Rusty, I called up JRZ today and they only had one set left. I asked them if they were going to make some more and the guy said NO! So I freaked out and gave him my credit card number. I hope you can get a set when you need them. I need the low speed and high speed damping. Sorry Dude.

:rofl2:

Well, you missed these. They're about 20K.

http://www.jrzsuspension.com/jrz-14-53.html

Didn’t bother reading your long *** post. F*cking take it to Seb. I took my z to three Mickey Mouse *** shops. One was a legendary Honda tuner. Gave me a **** tune, one injector wasn’t spraying properly, fouled spark plugs. One tuned only exotics. F*cked up my supercharger install. Ended up sucking it up and towing my car to Seb. He had it for a month because I told him to go through everything. He fixed all of my issues.

Moral of the story: do it right. Do it once. Don’t cut corners. Send your **** to Seb and be done with it. Doesn’t matter if you have to eat cup noodles until Christmas. You’ll end up saving more money in the long run than taking it to these **** shops and adding 17 more pages to this build thread about **** that went wrong.

:iagree:

Learning?? As far as I can tell, you haven't learned a thing.

You posted a pic a couple of pages back and I see a lot of issues going on, and it's only about a 6" x6 " pic of your car.

Your Tial is on backwards. You say you have boost leaks yet in that small pic I see a worm drive clamp instead of a T bolt. And why do you have a second clamp outlet on there? I guess it doesn't hurt anything, just looks bad. Like the strip of gold heat reflective tape on your bpv pipe. Lol.

You bought jrz’s

LMAO, NO I didn't. Rusty just needed to be messed with a touch.

Don't let him fool you. He bought them.

Update: (Some of this is a repeat of what has been done before, but I just decided to repost it again and lump it all in one)

- Removed driver side door panel to take out a random screw from behind there (dono how it got behind there in the first place, it was there before I purchased the car lol)

- Inspected and put in a new gasket for the passenger sided cam shaft cover, and put something on it for extra protection. So far no oil leak is showing (put cardboard under the car when it isn't being driven it to see if anything leaks, so far nothing)

- Replaced all 4 brake pads with brand new EBC Yellowstuff Akebono pads

- Replaced front 2 rotors with 2 brand new slotted cryo-treated rotors

- Cleaned engine bay and also under the car

- Swapped the ECU for a new one which fixed the misfiring in 2 cylinders (4 & 6) that occurred after I got it back from the shop

- Pushed and tightened bolts to get rid of the rubbing noise on subframe of car when in reverse mode

- Got rid of some odd noise that was occurring in the back of the car (dono what it was but it bothered him enough to get rid of it lol)

- Filled up washer fluid tank with water, so no more warning light on for an empty washer reservoir tank

- Fixed slight belt rub against the overflow tank

- Re-tuned the car via Eugene (ECUTEK) to make sure things are good to go so far

===============================================

Things to be done soon:

- Will swap out engine mount with brand new Polyurethane motor mount

- Will swap out current transmission mount for an upgraded Polyurethane transmission mount

- Will replace driver side front left fender liner with a brand new one because last one got melted and eaten up by my tire while driving apparently it came off xD

Update:

- I finally decided to put test pipes into the vehicle and swap out my OEM stock Cats (i know..i know.. about time, right?!) Test pipes will be going in tomorrow.

- I am swapping out both AFR sensors for very low mileage AFR sensors (~10k) from a healthy car (thanks to Husam for this) --> This is to further diagnose the source of the P2A03.

- Eugene is willing to help with a smoke test to see if there are any leaks they can detect with this method after putting in the test pipes & swapping out AFR sensors.



I figured if the P2A03 still comes back after putting in test pipes, and swapping out my current AFR sensors for the very low mileage ones, then I am just going to disable the code at that point, and call it a day -- as long as the AFR numbers are fine still.

It can't be a bad injector because I was driving the Red Z for 3 weeks with those same exact injectors and no code was thrown (before I crashed it).

Update:

- Found source of P2A03 code that I've had for so long. Turns out it was a bad cat. The idiotic shop I brought it to did not inform me of this so of course I would have never checked it if I never decided to remove my cats.

- Code hasnt shown up so far after being driven for 80 miles. The combination of new brakes pads and front rotors that just got put on is working extremely well so far.

- The vehicle sounds a lot better than before after replacing the cats, also breathes a lot better.

- Only making around 9psi on average but I'm happy with that.

- Performed exhaust leak: Nothing detected.

- Performed Boost Leak: Nothing detected.

- Will replace front 2 wheel hubs this week since the front 2 are not spinning well at all. It is not smooth

On that note, I am curious however to see the exact boost I'm running. Anyone can recommend a boost gauge I can purchase that is under $75? I'm not looking for anything fancy, and I dont care how it looks or mounts / doesnt moint in the car, just want to measure my boost using a gauge :)

/End Update

I have a Defi Blue Racer gauge I will sell to you for $75. They are known to be top of the line in the industry. Also have Defi Blue racer oil pressure if you want.

PMd :)

I second Defi being legit. I’m currently running the Defi Advance RS gauges (oil pressure/oil temp/boost) to match my green interior and I love them. :tup: