. (John said the ECU is the last one to power down?)

John was on the phone with Sam @ GTM for a long time. They even had a screen sharing program so Sam could see the complications. (Sam, please fill in what I am misinforming?)

Jimmy thinks it may be an immobilized lockout, and he's asked me if I had any concerns when working the connectors in the trans. No, I didn't, but I am open for any possibility.

So, to any tuners out there: has this ever occurred on your builds?

Jimmy may take it to the dealer, to plug in their computer.

We are all stumped, and paralyzed right now. That's the scoop.

Jim