Everything listed *could* be linked to lack of proper attention during installation.

Too much transmission fluid? Possible incorrect install of catalytic converters? Drivetrain vibration at everyday speeds? An oil leak that is moving fast enough to spot in one day?

If you had taken the car to get the install complete and it came back to you like this, I would assume that you'd be livid. Yet you state that it drives fine?

Take your time to iron out the kinks in the system before you continue to smash the gas.

Right...
Did you even read what the post said?
Fluid is not the issue...lol

Drivetrain vibrations only found out if i went 60mph otherwise it would have never been known..

Not an incorrect install of cats. They only go one place or nowhere at all...lol

As for your infornation i am ironing out these kinks but alot of them could not have been known without driving the car in the first place

Thank you
And yes. The car drives fine given all the things that was put into the car at once and to only have these current small minor issues is a huge accomplishment in my opinion.

Esp knowing a million other things could have went wrong and way worse.

So yes. I am taking my time....>.>


[Update]

Nissan Dealership gave me an update:

They said they are still charging me for 1 hour of labor, but it looks like it won't be done until tomorrow.
So either they never brought it into the shop yet and it's still in the service parking waiting area or, they did bring it in and they are doing who knows what to it, but still charging me 1 hour.

I /do/ know the guy who took care of me is hooking me up for 1 hour of labor when they told him they wanted to charge for 2 hours, which is nice of him.

He assured me he would take care of me and when I was talking to him in person, I could tell he really meant it too.

And he said they wouldn't do any labor and charge me for it without calling and asking my approval which, is perfect cause I was scared they were keeping it so long today and doing more labor only to charge me like 50 more hours out of nowhere lol. Just wanted to make sure they didn't do anything shady because we all know how them dealerships can be nowadays...!

So yeah, that's the update so far

Does the shop that did the install not have anyone capable of driving the damn car?!?! A complete install IMO would include miles of test driving to 'iron out the kinks'...

And from what I can tell, you complemented the dealer for doing nothing and charging you for 1 hour of labor instead of 2 hours :rofl2:


:wtf2: :wtf2: :wtf2:

It was not a shop that did the install, it was a different people helping out.

I complimented them because they wanted me to initially sign for 2 hours of labor but he cut it down to 1 for me for the diagnostic they are doing today / tomorrow to help find out the source of the minor stalling.

I did however think of just asking them to double check the car and make sure it drives okay according to their standards, which yes, then would include miles of test driving and fixing any kinks they find along the way.

Its not a bad idea.

Diagnostics are typically in the neighborhood of $100 which is pretty much an hour of labor. Depending on your region. So you're complementing them on not screwing you out of double that. See where I'm going with this? And you think the dealer is going to help you with your homemade boosted install? They'll be happy to charge you hourly, I'm sure :eekdance:

Well, if you didn't have a knowledgeable shop do the install after the first debacle, then I don't know what to say. Good luck, I guess.

My area charges 160 an hour.
Used to be 140 but increased by 20

And thanks i guess?

Nissan Dealership Results Update:

In the receipt for the 18th of October, 2018, it states that they made sure the fluid level was filled and adjusted correctly for my 7AT.

..Fast forward 6 days later and the new receipt says:

Fluid level low, added X amount of quarts, etc.

N/C of course for the service today because they messed up last week on checking the 7AT fluid level.

Lol.

Embarrassing but hey, it works now.

The 1 second idle stall jerk motion is gone -- tested and confirmed.


Just 2 issues to go:

- Tire Alignment as a result of putting KW V3s in this car

- P2A03 O2 Sensor Circuit Range/Performance Bank 2 Sensor 1
(Attached are two graphs that show they are not in sync)

- Minor oil leak


After these issues are gone, I can continue tuning the vehicle as it was before the accident on July 3rd, 2018.
RIP RED Z

We are getting there folks!
Just a little bit more!!!

Keeping those positive vibes!!


10/26/2018
Tire Alignment complete

/Potentially closing thread soon, and if so, will make a new thread for an entire new build.

LSS (Long Story Short)...

Supercharger seized up today while making boost, I suppose it was spilling too much oil out of the vent plug and didn't even drive it for more than 10 min and it decided to belt slip and seize up, causing the belt to burn, rip, and making it so it is nearly impossible to turn the pulleys (we waited til it cooled off)

Not tripping though, I knew it was going to happen sometime since I know I wasn't going to always 100% accurately add oil when needed, just didnt' know when the blower would BLOW up lol.

