Wow cool beans

Pretty much everything Sasha just stated. I spoke to Comp Turbo this morning. Comp stated that this was possibly a install error while clocking...... They said when I clocked the turbo the gasket most likely got pinched or became misaligned when it was rotated to line up with my piping. Even though everything appeared okay prior to starting the vehicle and even idling okay....meaning nothing seemed misaligned at the time, once the turbo got some heat and boost through it the housing began to contact the impeller blade. This would explain why I was able to get into the boost slightly a couple times and somewhere not to long after this I started to notice the noise. I asked Comp if this rubber gasket is oiled slightly during assembly to avoid the gasket getting pulled slightly when rotating and they said it does.........my thinking was that a dry rubber gasket would want to pull a little bit when rotating the turbo housing for clocking. Comp said that they would cover this under warranty and I should receive the turbo back probably by Friday.......I am not sure what is being replaced on the turbo itself as of now so I'll see on Friday when is arrives.

To sum everything up with Comp Turbo and Sasha at Boosted Performance

Great customer service
Takes initiative on providing feedback and solutions to customer issues
Fast shipping and response
Good Product

As far as how to avoid this from happening to anyone else in the future................I am not sure as I thought I was being as careful as possible and not forceful with anything with this turbo. The gasket we are speaking about was never removed from the turbo.....so my best guess is that it got pinched during tightening. I hope sharing this information helps others in the community as there are not hundreds of these setups out there.

Is there a way to edit the title of a thread?

Hopefully they clock it to match what they received. :)

They did say that they would send it to me clocked the way I had it.

This is great news! (Hear that Elmo?)

Still in the air about the oiless. Leaning with the ball beating

Glad to hear you got this all sorted mate. Do have a question though, wouldn't turning the compressor wheel, or turbine wheel by hand feeling for odd points of resistence given you a clue to this?

This is what I don't understand. I don't recall feeling any type of resistance on the turbine prior to starting the vehicle. My guess to this would be that once the turbo came under boost and heat something changed........Or it happened when I had the bolts all loose to clock the turbo and when I twisted it into its final position I never checked it by spinning the turbine because at this time it's already mounted into the final position and I just ended up putting the air filter on it.
Remember though I was able to drive the car a half mile getting into the boost a couple times with no issues......it ran great no weird noises, spooled up fast....so something changed after the second time getting into boost.

My guess is that you damaged the thrust bearing, allowing the impeller to come in contact with the bowl. But that's based on my experience with industrial blowers, so YMMV.

Just for the simple fact that comp is being awesome about this I'll probably go for them. I've heard a couple not so good stories of people trying to deal with precision


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I did notice that when I tried to clock the compressor side that it wouldn't turn very easy .. I didn't force it and just ended up mounting the turbo with the grease nipple on the side ... so far seems to be running great ... just have minor adjustments to the exhaust that will clear up last bit of vibration.

Precision was absolutely brutal when it came to this sort of stuff. I covered installation damages from my own pocket for customers on Precision turbos.

No matter what, they always say: "It's oil contamination, not our fault". I was getting fed up with them.

COMP has the same business and customer service values as Boosted Performance. For that reason, I will only offer COMP turbos with these kits, whether it is JB, BB, or oil-less turbos.

I was pretty surprised with being able to speak with them and how quickly their follow up was....especially with this situation. I heard from other people about different Turbo manufacturers getting a hold of anyone or even a return email is impossible, this is not the case with Comp. I will be confident running this turbo in the built longblock when I get it.

As a result of this incident, COMP will be adding grease to the O-ring that seals the compressor cover to the back plate. This will allow for the cover to rotate much easier once the bolts are loosened for clocking purposes.

Even with the rarest problems they're adapting their production methods to avoid future issues. Now that's a great company to do business with. No pointing fingers at the consumer or production/R&D line. They just adapt for the better.

That being said I was on the fence about this company due to their lack of exposure to our platform, but now after this thread I can see they care about their product and more importantly us customers.

Thanks for the update!

Absolutely!

I am really impressed with how this company handles themselves, and their customers. Unbelievable customer service, to go along with superb/fast communication.

How do we rotate the cover and avoid the issue ...mine wouldn't rotate easily so I didn't clock that side ..I should be able to get to the grease fitting still ..just looking for plan be if I can't.

