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wow , I bet the 4.5L spools thoses turbos up fast!:yum:
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hehehehe I cant wait to get my 4.5L Stroker muahahahaha
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keep in mind that was a 4.2L stroker kit on a VQ35DE. imagine with another 0.3 and all those extra revs! :yum::drool:
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So I know I could look it up but I am at work and don't need to spend time researching stroker kits....
Could someone please sum up a stroker kit for me? How do you go from 3.7L to 4.5L? |
a lot of it has to do with the crank. the kit also includes pistons and rods.
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I figured pistons and rods, I guess I just don't know enough about engines to understand it. So when I talk to people I would tell them I have a 4.5 liter V-6 instead of a 3.7 liter after getting the stroker kit installed? So after turbos, oil cooler, and stroker kit, someone could be runnin a lot of oil through this machine? right or wrong?
I'm just tryin to make sure I understand |
GT Motorsports® Hi-Rev Crank :96 mm stroke
GT Motorsports®-spec Arias®/Wiseco® Stage II FI pistons GT Motorsports® Rods Bore: 96mm (optionally 100mm bore with Darton MID sleeves) Final Displacement (exact): 4.5 L The 87.0mm stroke affords a major advantage; it can be dropped into an unmodified (i.e. unsleeved) block with no need for longer sleeves (that have to be notched to preserve the oil jets), as is the case with the 90mm stroke crank. The Hi-Rev crankshaft is currently available only in 87.0mm stroke variety, with 90mm and 81.4mm (stock) stroke varieties becoming available in the next six weeks. --- all from their page |
is there any other engine modification required for the stroker kit?
i can understand that with aftermarket pistons and rods, it will have a greater displacement....... sorry for being ignorant, but just curious. and, how much do these kits cost in general on average? installation cost? |
Contact GTM for pricing and other info. They had a thread on this a while back, I'll go look for it.
GTM Motorsports*::*ENGINE INTERNALS*::*GTM 4.2 L Stroker kit-For the VQ35HR & VQ37VHR GTM Motorsports*::*ENGINE INTERNALS*::*GTM 4.5 L Stroker kit-For the VQ35HR & VQ37VHR 'Bout $6K for parts only. The pistons in these kits appear to be for Forced Induction applications (probably 8.5:1-ish compression.) |
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Vipor,
thanks......:tiphat::tup: endless lust for more power :bowrofl: |
Wow Vipor.. you blew my little mind... So can you explain to the ignorant <---- what the difference would be in the end with the 87mm stroke vs. the 96mm stroke? I'm clueless.
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stroke is how far the piston moves from top to bottom based off of the height of the piston, the length of the rods, and the shape of the crankshaft. the longer the stroke, the more displacement. it's an alternative to boring out the motor ("bore it out x-over", ie. 40-over) so that can displacement can be increased without milling the block.
if you notice in the text i quoted earlier the stock stroke of the motor is 81.4mm while the kit bumps it up to 87mm and they are working on a 90mm. i'm not a mechanic, so this is my understanding. don't be too critical :tiphat: |
IC... I definitely appreciate the explanation... This sounds like something any decent mechanic could do right?
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anyone comfortable with pulling apart a new motor. i'd recommend a quality shop that knows the motor. like GTM, since they make the parts and have some awesome work with even the GTR.
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Thanks for the advice... So probably not the guys that would charge me $45/hr out of their garage? lol
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uhm, yeah... those are called "exhaust guys" lol
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HOW what? and Wiki who? I don't get it Sam...maybe its a Dubai thing... all that oil gettin to your head!
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The stock stroke on our 370's is 86mm, so it wouldn't be a significant upgrade going to the 87mm stroker crank that is currently available. You would only gain 43cc using the 87mm stroker crank. If one were to spend that much money on engine internals, might as well go big with the 96mm crank and the 100mm bore to get 4,524cc.
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or just have the darton sleeves installed with the 100mm bore and besides having a block you couldn't blow up you would have around 4.2l
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I guess someone can't take a joke, but that's their own business. I just happen to have always liked Dubai and did many research papers on the area in college. I would hope that I could point it out on a map Sam, but couldn't promise you anything. If you haven't noticed, this isn't the first time I've given you **** about Dubai. Like I said, I just happen to like the area... Enjoy yourself on those beautiful roads.
And to follow up on your "ignorance" comment. I know that some questions are just ridiculous and I guess each person has there own opinion on what an ignorant comment is based on there knowledge of a certain topic, but it was simply a joke... sorry if I offended you with my sarcasm..... 1 |
kiss and make up.
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No offence taken :) |
I need to patent a sarcastic font.
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yeah the lack of tone expressed through forums and texting really is a pain but i think thats why they invented this =:rolleyes:;)
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Semi-on-topic: How can I put 20 psi to my Z? .........lol jk sorry there's that sarcasm again. but for real: I'm a newb and I know this is a dumb question but I just want to know if I understand this right... If I lower the compression on my engine to go some sort of F.I. route the purpose is to make it safer to run boost/more boost/lots of boost? and when you lower compression on a N/A engine, will it lower horsepower (without F.I.)? |
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Thank you once again for the answer... that was what I thought but I wasn't positive... and the engine would be like 10X's more reliable running boost as oppose to stock compression with boost?...
Reliability is just a big concern for me when it comes to the F.I... I feel like I know a lot about cars but I'm sure it just barely scratches the surface when it comes to being able to understand or let alone, work on my own turbo vehicle. I'd really like a reliable 450 horses... I hope one of these companies can do it for me. |
You can never know it all about cars, my professor back in uni had a PhD in internal combustion engine and I still corrected him in a few circumstances lol Then you walk into some threads over at my350z and I swear you feel like you don't know anything about cars.. we all live n learn.. and the best way to do that is to research and read, trust me.. it works :D
As for reliability on a stock block, you really don't want to go crazy a nice 6-8 psi with the stock compression and you should be fine. |
it's not volumetric efficiency that will remain unchanged (amount of air entering the cylinders relative to actual displacement) you just lose overall efficiency because it won't burn as explosively with the reduced pressure(less horsepower per liter) higher compression yeilds higher fuel economy and about a 5% increase in power for every point of compression added without adjusting timing. So if you ran 12:1 compression without detonating you would see about a 5% increase in power. Similarly if you dropped from 11 to 9:1 you would lose 10% of your power but you would be able to run enough boost to more than make up for it. Say the highest psi you could run on the stock motor was 10 making 600hp, you go to 9:1 you would only make 540hp. but if you added another 10 psi thanks to your reduced compression allowing it to not detonate you could make 795hp. if you run that same 20psi on a motor with higher compression you could make 834 on 10:1 or 874.5hp on 11:1 but it would probably detonate and blow up.
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Lol lol <------ (mind blown)
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Over 800
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