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-   -   Car doesn't start after supercharger installation (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/132112-car-doesnt-start-after-supercharger-installation.html)

DrBacon 10-02-2019 10:57 PM

Car doesn't start after supercharger installation
 
Now this one has me quite a bit stumped. I mostly wrapped up the installation of the supercharger earlier today, at least to the point where it can idle and it ran pretty good actually considering it's on the base tune and everything. I let the car run for a few minutes and turned it off to check everything, ran it again for another few minutes and turned it off once again, I changed nothing, it sat for a few hours and when I tried to start it for the third time to get the idle data logging done the car cranked for about half a second and just stopped. Repeated attempts at trying to start the car did nothing, no cranking of the starter or anything. I have put the battery up to a charger and it is fully charged, I've checked a bunch of fuses, even replaced the battery in my key fob. When the ignition is on, the radiator fans start running and I don't remember that happening before but I could be wrong. I tried to connect to the ecu with my ecutek dongle and it doesn't connect anymore, so it seems the ecu either isn't getting power or some how is fried. Honestly I have no idea what's going on with it.

kinitox 10-03-2019 03:09 AM

Are you running a pure stillen base tune? Did you verify the log or codes from ecu before start? What was your last log?

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DrBacon 10-03-2019 03:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kinitox (Post 3881168)
Are you running a pure stillen base tune? Did you verify the log or codes from ecu before start? What was your last log?

Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk

The tune is from specialityz. I can't pull codes as there's no connection on obd2 to the ecu.

kinitox 10-03-2019 03:51 AM

Then call directly to seb, he will give an excellent support by phone. I just install a A2A from scratch no experience and it was a totally turn key project with no issue in tune of any kind. He will help you on that just take your time FI is a patience game.

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DrBacon 10-03-2019 03:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kinitox (Post 3881171)
Then call directly to seb, he will give an excellent support by phone. I just install a A2A from scratch no experience and it was a totally turn key project with no issue in tune of any kind. He will help you on that just take your time FI is a patience game.

Enviado desde mi CLT-L29 mediante Tapatalk

I already sent him an email, but I am also asking on the forums in case others have experienced something similar, research has lead me no where so far. I don't think it's tune or even the kit in general related, honestly I have no idea what happened. If I had to guess I would say some bad wiring, except I did no wiring except for the fuel pump which was actually pretty simple (and that would've just blown a fuse I believe, not potentially killed the ECU). It's pretty strange.

kinitox 10-03-2019 04:06 AM

My best recommendation is wait until tomorrow and call seb, he will help for sure. Did you check the wiring from/to ECU? Did you check if we'll conected to the BCM? (That one below the globe pocket in passenger side) or verify if air bag module it's right conected? Keep in mind you have to removed several parts of the interior to reach fuel pump and make all changes and maybe just maybe you touch the car wiring and disconnect something or broke any wire.

In my case to access and make a clear fuel pump work me removed the seats and part of the interior, disconnect baterry and check all wires touched before and after installation to be sure we are doing right with a probe.

If there is no fuse or wire damage the it's maybe something it's not plugged right.

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SouthArk370Z 10-03-2019 06:05 AM

First thing I'd check is where the connectors plug into the ECM. Make sure there are no bent pins and the connectors are plugged in tight. FSM (link in sig) may be helpful.

DrBacon 10-03-2019 05:29 PM

It's something with the injectors. I did a glance over the fuses again and noticed the injector fuse was blown, so I took it out and swapped in a new one and didn't even try to start the car, just turned the ignition on and it blew the new fuse too. Now the question is how?

SouthArk370Z 10-03-2019 05:52 PM

Shouldn't be that hard to track down with an ohmmeter and a wiring diagram (FSM).

TBatt 10-04-2019 09:50 AM

What injectors are you using?

WhiskeyHotel 10-04-2019 10:24 AM

Most injectors run a 12V source hot (key on) all the time. The ECU grounds the other pin to fire the injector. It sounds like you have a hard short to ground in the harness or an injector. Start by disconnecting the injector harness and see if it still blows the fuse. Divide and conquer.

(Typical injector impedance is 10-12 Ohms, so they should pull about 1 Amp if they are working properly.)

DrBacon 10-04-2019 06:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3881480)
What injectors are you using?

ID 1050x

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyHotel (Post 3881484)
Most injectors run a 12V source hot (key on) all the time. The ECU grounds the other pin to fire the injector. It sounds like you have a hard short to ground in the harness or an injector. Start by disconnecting the injector harness and see if it still blows the fuse. Divide and conquer.

(Typical injector impedance is 10-12 Ohms, so they should pull about 1 Amp if they are working properly.)

Yep that's the plan, unfortunately to do anything I have to pull that stupid *** stillen manifold off to get to anything which I'm not looking forward to. I never did any custom wiring with the injectors either, used a plug and play connector. Seems that may have not been the best idea

WhiskeyHotel 10-04-2019 10:03 PM

Yeah, I feel your pain. And you can probably bet that your problem is under that sucker. You might be able to do a visual inspection of sorts with a cheap inspection camera. I used one to help me tighten two of the manifold bolts under that thing....at least I could see them. Hope all goes well.

DrBacon 10-04-2019 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyHotel (Post 3881573)
Yeah, I feel your pain. And you can probably bet that your problem is under that sucker. You might be able to do a visual inspection of sorts with a cheap inspection camera. I used one to help me tighten two of the manifold bolts under that thing....at least I could see them. Hope all goes well.

Indeed the problem was on the passenger side fuel rail under the manifold. Got it all taken apart and found one of the wires some how got pinched and broke the insulation on one of the metal fuel rail brackets (that little circleish thing? I have no idea what it is, but there's one per fuel rail). The wire it's self still seems fine, tested it with a voltmeter, so I'm just going to apply some of that liquid electrical insulating stuff to it and hope for the best. If everything goes smoothly should have the car running again by tomorrow, I hope.

DrBacon 10-06-2019 12:37 AM

Car is back together and running again, thank you everyone for the help and suggestions.


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