Took the sparkplugs out and used my camera scope to see if I could see anything in the cylinders. Unfortunately I could not see the cylinder walls very good but did notice a small aluminum shard sitting on top of one the pistons. I took the intercooler off and noticed some larger shards of aluminum piled up in one corner. At this time I was hoping nothing substantial made it past the intercooler...............once I took my throttle bodies and inlet tubes off I noticed what I would consider a lot of metal dust stuck to the silicone couplers shown in the pics below.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4438/...2e44412b_k.jpg20170819_165923_1503282988297_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4385/...e0eae3e4_k.jpg20170819_165837_1503282991441_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/...567ef20c_k.jpg20170819_165826_1503282994651_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/...136a515a_k.jpg20170819_165754_1503282996561_resized by , on Flickr
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4350/...d766ee92_k.jpg20170819_165646_1503283002932_resized by , on Flickr

I drained the oil and did notice a somewhat glitter look to it or at least noticed tiny metal dots in the oil. I attempted to remove the oil pan but it did not want to budge and I certainly did not have the patience to mess with it today.

At this point I think the only thing I can do is literally remove the whole turbo kit and disassemble the BOV and Wastegates clean everything up, take the intercooler to a shop and have it ultrasonic cleaned in a tank and go from there.

I think I am at a point now though that I may end up just selling everything at a loss and buying a sweet minivan. I have had a rash of bad luck and unfortunate things happen that make me think it is just not meant to be :(
What do you all think?

*Boosted Performance turbo (turn key kit) (fits VQ35HR)
*Haltech Platinum Pro with VQ35HR harness, Haltech IO Expander 12, Haltech Boost Selenoid, AEM 5.2bar MAP sensor and Haltech Wideband controller with 2 Bosch Widebands.
*Southbend Stage 3 Daily (quiet disk option) with Southbend DXD flywheel
*ZSPEED HD slave cylinder SS lines
*Wilwood HD Clutch master cylinder with SS lines
*Osiris Tuner
*Osiris Standard (this was before I purchased the turbo kit)
*AEM UEGO AF gauge
*AEM Boost gauge
*Greddy Profec B boost controller
*3.5 VLSD diff 50k miles
*Z1 3in single exit exhaust

I'm sure I am missing some other items.

I will get the turbo tomorrow evening to check it out and see what was replaced.

Did you consider sending an oil sample off to get analyzed? Just for scientific proof? I know it doesn't make much difference at this point. Sorry man :(

It didn't cross my mind at the time, I still have the oil in the container but I don't think a sample is even needed at this point lol. No worries, this stuff happens...........you never know I may end up buying a GTR when this is all said and done.

Sorry yo hear that

Knuckles; Vacuum & flush that thing out good.
Don't hang your head,as this is very mild compared to some hard steel parts.
I'd pull all plugs,upper & lower plenum & vacuum it out well...this was new aluminum-so it will be easy to see & remove.
Also back-blow & flush intercooler & piping in a reverse fashion.
Clean maf's & change oil after initial break-in.
I would not remove oil pan.
Keep Your Head Up & Think Positive!!!

I agree with Hammond, clean it all up real good and go with it.

It not really as bad as it seems. I've had broken valve heads, piston lands, ring sections, and all types of stuff go thru my engine top end after drag racing for 25 plus years. These engines can tolerate a lot of debris, and still run perfectly.

Haven't had anything this bad yet! But I'm on the keep ur head up train!! U bought a z probably because u love the cars it does suck, but if it were easy everyone would be running around boosted.


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You left out the $20k it costs. That's a huge factor.

Bruh you don't just give up like that. Your luck is'nt the worst to be had. First my intercooler mount's were wrong, then I got the wrong compressor cover, then my transmission harness melted on the dyno. I had a fuel leak at the hard line and then on the day I finally got my car tuned it was spiking to 16psi so the tuner refused to tune it past wastegate. All that seem bad enough? Well I was so proud of my 509rwhp I decided to boost the hell out of it not 24hrs after being tuned. That did'nt work out so well because it spiked at 23psi right before the pistons, rods and valves turned into oil pan glitter. And all this was on a 2015 Nismo. Today that bastard is running strong as hell at 9psi and very shortly it'll be sporting a built longblock with stage 2 cams. We will all at some point have "Boosted People Problems" but that's all part of being able to say "I made this work." Don't give up man, just build the car you had in your head before you bought the first part,

I love how the alternative to a 500+whp boosted Z is "a sweet minivan".