If I do close this thread, I'm making a new one and will go a twin turbo set up.

Just going to tune it to limit the torque at 430 ft lbs or so since that's how much the stock 7AT can handle UNTIL i get to upgrading the tranny.

Anyways, ill keep you guys updated.

I'm going to sell the rest of the A2A kit and use that cash to help me buy the turbo set up build.
I will find out what is wrong with the blower exactly maybe it isn't totally beyond repairable and if not ill repair it and sell it.
If it's beyond repairs then oh well! xD

It's cheaper than buying a brand new blower and I can make more power out of it.
My engine is built for pretty much anything I throw at it just not my transmission so that will be limited by the tune.

Stay tuned folks :)

Sorry to hear this man. I followed your thread for a little while now because of your high powergoals with a SC.

Good luck and i think youre making a good decision going TT

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk

After the sc seized, did you try draining it to see if there was any oil left in it?

Why not just go to a V7 sc?

Nope lol i figured no point in draining it if its already seized. Checked the dipstick though and it wasnt registering oil on the hatch marks. I checked it few days ago and the oil was fine on the hatch. The leak issue never got solved so i was gona keep filling it up after hard pulls but i guess the hard pulls today spat enough oil to make it seize up lol

If im lucky then its just a bearing blown / seals blown.
And not the impeller.

We will see though when i open it on thursday or friday.

For now ima run some numbers and see whats most cost efficient for me at this point

TT would give me more bang for the buck but i love me a Supercharger.

My engine is way more than enough to handle the HP i just need to upgrade the tranny and til then ill limit it to 430 ft lbs tq or something if i do go TT build with a tune. At least til i get a built tranny then ill up the TQ.

I was honestly going to get a 2200x Paxton blower instead of the v7 ysi as suggested by forum user MilkCow500.

But for that price i can get a TT setup and make a ton of power for that price lol

That SC has always gave you issues. Ugg, the modding game is really a patience game.

And why is it you wouldn't go with the V7 Ysi? You could easily hit your 700whp goal with that blower and it's a direct bolt on, just a couple of oil lines to run.

Haha it really has though.

It's okay though. I didn't like the blower to begin with once it started giving me an oil leak issue.

I neglected to solve it which is my fault and I take ownership for that, no worries.

It is a patience game but its all worth it when its working haha

Yep I was thinking the same.

I'm so close I'm almost there, it's stupid.

We fixed ALL THE ISSUES today that the car was having and the one I neglected was the oil leak issue which, ends up causing a potential irreversible death of the current blower.

I really thought of the V7 YSi but MilkCow500 persuaded me to go with the Paxton 2200x blower since that and the V7 YSi is almost equal but I guess you get more bang for your buck with the 2200x.

I just don't know about fitment issues. So many questions I have about upgrading the blower:

(1) Will the V7 YSi be a direct fitment onto the current bracket that fits the V3? Can I use it with the A2A kit?

(2) Will the 2200x be a direct fitment onto the current bracket that fits the V3? Can that be used with the A2A kit? According to MilkCow500 it can.
It just needs different sized couplers and a different air filter -- as he is having trouble finding an air filter that would fit it, otherwise I can just run it with no filter / a turbo guard lol.

What do you guys think?

As I've found out, we're pushing the V3 way beyond it's efficiency. That's why I'll be upgrading to the V7.

Yeah lol I was reading that too, which could be part of why it was spilling oil for me. Not sure why others didn't have that issue but I do!

If my blower is repairable I will just find a way with my buddy to come up with an oil return system that way any spills / spouts / leaks coming from the top of the blower will be returned into the blower lol.

Or I can just do what others did and slap a shipping plug to replace the vented plug. Lol.

Or... just upgrade the blower but not knowing how to fit a bigger blower and what items I'll need to properly connect it to the current A2A kit.

It seems the set up for both the 2200x and the V7-YSi are extremely similar except the 2200x has a higher CFM while the V7-YSi has an advantage of only +1000 RPM max speed.

CFM is more important anyways.

The Discharge OD: 3.0" same
The Inlet OD: 4.0" same
The Inducer Diameter: 3.7" same

Discharge ID: ??? on the 2200x while the V7-YSi is 2.64

Also, it says I can't order the V7-YSi in California lol so I'd have to outsource it and have that person send it to me or something.

Not sure about the 2200x though if that would be able to be sold directly to me or not.

