^ It was warranted, its getting ridic. Just tell them their cars will blow up with headers. Just immediate explosion when you turn the key. I mean the entire car. Oh and the color blue will cease to exist.

LOL!!!

My post was really just meant as a joke but after I wrote it I remembered that the member's of this forum aren't familiar with my posting style yet. On some of the other forum's I visit I have been a member for four or five years so they're used to me joking around...

You never know the tone of someone's words on the internet so I just wanted everyone to understand that it was a joke and I wasn't just trying to be a jerk.

Ya your a **** Kyle lol.... Seriously though.. you do have me a bit worried.... I have everything Stillen except for the Cats and I am scared to drive my car now cause it pretty much sounds to me like the worlds gonna end when I start driving the piss out of my car, which is the only way I know. Tell me that this isn't true and I'll be good to go!

It looks like you've done a great job so far but you are correct...Your car is on the verge of melting down so I would recommend a few things...

#1) STILLEN engine oil cooler kit...This will keep your oil cool and prolong the inevitable melt down.
#2) AP Racing big brake kit front and rear...This will allow you stop much shorter when your car bursts into a giant ball of flames as you travel down the freeway!
#3) AP Racing brake fluid...The boiling temperature is higher than standard fluid so when everything IS on fire...you're fluid will be better suited to perform with the AP brakes and get you out of the car faster!!!
#4) STILLEN sway bars...Again, when the car bursts into flames you want to make sure that you can make quick turns to immediately exit to the side of the road...This will make your car handle better.
#5) STILLEN urethane bushings...They handle the heat from the flames much better than the factory rubber bushings will!

All of those things will seriously help you out when you try to drive your car spiritedly!

Seriously though, you're setup is perfectly safe. I wouldn't install the high flow cats just yet because it will be on the lean side and outside the range of what we would consider "safe." We are working on a tuner that will give you a safe a/f and improve your power as well. If we can stick with our current path it will be a very affordably priced option! Let us work on the tuning for you and you'll be ready to rock all four in no time!

There is a simple solution if u have header/hfc or LTH... Go to a tuning shop and get your AFR adjusted. Thats what im doing when A. i get my nitrous set up finished and B. when i get my exhaust mods. I dont understand why people are making such a big deal about this.

Do a lot of shops have enough experience and skill with reflashing the VQ37's ECU with an aftermarket forced induction system?

Gotta start somewheres. No offence to Stillen or any other vendors. But whats the difference in stillen sending you a canned tune that isnt made for your car specifically and a tuner shop that hasnt done much or any work on the VQ37 with a FI setup?

I'm heading to a local shop when i come back from my operation with the army to get a tune for my nitrous set up. They never worked on the VQ37 and agree'd to give me a huge discount.

Personally i think its alot safer to go with a shop that hasnt had much expeirence then a shop that has but gives u a base tune that isnt set for car specifically. Yes its a 370z but all cars are different. My buddy that had a tune on his cobalt was perfect for his car but even with the same identical mods as him the tune wasnt good on my car. Once again im not bashing stillen or any one, just stating my opinion on the topic.

glad you brought this up... for the occasional casual track day, I sure would like to be able to run 91... any way you guys could include a switch? even if this was introduced as an upgrade at a later date, it'd be appreciated

also, any more details you can share about the race-oriented version? you are assuming full a/c delete right ? anything else we should know about how it will be configured and what kind of differences we can expect from the other versions in terms of power gains, lag or whatever ?

thanks

i wasn't exagerating i said 2-psi which from experience is what i've seen. granted that was on cars running 14-20 lbs, and it ges down with less so maybe one psi. But the point remains valid will you have the ability to tune the CVTC to remove the valve overlap that robs boost from header equiped cars? It isn't the effiecent exhaust that reduces boost it's the valve timing. J/W because one of the main points of this car is it's ability to customize the cam settings in the ecu.

it really sucks to know that i shoudlve held up on the headers... sucks donkey butt... in for updates though...!!!

The only reason that the headers did not work on the stillen SC for the 350 was loosing 1 lb of boost because of the valve overlap in the vq 35. My 5 AT made 303 rwhp with headers. Does any body now what the valve over lap is in the 370?

I wouldn't be interested in the race kit unless I could run 93 on it. I'll run 100 at the track, but I would like to be able to drive my car every day without having to get race gas. I *think* they are calling it the race kit because it is not CARB legal and is probably "for off road use only". I dont know, but I doubt it will need to have the AC removed or any shenanigans like that. I would think that because they dont have to worry about emissions, etc. then the kit will make a bit more power than the CARB kit and will spool a little bit faster.

I am interested in the answer to this question too.

Umm, simple, kinda... you have to buy tuning software to reflash the car. The cheapest of which is still a few hundred dollars + tuning.

