Sounds like you’re in need of a Turnkey job....Spooler mentioned SOHO, as he has a nice single turbo kit; unsure total cost or installation time & Z1 could install & tune whatever you wanted.
Heck- you can tune in a 50-100 NOS shot; for a quick blast every now & again :ugh2:

Maybe my wording is in accurate ....but at 2500 rpm on a supercharger there virtually no boost ... it does build evenly through out the rpm range which is smooth and strong and yes 3200 rpm on a turbo is when boost comes on ....but ... it you are running the car hard are you really under 3200 rpms when you shift ..no you’re not so where is the lag when you shift above 3200 rpm it’s just a increase in boost/power which is more aggressive ....but I would look more closely at a supercharger boost output at 2500 rpm and compare that to the stock engine out put ..very little if any difference ...in a larger v8 motor yes there would be more of a noticeable increase at a lower rpm.....and when I referred to having both I wasn’t meaning at different times on my car I had two cars with both at the same time and believe me I compared them closely back to back to decide on which to keep ...comparing my supercharger dyno 3k rpm was only 1lb of boost sooo at 2500 rpm more or less nothing

I guess more accurate way of putting it would be in a supercharger you can floor it and have a consistent increase of boost .....but in a turbo if you floor it the boost increase can be instant to max ...hence the sudden “on” feeling ..I have gotten use to controlling it with the pedal ....and for his needs the supercharger would fit him better

While I agree with you Jinxx, for what he wants the centrifugal is his best bet. The linear power delivery will be more predictable when his wife drives it.

Agreed

I believe you stated one thing in your first post, then contradicted it in your second.

You said there is no surge initially, now said it does.

I was the one who said I had both kits.

At any rate, I agree with your second post.

I never said there wasn’t a surge .. I was referring to the “lag” .. boost is more aggressive on the turbo .. I don’t consider it a lag and hit feel on the Z cars with newer kits . That was the intent I was getting to ... and definitely no lag when shifting

It’s not number one on the list, but happy wife, happy life and all that...

Happy wife or you might be back to this.
This is like finding out about masturbation for the first time again..

You're obviously married too....

Actually, I'm not. How do you think I can blow all my money on cars. :rofl2:

I've been running the Stillen/TopZ system for several years now and about 8K miles problem free. Here is what I have observed:

My SC is setup with the 9psi pulley on the SC. At ~3000 rpm the SC is just starting to output more air than the engine is taking in. I can tell because the boost gauge is showing zero pressure and the blow off valve is starting to open and hiss. This equates to about 80mph steady cruise. So, if you have a MT6 you will need to down shift to third if you want maximum boost or fourth gear if you want to be easy on the tranny syncros. When the engine hits red line (7500) it will be making max boost and power. The engine will drop rpm by about 1500rpm when you grab the next higher gear. Now you are down from max power but at the power levels we are at you get to the next gear pretty fast.

Turbos cars need load in order to produce boost. So at the 3000 rpm range the turbos will spool up and provide lots of torque without down shifting. This could be very damaging to your engine as we all know these engines do not hold up well when producing a lot of torque. A down shift with the turbo car is needed as well to get the most power and in this case ease the load on the engine. Now here is where a big difference occurs between SC and turbo cars. During a shift, the SC and boost is exactly where the rpm is. No lag, it is directly driven by the engine. Turbos, on the other hand, will actually spool down during a shift and have to accelerate back up. That is why most guys use a automatic tranny for drag racing. Depending on the turbo setup, this can cause some on and off power delivery.

Cars that have sophisticated turbo systems (Porsche, GTR) get around some of this with careful design and darn good engineering. They can feel like a big ol' V8 on the low end and they have control to not over torque if you don't downshift.

Anyways, enough of my two cents worth. I love SC and if you drive "normal" the car drives perfectly normal and if you put your foot in it it responds like a stock car until the rpms get up. No sudden surprises with unexpected boost. Safe.

I get a tickle out of you guys arguing about turbo charging and super charger differences. It is quit entertaining.

I’m up to page 75 of Aaron’s “topguns” a2a thread. I’m literally bleary eyed...

I’m hoping my install goes smoother than yours. You’re the guy with the J pipe that wouldn’t fit right?

There have been a lot of modifications to this kit since it's inception. The L pipe will fit right up.

Yes, my install was the first as a clean install. All of the others up to that point were replacing the water system with the A2A. Also, Aaron was just getting into production and that always has some teething pains. At the beginning, his kit included a 45° pipe that would work but the clocking on the SC volute had to be perfect. He has since then gone to a 60° that is much more forgiving.

He has come a long way from where he started! My input, as well as others that were helping him develop the kit, were paving the way for you. We had some initial issues but all of them have been resolved.

You just can't imagine what his kit does for the Z. Perfectly stock driving experience until you get on it and then good luck trying to get the rear tires to hook up. My rear tires will spin at 80mph with WOT and I'm running 305s.:eek:

Not so much arguing as it is discussing. The end result of both is more power but a different way to get there and a different driving experience.

A factory turbo car these days is pretty well sorted out and the fact that it has a turbo is well hidden because of the sophistication of the system. Adding a turbo to a NA car does not give you the same integrated driving experience. It is more raw (which can be awesome).

