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-   -   A few issues with my Stillen supercharger (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/126842-few-issues-my-stillen-supercharger.html)

Bikeracer1098 05-09-2018 01:09 PM

A few issues with my Stillen supercharger
 
Bought a 2016 370z Nismo which has had a stillen supercharger fitted along with the smaller 9lb pulley.
During the conversion which was done at around 1200miles, it also had the following Parts fitted - uprated fuel pump, fuel return system, ID 725cc injectors, UPrev GT MAFs, bypass valve, thermostatic oil cooler, ECUTek remap, Xtreme single puck clutch, gearbox oil cooler, diff oil cooler, cobra catback exhaust, japspeed decats, and uprated brakes.

Done around 1800miles in the last 6 weeks and whilst Car drives well, acceleration from 2000-3700RPM doesn’t feel as strong as the dyno graph suggests.

https://s6.postimg.cc/coxd8t3tt/DF31...DB20556_A8.jpg

Recently the car has struggled to accelerate from around 2200 RPM during the first 4 miles and also the engine cut out twice whilst deaccelerating towards a junction.

Also on a few occasions whilst pulliing away from a cold start the revs rose to around 2500RPM

Car seems to run OK at the moment apart from not acccelerating as hard as I would expect from 2000-3700RPM

The company who installed the Parts and did the mapping are busy for the next 3 weeks.

Any suggestions? Could it be a faulty MAF etc

Thanks

turtle64b 05-09-2018 08:58 PM

I don't think the Uprev MAFs play with the Ecutek tune...

7ssain 05-10-2018 05:25 AM

if you have the Ecutek cable or bluetooth ecu connect.. i would take few logs and send them to a well known tuner who is familiar with this platform for a review.. he will be able to tell u if its something in the tune or ur having some sort of mechanical issue

Bikeracer1098 05-10-2018 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 7ssain (Post 3754313)
if you have the Ecutek cable or bluetooth ecu connect.. i would take few logs and send them to a well known tuner who is familiar with this platform for a review.. he will be able to tell u if its something in the tune or ur having some sort of mechanical issue

Thanks for the advice.
Haven’t got the ECUtek cable or connect but got the car booked into the tunner who mapped the car on the 30th May.

ihiryu 05-10-2018 04:08 PM

It doesn't what MAF you use, since you're scaling it. However, your car almost has the same issues that most have with the stillen supercharger. P1239

It's an issue with the extension cables, so I'd definitely give those a once over.

Bikeracer1098 05-10-2018 06:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihiryu (Post 3754495)
It doesn't what MAF you use, since you're scaling it. However, your car almost has the same issues that most have with the stillen supercharger. P1239

It's an issue with the extension cables, so I'd definitely give those a once over.

Is there a way to check the extension cable? Maybe measuring the resistance of each individual cable etc

Thanks

TopgunZ 05-10-2018 08:20 PM

I have 2 sets of brand new gen 2 cables just sitting around. If you need a set let me know.

Bikeracer1098 05-11-2018 02:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3754549)
I have 2 sets of brand new gen 2 cables just sitting around. If you need a set let me know.

Thanks, will try and test mine and I’ll send you a PM

Any idea when were the Gen 2 cables released.

Mine was fitted in August 2016

So probably shipped from Stillen in a June/ early July 2016

Bikeracer1098 05-11-2018 01:34 PM

Is there a way to test these leads?

Tried to read the resistance with a multimeter this afternoon but failed due to the connector

Thanks

redondoaveb 05-11-2018 01:52 PM

I may be wrong but I thought I read another thread on here that the gen 2 cables have a different outside coating (housing) than the 1st gen. I'm sure others on here can verify if that's correct or if I'm just going crazy.

TBatt 05-11-2018 03:59 PM

They look very similar but the wire gauge is larger for the gen 2 cables. The problem with the earlier ones was an intermittent connection. Very hard to test with a multi-meter.

One other thing, the SC system just starts making boost at around 3K rpm, so below that it is a NA engine.

You need to let the engine warm up before you flog it. The oil will be thick and the oil pressure will be extremely high if you rev it hard while cool. I always get the oil temp up to at least 140 before I start to have some fun. Your engine will thank you.

