PM'd

Wow, just noticed the air filter on the SC intake. That thing looks super restrictive. I take it that discharge pipe from the SC takes up all the space to route a pipe for the SC intake.

Topgunz, could I get a copy of the installation instructions, too?

It is not all that restrictive. It is open all the way around and in the front too. The front of the filter lines up with an opening in the radiator support so it can breath there too.

You can also hear the compressor whine which sounds awesome!

Did your kit just got featured on the YouTube channel Roads Untraveled? Or is this a copy of yours?

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I saw that too... 600 WHP?

That's not Aaron's kit, you can tell by the crappy welds on the piping. It's their own copycat kit. And it's not the only one making 600whp like they claim.

F’k F’k F’k EMISSIONS!! What have you all done? Guy who helped me install my kit was re-installing his cuz emissions. I just don’t wanna touch the manifold. Think I can remove blower, intercooler, reconnect evap and stock tune and pass? Not sure if bigger injectors/pump and upgraded MAP sensor will throw off stock tune? Maybe I can get seb to get me a basic NA map..Just throw a filter on Y pipe. I’m already working on fuel system just had a kid and it’s due in dead of winter Not ******* ideal

So what did you guys do about connecting the evap purge valve? The evap hose (with the access port) goes onto the "front" nipple of the purge valve. The stillen instructions say to connect the "back" nipple to a straight fitting in the manifold between the throttle bodies. My stillen intake (from Aaron) has no fitting there - the hole where it would be is plugged. Any help would be much appreciated. Did you just cap the back nipple on the purge valve? If so, does this cause issues? CEL, etc.?

No way will it run on stock tune with that amount of fuel spraying. You will need a new tune for sure.

I can get you going with a base tune to pass smog, just PM me.

interested in a kit
 

I pm'd you a few days ago.
wanting to know details

Yea I’ll get a base “stock” tune if I have to but I’m gonna go in with everything as-is with BOV silencer on E85 and hope I slip through the cracks

Does anybody know if routing the PCV back into the system if we would want to put it before the blower on the intake filter side, or after before the intercooler? Maybe a question best for Seb, will post what he says for reference.
I assume piping is stainless steel?

Piping is aluminum. If going post blower it will pressurize it. Won't have that problem if going pre blower. Just not sure how you will be able to with the filter. Would need the stillen boot.

I don’t think they’d sell the boot but the design of it would sure help. Seb suggested around the filter so I was thinking of cutting some of the core support and using an aftermarket intake pipe that has a fitting for the PCV and then maybe I could fit a bigger filter

i know this is a month old but in case anyone else has the same question - LJ from specialty Z recommended to hook the evap system back up, you can buy the correct barbed hose fitting at any hardware store and connect the back purge valve nipple to the new fitting

I have the Stillen boot if anyone wants to buy it.


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Here is a G37 with a different intercooler/manifold setup, but it looks like it is possible to do this. It’s something I hope to persue when I install mine.

So does this make more power, or just add unnecessary parts for aesthetics?

Not sure which parts you are referring to. I’m just interested in the air filter relocation. Here is a link to someone who did something similar with a 3-D printer but hacked away a lot more at the radiator support. The one above just uses the existing hole although it too may have been enlarged. Topz mentioned the 3D printed version would pick up some horsepower for sure. How much is not known, and probably becomes more useful as you approach the 550 to 600 power levels. SOHO seems to only publish dyno sheets of air to air supercharger kits that use a turbo guard. Why? There is some benefit but even they are saying they don’t know how much. Personally I find it strange, that a reputable shop would remove an air filter with no idea of the benefits of doing so.

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...l#pmost3804355

Here are pictures of the turbo guard and ngr screens that I supplied Specialty Z for dyno testing. You can see the results on the second page. It was a drastic drop just with screen size.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Btl8qP9n...d=w0tkhn53aegr

For those asking I was asked not to share the dyno due to the belt slip at upper rpms on the non-gtr plenum car... both cars have an identical build minus the gtr plenum. GTR > Stock VHR > Stillen plenum

WHAT? OK, these numbers are mathematically impossible. Just look at the 0 TQ increase that resulted in a 15 HP increase. Anyone that knows anything about TQ and HP knows that's not how things work. A 0 increase in TQ = a 0 increase in HP. So, let's look at these other suspect numbers. Here is a chart of what the supposed increase in TQ would give you in extra HP.