Well at least he did'nt say "On 22's"

Turbovan.net

Savage.

I updated the 1st post to show that post #79 and #82 will have further explanation on how this was a install error and not a manufacturing defect.


I think I am going to take a little break from the car and focus on work, I knew I was on borrowed time with the stock block but I may end up just putting a whole new one in. I have been speaking with RJM about building a complete turn key closed deck engine and then just sending my car to a well known shop for install and tune along with some other goodies. I just need to talk myself off the ledge about selling the car and buying a used (holds finger quotes in air) Minivan is what I told my wife.....lol but actually getting a GTR as this would be a whole other set of problems and issues that I wouldn't want with a 70k used vehicle...

Prior to the engine being fed metal I had
Compression Cylinders #1. 185 #2. 175 #3. 175 #4. 175 #5. 180 #6. 175
Leak Down % 15% 18% 22% 25% 18% 15%

The leak down I think already wrote this motors fate of being replaced................now with the metal dust.....kind of seals the deal. The last thing I want to happen though is to dump an additional 10k + on top of what I have already put in just to have something go wrong with my new engine if I end up getting one................I keep hearing stories of boosted Z's getting the piss run out of them with no issues at all.......I would like to be one of these people lol.

Having been around racing motors and such. If this was me. What I would do is get the intercooler cleaned out. Take all of the inlet piping off and clean it out. Remove the inlet manifolds and clean them out. Reassemble everything. And enjoy driving a boosted Z. Aluminum flakes passing through the motor won't do much. The heat from combustion will burn them up, and split what remains out the exhaust. I've seen motors take in a lot worse and keep on going.

The thing that concerns me at this point if I decide to keep running the stock block after cleaning everything..............from what I have been told is that there is a chance if or when the stock block lets go I could end up damaging the turbo? I always thought worst case scenario I throw a rod through the block and boom thats it just buy another motor. Does anyone have any insight on a worst case scenario if the stock block takes a S#!t do I risk damaging the turbo.....I am not fond of buying multiple turbos and intercoolers right now.

The last one I remember was Nik@Sohomotorsports,
Give him a cat& ask; as he's very friendly to speak with.
Also: for the compression/leak down test....Forced induction will seal that up- it's not necessarily a bad thing to have a bit of clearance in there.
Don't burn yourself out; we've all been there with some sorta issues with either the Z's or something different.
A little time away to clear your thoughts could be good.

Why absolutely! When my motor took a poop one of the first things I saw in the exhaust manifold was pieces of metal. Interestingly enough they were also in the downpipe. They did'nt kill the turbo but they broke pieces off of the turbine wheel and killed my exapump. The turbo would still boost but it was'nt what it was supposed to be. The fix was to do a rebuild and replace the turbine wheel with a new balanced wheel.

I popped 3 cylinders at once on my 03 350z with a greddy kit back in the day. Turbos and everything else was fine. Just had to replace one valve, build a forged block and replace the upper oil pan. Thing was solid AF after the build.

Every grenade is different tho. I just boosted my 370 and I'm already planning the rebuild cause I know it's going to happen at some point.

Well unfortunately me and the wife have some disagreements about my hobby and where I was planning on going with it. I will be selling and parting out everything I have. The turbo kit will come with a brand new turbo and brand new intercooler 0 miles on them to avoid any metal dust concerns, rest of the kit has 2.5 miles on it. I will start disassembly soon and will update this thread when everything is posted in the classifieds.

Heartbreaking. My condolences. I hope you get the sweetest of minivans.

Damn!! Sorry to hear that. I've been in your boat and I completely understand. Some things I do I wage a savage disinformation campaign on. My engine popping is still refuted to be damaged spark plugs in some wine drinking circles brought on by me refusing to listen to the GF when she told me something smelled like gas in the garage allegedly.

Bummer. :( I've bee in that boat too with the first wife. :icon14: Second wife has been great. Long as the bills are paid, and I keep her happy.