And max power is 1200+ HP for V7 YSi
While max power for 2200x is 1300+ HP

Also has option to come with oil feed & drain line kit while the V7 YSi does not as far as I can tell

Some sc's have the oil issue and some don't. Don't ask me why. That's why I had to go to the 3.00 sc pulley instead of the 2.85. I still get a little oil coming out even with the 3.00. Some guys have put the shipping plug in with no problems. I was thinking about installing a pressure gauge in the vent hole to see what kind of pressure build up there actually is. If it's really low then I'd just plug it and not worry about blowing seals.

The V7 bolts right up to the stillen mount. I believe you'll need a larger bpv but otherwise the a2a kit can be used.

None of that matters if the Paxton doesn't bolt directly to the existing bracket.

Milkcow said it wouldddd

Makes me think if i should have just used the shipping plug hahaha. Awh well. Ill find out when we open it on thurs / fri.

That will heavily determine which boost route ill go haha

That's good, give's you another option.

I'll be changing mine out for the V7 Ysi, the V3 just does not run efficiently at the rpm we're spinning it at.

Yeah I might go V7YSI If it ends up being easier that route but we would need a different Air filter correct? What all would we need to change to make it fit? Just a bigger BPV and i would assume a bigger intercooler, and bigger couplers only correct?

I'm running the turbo guard, I'd probably do the same with the V7. Or, fabricate a custom intake pipe with a filter.

K thanks. Ill figure it out.
If i find out the 2200x rly doesnt fit ill opt for V7YSi
If it does ill get 2200x

If blower is beyone reparable then ima go GTR TT system lol

So which is it, tt or paxton or V7? :ugh2:

Here, I ran some theories.
Here are my options.

GTR Twin Turbo Setup (Irreparable Blower)
[ ] +$2150 (Sell current a2a kit)
[ ] Trade a2a kit + bad blower + $100 for the full TT Setup
[ ] Pay $1400 to to install TT Setup
(Random estimate of ~40 hours labor)
[ ] Need to pay to take apart a2a kit and then pay for shipping of all parts
[ ] Install needs to be done either at friends house or if my house, then within 2 weeks max, preferrably 1 week of straight grinding, and make sure no oil spill mess and we are clean the entire time / organized, otherwise mom will kill me.

Total:
- $1500 OOP costs + Shipping of all parts?
- Low OOP cost
- Low risk build
- High power output
- Can be upgraded to hold 850whp
- Need to tune to limit TQ to 430ft lbs.
- Purchase High Quality Downpipes
(change address to PO Box in 95249)


V7-YSi / Novi 2200x (Repairable Blower)
[ ] ~$600 bearings replacement + labor
[ ] Sell blower ~$2500
[ ] Net gain: ~$1900
[ ] $1900 toward new blower, save up $2000 more for Paxton Novi 2200x
[ ] Potentially save ~$2200 by end of November to buy blower if work OT the entire month
[ ] Slap on Turbo Guard for air filter
[ ] Find bigger intercooler, piping, couplers, clamp sizes, new SC belt, pulley sizes & maybe make same Y pipe but bigger pipes to match blower size diff between v3 and v7?
[ ] Need to find buyer for blower
Total:
- $2200 high OOP costs
- Low Risk build
- High Powered Output
- Easily achieve 700whp with limiting TQ to 430 ft lbs. with tune
- Use same current a2a setup with bigger couplers and piping?


928 Fully Upgraded v3 Blower (Repair&Keep)
[ ] IF SHAFT NOT BENT.... ($600 - $1600)
Buy new bearing and impeller, have it rebuilt
[ ] Put shipping plug on both ends to prevent oil from spouting out
[ ] Risk of blowing out seals due to X amount of pressure being made in contained blower
[ ] Risk destroying blower again, wasting $1600 that coulda been spent toward a new blower
[ ] Come up with a custom oil return line fitting so spilled oil goes right back into the blower
[ ] Come up with a way to measure inside pressure made from blower when spinning super fast?
Total:
- Wide Range OOP costs pends what broke
- Medium Risk build
- Pushing limits of V3 blower power output
- Use same current a2a setup, no change


Ill need to wait til I get back from work this week to open the blower and see what is wrong with it.
That will be the determining factor of the direction I go as far as:
TT or SC route (Paxton or YSi)

Are you guys just guessing you need a bigger front mount and bypass valve? Is there anything to back this up?

The bosch valve that stillen provides for use up to 10psi of boost has a total area of entry/exit of 5.07cm squared. The Tial QRJ has an entry/exit of 11.4cm.