Unless a shop has a lot of experience with UpRev's reflashing software and with the VQ37, it will be somewhat risky. There's only three Uprev authorized shops in your country and I'm not sure which ones have experience with the VQ. Not sure Cobb's software is capable of handling aftermarket forced induction and there's only two authorized shops in Canada. Other than UpRev and Cobb (and Technosquare in So Cal), who has cracked the VQ37's ECU necessary to tune it in the first place?

Lol where are you getting your info man?

Tuning the VQ is like tuning most other NA cars...mostly anyone can buy the uprev stuff....FI tuning is not that complicated...VQ tuning is not complicated.... Mines also has an ECU upgrade...

Spend more time on the boards, less on the company site :)

What shop are you considering?
I have a few recommendations and suggestions.

Pm me for the info

PM Sent. Also to Buddy...we arent talking about a full tune from scratch. We are talking about slightly changing the AFR. Hell i know nothing about tuning anything and i was able to learn and adjust my 08 ZX6R with the power commander in a few hours.

With the turbo cars I had we could go and get a tune for $500 that matched the mods we had on our cars and it would be at about 95% perfect, we didnt really nede to get a custom tune that would cost more than a grand for that extra 5%. I never heard of anyone having any problems with the tunes. Can NA cars get the same type of tunes according to their mods? I would think most mods, ie CAIs, exhausts, etc for our car all fall in the same area as far performance, air flow gains, etc., so cant tuning companies just write tunes for just an exhaust, or an exhaust and CAI, etc?

Whenever you do a pre-packaged tuner whether it's for NA or FI cars you will get about 95% of your full potential. Depending on the type of the tuning device and the type of vehicle you're tuning you can safely estimate that the tuning device included in the kit is costing around $150-350.00. Obviously this depends on the type of vehicle (Nissan's are more exclusive and therefore more challenging than GM's and Ford's.) Also, if the company is supplying a stand alone ECU then the cost of that tuner could be estimated even higher and around the $1,000+ range.

The $150.00-300.00 is just for the tuning and the delivery method, handheld controller, computer program...whatever. Some tuner's are more expensive and can cost upwards of $600.00 or more but generally with those tuner's you get more than just a pre-set tune. That price range does not include any additional fuel pumps, injectors, wiring, fuel rails etc. for the FI guy's.

If you go into a tuner and say "here, tune my car." You can estimate that you're going to spend between $700.00 or more. Obviously this depends on the tuner's experience with your type of car, the tuning device they choose, and again it will depend on the vehicle being tuned. Some tuner's might take 10-12 hours to nail down the tune...some might take longer, some might be even less.

So basically, what you need to ask is yourself is: "Is the extra 5% of power and performance worth an additional $XXX.XX?" The tune that you will receive with your FI or NA tuner from the manufacturer will be safe, reliable, and give good power. But, it is correct that it will not be tailored to that specific vehicle being tuned so it will leave about 5% of the full potential on the table. It all comes down to how much it's worth to you and how much you're willing to spend.

This is the exact reason that we will be offering the tuner kit. This will be the perfect kit for people who want to do their own tuning and it will save them some money up front so they don't have to worry about spending it again later on.

We just received the prototype castings back from the foundry and they look AMAZING!!!! I can't wait to post pictures soon!!!

We have done all of the engineering of this kit in house and we have produced a couple of rapid prototype intake manifolds which are a plastic material that allow us to check for fitment and we can even send them out to test airflow and what not. The parts that we ran on the car a couple of months ago were actually plastic prototype pieces. This allowed us to watch all the belts and check alignment and confirm the engineering before going into the casting process.

We obviously don't have an aluminum foundry in the back of our shop so for some of our products we have to outsource to specialists. Then the parts come back to our shop for final machining and finishing before being assembled with the intercoolers and the rest of the kit.

The company who does all of our castings also manufactures parts for some of the largest manufacturers in the industry including:

TRD
Roush Racing
DART heads
Chrysler
Cosworth
Bombardier
Edelbrock
and many, many more.

We are also very proud to say that they are based in the U.S.A. This is very important to STILLEN. Too many companies these days outsource to other countries and we try our best to keep all of our manufacturing in-house or at least in the U.S.A.

I guess I'm mad cautious, bro, since our VQ has a more complex valvetrain and higher comp ratio than the older ones. I figure there's less margin for error with tuning it for forced induction and would only be comfortable with shops experienced with working with them.

Kyle... piccccttuuuurrrreessss

Here are the pictures. Keep in mind these are prototype pieces. I did not spend any time in setting up the lights or the camera to make them look all pretty for advertising photography. I am terrible with setting that photography stuff up (lol) but I just wanted to show you pictures of the new intake manifold.

This intake manifold started life on the computer. Our engineers used their 3 dimensional CAD programs to develop the intake manifold then they printed out a 3 dimensional plastic model. This plastic model is known as a "rapid prototype" and basically allows us to check fitment and confirm that our engineering is accurate. Unfortunately I do not have a good quality picture to show of that rapid prototype piece right now. During its testing life the plastic prototype has been changed and modified so it does not look very presentable in its current state.

