THANKS! By the way, tell them I've found four (4) forumites that have mentioned this issue, all who have the AAM Oil Pan Spacer:

1. ZOperaMan (me)
2. alanforn (you)
3. Ill ( http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3256090 )
4. Aviator44 ( http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ml#post3256412 )

I know "correlation is not causation" but they should definitely investigate.

--ZOM

I certainly will, should have a reply tomorrow.

AAM TT Oil Pressure Light
 

Just to follow up on the intermittent oil pressure light appearing after AAM TT install:

I did contact AAM via PM, but never got a response.

After a couple of tuning adjustments, and about 1000 miles of break-in, I no longer see the oil pressure idiot light flicker. The idle speed may have been adjusted slightly, but it still idles as low as 800 RPM. The only factor I can think of is oil weight may have changed after break-in oil change.

I still want to get a real oil pressure gauge with sender; just need to figure out best configuration that will keep both factory switch and new pressure sensor, along with the AAM tee fitting.

--ZOM

I had a oil pressure sensor installed on my mishimoto oil cooler adapter


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One possibility:

Ive always been paranoid about the mating surface condition between the block and the pickup tube.

If you install an "aftermarket" spacer between the pick up tube and the block then you would introduce another possible leak point.

This spacer has to be "leak proof" on both the block side and the tube side. So, proper surface conditions on all mating surfaces, proper sealer and bolt torque are required to make the joint seal perfectly.

The oil pump is located above the pick up tube flange, and the oil pump would much rather pump air than oil. If the pick up spacer/flange joint is not submerged in oil and not 100% leak proof, the pump might suck air.

Is the flange exposed to air when you turn the car and the oil slosh goes to one side?

Dont know for sure, but its a concern I would have.

A way to eliminate this issue is to make the switch to a dry sump system.

Be very careful with that. One member here had that part fail and it dumped all the oil. Damn near cost him a new motor, and all Mishimoto did as far as their "lifetime warranty" was send him a new o-ring. Not even a whole new adapter, just the o-ring.

Every install I've seen for the extended pickup tube has you rtv the mating surfaces, so you shouldn't have an issue with it sucking air through the cracks.

Any other recommendations for a 3-way connection?

--ZOM

I just did a bunch of research on oil filter adapters and relocation before I decided I didn't really need to relocate my oil filter..

Anything you buy that adapts to the oil filter location on the motor just needs to fit a 20mm oil filter stud. You can find something from summit racing, Mocal (batinc.net), or Earl's (sold at summit and holley). Most of the inexpensive parts you will find are cast - I would recommend AGAINST getting any cast parts. I ordered a bunch of them and every single one had some kind of imperfection in the mating surface. Spend the extra money for a billet part (and with some brands it isn't even that much more expensive).