I have more in my motor than most have in their entire TT upgrade. LOL We roll alike, over the top. I don't know how to half arse anything. Since I had to do it twice, I have 2 times as much. SOB!!!!!!

This all day long!!!! It took five years and numerous track days before my stock motor gave up the ghost. I was religious about maintenance and only tracked her at 500 to 525 whp. A good tune, regular maintenance and controlled beating on the motor and you will get years of enjoyment.

That's why I am keeping mine at just under 500. Plenty of power.

Ok.......I'm going to throw my 2 cent in. You don't need a blueprinted motor. Just install the FI Stage 4 set up with the required fuel and fuel mods on a stock block. Guarantee it will make a 1000HP with a good tune. I dealt it will survive the dyno session tho. :rofl2:

I think hotrodz and spooler mention a very good point, which is supportive mods.

When i was done doing the turbo and engine mods, the platform felt out of balance. Its one thing to do a 100-200kph pull on the highway, but another thing to use its full potential of all the new horsies on a canyon road.

So.. i needed to upgrade the suspension, swaybars, camber arms, diff, diff brace, engine and trans mounts, brakes, cooling, etc. Which adds another god knows 10k or so. But its very rewarding when you testdrive a Porsche 997 GT3 and think.. nope.. keeping the Z

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I was being sarcastic

So am I. You know how fast that motor would go BOOM! :rofl2:

Hopefully mine will be one & done :tiphat:

I've personally seen 520 WHP last almost 8 years from a early GTM TT kit. Unfortunately he had a vacuum line let go last year and I had to refresh the kit and swap in a used Q50 motor.

500 WHP can definitely be reliable, and so can 600whp. Totally depends on supporting mods, the tuner, and the driver.

My car made 670 WHP with my GTR Turbos but I had approx 15k into it (all DIY) with all the needed supporting mods including R888rs, CSC, Flywheel, 6 puck clutch, quality rotors and pads, CJM fuel system, CJM rails, Walbro 525LPH, hardwire kit, diff cover, OS Giken LSD, and my favorite set of injectors (ID 1300x).

It can be easily done cheaper, but definitely not going to be enjoyable or reliable. 700 WHP can also be very reliable with a stock block, but only if you keep the torque under 550~ ft/lbs on a dynojet.