I remember a few years ago reading through hundreds of posts when this conversion kit came out waiting for the page that would show the dyno chart. I wasted 1-2 days reading posts and never saw a chart. And again, no chart with some wildly inaccurate claims about this conversion.

Also I am not RJM... this didn’t come from RJM... this came from a customer. My comments are based on the overlay you see above.

Your graphs are not overlaid correctly. TQ and HP should always cross at 5252 RPM. Maybe you should line them up better.

And yes, your posted numbers that we were expected to accept at face value before I called you on it are absoloutely BS. Mathematically proven BS.

Again a customer sent me this. I will get his original graphs and compare side by side

just got both graphs… let me do a comparison.

Sorry Senna, haven't been on for a few days. Anyway, I was referring to whether or not the VHR manifold and added piping made a noticeable increase in power over the Stillen manifold, or if it was just for looks.

In regards to bullitts numbers, I'm wondering if it was actually the manifold or relocated filter that made the difference in power. I remember when redondoaveb (sp? sorry bro lol) posted dynos with the sandwich filter and with the turboguard and he made similar jumps in power so who knows what the actual difference maker is, the filter or the manifold?

GTR Plenum Vs OEM Plenum:

3.5k: +10whp (190 OEM vs 200 GTR), +10ftlbs (290 OEM vs 300 GTR)
4k: +10whp (230 OEM vs. 240 GTR), +5ftlbs (310 OEM vs 315 GTR)
4.5k: +5whp (275 OEM vs 280 GTR), +10ftlbs (325 OEM vs 335 GTR)
5k: +10whp (335 OEM vs 345 GTR), +5ftlbs (355 OEM vs 360 GTR)
5.5k: +10whp (375 OEM vs 385 GTR), +10ftlbs (370 OEM vs 380 GTR)
6k: +5whp (420 OEM vs 425 GTR), +0ftlbs (370 OEM vs 370 GTR)
6.5k: +0whp (460 OEM vs 460 GTR), +0ftlbs (360 OEM vs 360 GTR)
7k:+10whp (490 OEM vs 500 GTR), +0ftlbs (360 OEM vs 360 GTR)
7.5k: OEM Slipped...

My Apologies for the misrepresented information. I was able to get the individual dynos and run through their respective numbers. OEM Max was: 492whp/378tq the GTR plenum 515whp/377tq.

I will clean up my posts prior and we can use this as a reference for the gtr plenum. Both cars were on pump gas and at 10PSI.

@ Senna I have removed the posts with the incorrect information. would you mind removing the posts in which you quote it as to not confuse anyone with my mistake. Thanks.

No, because you are till posting incorrect information. Remember asking me if I was “dense”? Well, why are you still posting numbers where the TQ or HP change is 0, but then showing an increase in the other measurement? Your latest numbers are wrong again. No change in one = no change in the other.

How are you coming up with these numbers? I mean just looking at the 7000 RPM Number, 360 TQ @ 7000 = 480 HP, not 490, and definitely not the 500 you are showing. And if the graph you are using clearly showed the 2 curves were shifted incorrectly horizontally, how do we know they weren't also shifted vertically? That'd be a really easy way to show an increase in power! Sorry but your numbers and methods are suspect. Different car, different day, different dyno? Im not sure. And then instead of using actual data, you overlaying photos to compare. It's just not working.

2 separate vehicles... same exact setup... yes you can have these numbers. I never said this was the same car. I believe this is where the miscommunication is. I would 100% agree with you if this was the same car... but again as I mentioned early this is two separate cars with the exact same setup minus the intake manifold difference.

Same builds done by the same shop.

The scaling was off on one of the graphs thus why my original post was incorrect. I made those comments during my lunch break today and didn’t give it full attention to the 5250 cross over. I literally read the lines and the hp/tq numbers based on the 500rpm segments.