A SC installed on a NA car is just a smoother driving experience to me.

One thing that I have noticed with turbos is how they handle hills when cruising on the highway/interstate. As soon as the engine starts to get a load on it due to going up hill the turbos spool up and give more power. The SC cars don't do that.

Either way you go it is gonna' be fun!:driving:

The rawer it is the more I like it. I don't want something anybody can drive fast. I want something you have to work at it. The satisfaction is much greater. Plus, I grew up with RAW like most of the old farts on here. LMAO. I guess that is why I like the older 911 GT2RS's or an F40. It wants to kill me, great, give it here.

I got to drive the first generation 930 turbo and that car was a hoot! The owner told me that as soon as the tach hits 4000 rpm, shift. I still would hit the rev limiter. The time it took the engine to go from 4000 rpm to redline was less than a second. That car was a handful!

So, after a ton reading it’s my understanding that This is going to melt my stock cats. Unfortunately, test pipes are a deal breaker for me. My HOA measures the length of my lawn, so I’m going to go out on a limb and say they aren’t going to be pleased with an open exhaust.

I’m running a FI CBE with 12” resonators, stock manifolds and cats and get the stink eye every time I cruise the hood now, mostly due to its Hilly and there’s just now way to get in or out of here “quietly”.

Do I have options other than test pipes? Will this melt Quality HFC’s?

Is there a quieter solution?

PS: unfortunately, moving is not an option at this time.

FI sells lead pipes with 100 cell mil spec cats welded in. They help a little bit. You still need to run test pipes. I run Art pipes. That's really about the best you can imo.

I went with Berk HFC and burned them out in less then two years, went to ART pipes and haven't looked back . They really aren't any louder then my HFC were just a deeper sound and they WONT burn out.

Run resonated test pipes. FI sells them.

Vote for Art Pipes. Definitely quieter. Quality workmanship.

I swapped my Berk Cats out for the ART pipes and to me they sounded identical.

If you want to keep things tame then use a Nismo exhaust with the ARTS. It will not be any louder than your current setup and you will still have really good flow.

Like redondoaveb mentioned - FI sells exhausts with mil-spec cats farther downstream. Alternatively, you can just buy mil-spec cats and have any 'jim-bob's mufflers and handyjay's' type of shop weld them in for you. There are definitely cats out there that an handle the boosted environment, just none off-the-shelf for our cars since <1% of hobbyists would want them.

Turbos are actually very effective mufflers as it turns out. My car ended up a lot more quiet than I thought it would be... though I am running the Invidia cat-back which I believe is on the quieter end as well.

Ok, thanks guys for talking me off the ledge... I’ll have to do some more research, but at least I have options.

A really, REALLY stupid question.... I see a lot of guys that don’t run their SC’d cars with the threat of rain.

Is this because of traction issues or because of water getting sucked up by the SC?

I got caught in pouring rain with the turbo guard screen on and was really concerned. When I got home I popped the hood and there was no water on the core support near the blower. Blower was completely dry.

@topgunz

Do you know off the top of your head if Z1 has ever installed one these kits? Any problems? I’m having second thoughts due to their Uprev tuning as opposed to Ecutech.

While they are relatively local, they're not exactly around the corner. It looks like it takes a couple of flashes to get the tune right, and I really don’t have the time (nor ambition) to drive 90 minutes (both ways) if 5hit is going to go south.

I’m not down on them, they did a great job for me, but I’m a little skittish about stuff I know nothing about.

Ok, so water is a concern? Only asking because it’s my DD, and gets wet. My days of waiting under overpasses for storms to pass were over when I sold my last Harley. 🤪

It was a concern since it was the only time I got caught in the rain and didn't know if water could reach the sc. Once I saw that water got nowhere near the sc, it's not a concern anymore.

Brah, I'll say this once and once only.
My stupid *** decided to (as soon as I got the Stillen SC in my car back when I had the red Z before any other mods was done to it)... I took that thing for a spin and dare I say ...

I went as crazy as going 140 MPH in the rain on the highway coming from an on ramp entering the freeway around 10 PM at night. I'll never forget that night. The tires slipped as soon as I gassed it and surprisingly caught traction the entire rest of the way -- and mind you the rain was pouring hard that night.

Long story short -- Supercharger was dry (:

Will I ever attempt that crazy feat again? HAIL NAWH!
Do I feel good about surviving it and was I lucky? HAIL YEAH!

Yeah that was stupid

Thanks xD

And then there was the time I got “air” in my 1976 pinto with four of us in it.

One being my future wife. She still won’t let me live it down.

I wouldnt worry about rain. Has anyone seen the BP kit??? That filter sits under the car and there have never been any issues. I had that kit and I ran it in the rain. Guys purposely inject water into their intake systems to cool the intake charge. Do not fear the rain.

Now traction in the rain is a completely different story. I had Toyo R888's and I went into a complete hydroplane going 55 mph. Dont drive like an idiot and idiotic things wont happen.

The BP and older GTM. Superchargers kits have filters very low .... I daily drive both and didn’t think twice about the rain ... you shouldnt have any issues ... traction on the other hand can be a issue if you get aggressive with it ... but normal driving is safe