TBatt 05-11-2018 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by redondoaveb (Post 3754768)
I may be wrong but I thought I read another thread on here that the gen 2 cables have a different outside coating (housing) than the 1st gen. I'm sure others on here can verify if that's correct or if I'm just going crazy.

I have both and the outer skin (referred to as "snake skin") is the same nylon material.

TopgunZ 05-11-2018 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3754809)
I have both and the outer skin (referred to as "snake skin") is the same nylon material.

Can you put a caliper on a cable of each gen so we can vary them?

Bikeracer1098 05-12-2018 10:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3754809)
I have both and the outer skin (referred to as "snake skin") is the same nylon material.

Are you able to post up a photo of the Gen 1 & Gen 2 cables with the connectors next to each other?

Thanks

Bikeracer1098 05-12-2018 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3754807)
They look very similar but the wire gauge is larger for the gen 2 cables. The problem with the earlier ones was an intermittent connection. Very hard to test with a multi-meter.

One other thing, the SC system just starts making boost at around 3K rpm, so below that it is a NA engine.

You need to let the engine warm up before you flog it. The oil will be thick and the oil pressure will be extremely high if you rev it hard while cool. I always get the oil temp up to at least 140 before I start to have some fun. Your engine will thank you.

Comming from a background of racing Bikes I have OCD with warning up engines properly.

My std 2018 370 Nismo feels far more torquy between 2000-3000RPM than my 2016 Supercharged Nismo.

Recently had the car stutter at around 2200RPM during the first 4 miles or so of a journey also stalled twice but hasn’t done so since. On startup the revs have also bounced up to around 2300RPM a few times.

Will post up a video showing the car accelerating on a hot engine from 2000-7000RPM. Car seems to accelerate slower between 2200-3700RPM as if it’s restricted.

Is this the symptoms of faulty extension MAF cables?

Bikeracer1098 05-13-2018 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TBatt (Post 3754809)
I have both and the outer skin (referred to as "snake skin") is the same nylon material.

Any idea from the photo whether Stillen extension cables on my car are Gen 1 or Gen 2? Stillen posted out the supercharger kit on 29/09/16 to my tuner

https://s6.postimg.cc/6mm278vkh/A969..._FB17_B991.jpg

https://s6.postimg.cc/u0u1j5y29/F889...E84_C54_D7.jpg

ByThaBay 05-13-2018 03:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bikeracer1098 (Post 3755246)
Any idea from the photo whether Stillen extension cables on my car are Gen 1 or Gen 2? Stillen posted out the supercharger kit on 29/09/16 to my tuner

https://s6.postimg.cc/6mm278vkh/A969..._FB17_B991.jpg

https://s6.postimg.cc/u0u1j5y29/F889...E84_C54_D7.jpg

This kit is my specialty. I can get you rolling and bring back all your low end power ASAP. Send me a pm.

TopgunZ 05-13-2018 06:59 PM

Looks like that 4th pin down is tweaked out.

turtle64b 05-13-2018 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3755288)
Looks like that 4th pin down is tweaked out.

I agree, but they could have had the grommet a little high on the wire when they pinned it and didn't push it down enough. If you can, do a resistance check to ensure that there isn't a fault in the cable. You can use something like a staple to stick in the slot to put the multimeter on if you don't have small enough leads.

TBatt 05-14-2018 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TopgunZ (Post 3754811)
Can you put a caliper on a cable of each gen so we can vary them?

Unfortunately that won't work because you would be measuring the total diameter and not the wire itself. You would have to strip back the insulation to measure the wire gauge/diameter. It could also have been the crimping of the connector that is causing a problem.

A good crimping tool has an adjustment that makes sure the crimp is good. In the aerospace industry we use "coupons" which are test samples where we crimp a connector and then run it through a pull test to insure the crimp is good. The crimping tool has a ratcheting mechanism that makes the operator press the tool all of the way through the crimp cycle. If you press it part way it will not release the crimped end. These are very repeatable but still need to be checked periodically.

Most wire has a printed information on it that has the gauge and insulation type. I have not dissected the old cables to see what the print says. All I really know is that my car was plagued with 1209 codes and going into limp mode until I replaced the cables with the gen 2 set.


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