Again 2 cars the exact same builds minus the intake manifold. Gtr conversion showed a slight improvement throughout when comparing two like vehicles.

Also the calculations your using are also an approximation. I am reading directly from the dyno graphs. I am also approximating as the image files are small. So instead of being all up in arms why don’t we choose to be civil. My post was in reference to the gtr plenum being only beneficial for aesthetics. This is not the case and when properly tuned people have often seen gains with it. No drop off in power like one shop claimed. I am just trying to be helpful and share information. Again I ask that you remove the incorrect information as the RJM customer sent me an improperly scaled graph and my comments were incorrect. I do not want people to be confused by that incorrect data. Hence why I removed my comments all together.

What do you mean by that? You mean because I’m using your approximated TQ numbers? That’s not my fault. My calculations are the same ones used by everyone, including the software used by a dyno.

OK... You for some reason have an issue... Regardless of the calculator your using. I am pulling from two individual dyno sheets. I am making estimations based on graph dashes. I am giving comparable differences between two graphs. You are taking this information which I have stated is an approximation/estimation and using it as a stringent number. Again these are approximations of TQ and HP and the delta between them. two different cars with the exact same setup from fuel to a2a to supercharger, piping and routing. Same boost levels same dyno type and same fuel. There is a small advantage to the GTR conversion yet your all up in arms.

I have admitted where I was wrong. I didn't defend my wrong information in fact I removed it as to not confuse people and to not falsely prop up the gtr conversion.


With all that said. Topgunz my apologies for the thread derailment. I simply wanted to address the question on the gtr conversion and the statement that it is an aesthetics only mod. I have always stated that this product is something people should look for in higher boost applications. In lower boost applications as the example used here the gains will be minimal. In the higher boost applications the differential tends to grow.


Now back on topic. This is all I will speak on this subject. Again my apologies for the derailment.

It was a very simple and direct question to your statement that I *also* was approximating. And your answer was to tell me I *have an issue*, followed by everything else above, but no answer. I only have an issue with the truth and unsubstantiated accusations, as anyone should.

Moving on...

I am going to be installing this kit soon so I tried to mock everything up on the workbench. This brought up some questions. Looking over everything, I might also be missing some hoses and an idler. I am trying to bounce between the Stillen instructions and the Topgunz conversion instructions and I found that there are a couple holes in both.

1. I bought the SpecialtyZ 3bar MAP sensor which does not fit the OEM MAP sensor port on the Stillen manifold. I am guessing that I am simply going to bolt on the OEM MAP sensor to the manifold and not connect it. The 3bar sensor is going to be zip tied to something, the OEM MAP sensor electrical connector is going to be plugged into the 3bar sensor, and a new hole is going to be drilled and tapped for the the 3bar sense line. Is that correct?

2. In the Stillen instructions, the port on the manifold between the TB's is supposed to be connected to the purge valve. However, my manifold was delivered without the purge valve connection and the hole is simply plugged with a set screw. What am I supposed to do with the purge valve if the purge valve port is plugged?

3. My kit did not come with any hoses that are called out in the Stillen instructions. The only "hose" I received in my kit was 5' of tubing to connect to the bypass valve and also short stainless steel braided line that is plugged on one end. I have no idea where the braided line goes since I can't find it anywhere in the instructions. I also did not receive any of the 3/8's or 5/8's hoses or plastic tees that is called out in the Stillen instructions for the vacuum lines. I am not sure if this was an accidental omission from the kit or if they are not needed for the A2A conversion. I think they were accidentally left out since I seems like I still need to install the breather lines and add a breather filter onto the 5/8's tee. Is that correct? If so, does anyone know where I can find/buy the 5/8", 90deg hoses?

4. I marked up the vacuum diagram from the Stillen instructions. I just wanted to verify that my "corrections" are correct.

5. My blower bracket does not have a 7 rib idler that is shown in the Stillen instructions. My kit came with a small idler pulley but it does not fit in the bolt hole where the 7 rib idler is supposed to be. Is there supposed to be a 7 rib idler in the kit that was left out? And what I am supposed to do with the smaller pulley?