Here are some photos from the CAD development:

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...ntakemani2.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...ntakemani1.jpg

As you can see we have relocated the driver's side throttle body to be inline with the passenger side. This will allow us to have equal air pressure to each throttle body and a more consistent airflow. Also, by changing the intake manifold we can install our dual pass intercooler which will cool the air charge right before the air goes into the motor. Another added benefit is lengthening the intake runners which will also improve torque and accleration.

Here are some photos of the prototype castings. These are raw castings so they will still need to go through the machining process to have all of their mounting surfaces faced and drilled and tapped but these images will at least show you the progress that is being made.

Enjoy!

http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...5/IMG_8625.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...5/IMG_8634.jpg
http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/h...5/IMG_8626.jpg

Thank you so much!

By the way, we should have more photos in the next week or two of the manifold on the car and running and what not...

Wow. Looks really nice. I am very excited to see this kit hit the market. Manifold would look sick if you guys machine the lines and the stillen part to make it jump more from the casting.

That is definitely the plan! Check out the first two pictures of the 3D drawing. The intake manifolds will actually be sent out for black powdercoating prior to the machining process where all of the mounting surfaces and the STILLEN logo will be machined revealing the clean aluminum underneath. It will look great!

Not sure if this has been asked, but with the SCs will we need an oil cooler and for the AT guys an trans cooler? If so will they be part of the kit?

It really just depends on what you'll be doing with the car. Because of the overheating oil issues we have already seen, we're going to guess that yes, an oil cooler will be necessary. The good thing though is that the intercooler will not block the oil cooler's that we currently offer so you will have fresh cool air passing through both the intercooler and the oil cooler. If you're racing the car I would definitely recommend the track kit.

We will not be supplying an oil cooler in the kit because not everyone will need it. It will really depend on what is being done with the car.
I don't know yet about the affects on the auto trans. One of our test cars is a G37 coupe automatic trans so we will know soon!

Ok kinda off topic but kyle u might know the answer. I know there is a difference between the canadian version of the Z's and the US version, ie...fog light. Is there a difference in this cooling issue everyone keeps bringing up? I made 5+ passes down the 1/4 mile and never seen temps above 100*C and it was 30*C weather.

you just threw out celsius numbers...Let me recalculate to fahrenheit...friggin' Canucks! LOL

100* temps= 212
30* temps=86

OK, so when visiting the 1/4 mile on an 86 F degree day you are seeing temperatures in the 212 F range.

I can't say exactly what is different but a 13 second pass down a 1/4 mile is not giving the engine much time to heat up the oil in comparison to a 30 minute session around a race track where you are constantly unloading and loading the engine and putting significant stress on the oiling system. I'm not saying that a blast down the drag strip is easy on the oiling system, but in comparison the race track is going to be harder on the oil for a longer period of time. It is my understanding that the majority of the cars overheating the oil are experiencing this issue on the race track.

Actually we have talked about the possibility of having a dual map setup on the tune with the ability to swap out pulleys for more boost and higher octane tune for track use and a streetable tune for 91 octane. The only problem with that will be to work out the tuning. The easiest way to do a system along those lines would be a piggyback tuner with 6 additional injectors. So yes, it is an option that we have discussed but it's not something that I have any final details on just yet.

No matter what, there will be no A/C delete or anything like that. The system will be designed to work with all of your factory systems.

I don't know about power gains or lag until we get the car up on the dyno and start testing.

makes sense... anxiously awaiting further detail

casting looks superb btw!

Wow Kyle I'm impressed. Thanks for the pics and thanks for the answers to my ?'s....

My car blew up today... I wish I would have bought all of the items that you suggested... I couldn't freakin stop to hop out the big ball of fire that was my car because I didn't get the darn brake upgrade and fluid upgrade... Damn, wouldn't that bl0ww..

Anyway, I think I am going to wait for the S/C release then just buy all of your suggestions then... Thanks again... I love the pics by the way...

How soon before we can see some NUMBERS?!?!?!?!

:eek::eek2:

wow, you are the man for keeping a positive attitude !

I say he deserves to see some numbers! :)

Like this?

http://www.abc.net.au/reslib/200709/r184852_687001.jpg

$350 from saferacer FYI :driving:

http://assets0.saferacer.com/images/P/2313_1_lg.gif

HAHA halon great stuff if you want to die from asphyxiation. Just remember to put one nozzle in the passenger compartment pointed at your face. That is race only fer sure.

Intake looks great :tup: it will be an interesting piece with both pipes routed to the one side, cant wait for pics :yum:

Where is the supercharger going to mount?

I am very interested to see how all the piping is ran and what it all looks like under the hood.