Intake temps have not been an issue for the guys running up to 700whp. I guess if your goals are much higher than that, you could look into it.

You guys think I can safely keep the same 720hp intercooler from the a2a kit I have if I upgrade to a V7 YSi / Novi 2200x?

Or I will need to change the size to a bigger intercooler rated one? And I am pretty sure I can keep the same custom Y intake pipe that came with the kit as well if I go up to a bigger blower correct?

Id just need to change the coupler sizes and possibly put a turbo guard on the new blower assuming I am unable to find a fitting air filter.

What do you guys think?

I think I will stay the SC route regardless of my current blower status , if its repairable ill repair it and sell it to someone who wants the 928 upgrade but doesnt want to wait all the time to send it in and have it rebuilt then sent back.

I been thinking about it and I dont think I want to swap to TT only because I love me an SC lol even though they can be stubborn!!!:roflpuke2:

I did some research.

I can safely keep the same IC that came with the kit 720hp.

I can keep the same Y intake charge pipe that came with the kit.

I can keep same couplers on the Y intake pipe side of the IC.

I will need to get my own custom fittings for the oil drain line kit to make it work with the Novi 2200x, same as when setting up turbos just this is with an oil fed SC.

I will need to increase coupler sizes and clamps on the SC side of the IC.

And the Novi 2200x also does directly fit onto the same bracket as the one that came with the stillen SC kit.

Im going to save up and buy a 2200x blower.

Im not closing this thread, since im staying SC and still want to achieve my 700whp goal!!

Yay!

I never mentioned changing out the intercooler, I plan on using the one that came with your kit. I did mention changing out the bpv but the was based on what Vortech has in their description section regarding the V7 Ysi:

Large blower" performance in a smaller package that fits most existing Vortech bracketry. The V-7 Series combines the advanced technology and race-proven performance and fits most of our existing mounting bracketry. The V-7 is designed for vehicles with highly modified engines and extreme CFM/boost demands. All units feature our exclusive D-port volute for improved efficiency and require the use of a Vortech Racing Bypass Valve or larger to meet discharge flow demands. The heavy duty (H/D) configuration includes high speed, ceramic hybrid ball bearings, ideal for race applications, and is compatible with cog pulley/Gilmer style drive setups.

If the QRJ will meet the discharge flow demands of the V7 then I'd rather not spend the extra $300.00 for the Vortech Racing bpv. :tiphat:

I'm not looking to make more hp, your kit is netting me 656 right now, I'm happy as hell with that. You should be pretty damn proud of yourself for developing a kit that is capable of that kind of power.

The reason I want to switch to the V7 is I'm pushing the V3 beyond it's efficiency. It just doesn't run efficient at 62000rpm. I can go to the V7 and add the 3.47/2.85 pulley combo back in. That will spin it faster, bring in the torque at a lower rpm and with my wastegate and ebc, I can dump excess boost to keep it at a safe level. And I don't have to worry about oil blowing all over my engine compartment. It just seems to make sense for my goals.

...or should i keep it simple and rebuild my blower

If its rebuildable id like to rebuild it since the upgraded blower cost a lot lol

If not then maybe i just stick with novi 2200x

Ill have a more definitive solid answer by friday...lol

Just talking and throwing random options and ideas for now til i find out whats inside the blower lol

I called ECS and they confirmed for me that the 2200x is a direct fitment onto our vortech brackets from the stillen kit as it has the same bolt pattern.

Each paxton head unit has a vortech head unit counterpart. The 1200 is similar as our V3s
The 2200 is similar to the V7s, etc

The 2200x has a billet casing and billet impeller whereas the V7 YSi B is a cast casing with billet impeller.

If you ask me, I think the billet casing and impeller sounds more enticing.

So I am definitely going to get a 2200x and it will take 2 - 3 months to save up for it but it will be well worth it I think!

The standard 8 rib belt wouldn’t work with the 3.47” jackshaft and 3” supercharger pulley? Thought that was kind of standard setup.

I didn't have to change my belt when I went with that combo. Did you get your bpv silencer?

When I tried this combination... we found fitment issues for it and needed spacers or something IIRC.

So we only used the 3.0" pulley and didn't use the 3.47 or maybe it was the other way around, can't remember.

If you change the jackshaft pulley on the sc side then you have to add a spacer to the sc pulley and idler pulley. The stock jackshaft pulley that Stillen used isn't a Vortech pulley and has a different offset.

^ That was the issue. xD Yup. Haha.