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Recent starting issues. Fuel problem?
So up front, my car has the AAM TT kit, tuned with uprev, and it's been boosted for 20K+ miles without any issue regarding starting.
About a week ago I went to start my car after a week of sitting. The car took 6-8 cranks before it started. I didn't think anything of it since the cars been sitting and it ran perfectly fine once started. Well, ever since then the issue is replicated on every startup. It will fire up but only after 8-10 cranks The battery was replaced 3 months ago. I had it checked just to make sure it wasn't the issue and it's good. The car runs absolutley fine once it's running. Tuning is spot on and I'm reading 52 psi on fuel pressure at idle. I haven't checked the fuel px on startup yet. I did notice that the fuel pump prime does sound a little different than how It normally does. Anyone have any ideas on where I should begin to figure this out? |
I'm also running the AAM TT Kit and about the same mileage it's been on. Once it's been driven for a while and I go to turn her back on it fires up like a dream. Checked my plugs about a month ago and they were good. I'm real curious to see if anyone knows what's up with this.
11' 370z TT |
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If you find the problem let me know. I've been having similar issues for a bit now. I have a Fast Intentions tt. It always happen when the car sits for like 8 hours. It does crank but hesitant to do so then it revs all by itself to 2k rpms to get going. Afterwards the car drive normally and then cranks every time on the 1st try without any problem. I upgraded both injectors and pump 2 months ago. Hoping is not a damn injector going bad...they are expensive.
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Starter may be going out? They can get real warm in these turbo cars.
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Check your fuel pressure before you start the engine. It should be around 50psi unless it has been setting for a long time (weeks). If the pressure is good then look elsewhere. If the pressure has leaked down try this. Turn the car on but don't start it. This will allow the pump to run a few seconds. Check the pressure again. If it is good then try and start the engine. If it fires up normally then you may have a fuel pressure regulator problem (leaking).
You might want to check your battery starting voltage too. It should not drop below about 10 volts when the engine is turning over. If it does then you have a weak battery. Good luck and let us know what you find. |
i would check the spark plugs too, my spark plugs were shot after zdayz.
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When i was hit the gas hard it would cut out. Almost like it was choking. We did a lot tests on the fuel system and it was the spark plugs all along
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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:iagree:
Fuel pressure should be good for days if the system is healthy. |
If you have a return fuel system on your turbo car, usually fuel pressure will not hold more than a few seconds after the pump is off. Aftermarket regulators are not designed to hold pressure.
To crank from zero pressure rather then a primed system should only add an extra 2 cranks or so until it starts. If the car starts hot, but doesnt start cold, (assuming plugs are good and nothing strange is going on) it is most likely an issue in the calibration. Getting a perfect tune that starts quickly in every circumstance can be harder than it sounds with many computer systems. In my Z, I used to have a random problem with hot starts that I never fully worked out in UpRev, but it would cold start E85 1000cc injectors dead middle of winter 0 degrees out like it was factory stock on a summer day. My mustang is tuned by one of the best tuners in the industry for that platform and it has intermittent issues with cold starting where sometimes it doesnt even start on the first cycle. Its worth chasing it a bit, to make sure nothing is actually wrong physically with the fuel system or plugs etc. But if you get it nailed down to the ECU calibration, it may or may not be easily correctable. |
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The car has the starting issue regardless of temperature. The only time It doesn't have the starting issue is when I start the car immediately after turning it off. I'm assuming the quick restart isn't giving the system enough time to lose pressure. If I wait 10 mins or so, the problem is back. I should also note that the car has nearly 20K miles being boosted. The tuning has always been spot on and it still is once the car is running. The car has always started fine in the coldest Ohio winters and even on the hottest summer days since moving to Florida. The problem just randomly started a few weeks ago. I have your mini fuel gauge. I've noticed that while the car is cranking, fuel pressure increases a little bit each crank until finally reaching 40-50 psi after 10 cranks or so, then the car fires. It's like the system is unable to instantly provide the necessary fuel pressure anymore. |
If you are still running the stock (non-return) system then you do have a problem. It could either be the fuel pump check valve or the pressure regulator. Hope it is the fuel pump because that is an easy fix where the regulator isn't. The stock pressure regulator is a part of the fuel pump assembly and isn't sold separately. A new fuel pump assembly will run you around $500. I would think that this would be the perfect time to go to a return fuel system and external regulator with boost compensation. Good luck!
Give Charles (Phunk) a call. He is super easy to work with and has quality products! |
Finally figured out what was giving me issues with my fuel pressure on startup. I was leaning heavily towards a bad check valve, but I pulled the fuel pump assembly today and found this.
http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...s9qybuhax.jpeg http://i1301.photobucket.com/albums/...syx4hbdzm.jpeg |
Nice find! Possibly wasn't submersible rated hose.
CJM Fuel Pump install kit time ;) |
That's not doing you any favors...id hope the hose is rated for submersion. If not it should be available at any local parts house.
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Your fuel pump install kit uses a metal u pipe to remedy this tight bend correct? Plan on ordering one from you tonight. :tup: |
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Phunk, I am running the S1-E kit that is new with the stock hardline being used as return and also E85 and 1150cc injectors. I am having the issue of normal starts being fine especially on E85 but if I drive the car to operating temperature and then shut it off for a short period say to go inside a fast food joint or something ( more than 10 minutes but under 40 ) I am having a very hard time getting it to crank ( no priming, because I never expect this and think of trying to prime), sometimes it takes 8 cranks and once it starts it has low, terribly choppy idle for a minute or two and the first 30 seconds of driving I have terrible lag and no power almost as its trying to die but then it comes out of it and is fine. If it sits an hour or more it will always be fine with no starting issues... any ideas? |
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Yes we use a metal U-Pipe to accomplish the 180 degrees, with 2 short lengths of submersible hose on either end. |
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Just as an aside, my TT kit also came with a U-shaped hardline... I'd imagine most of these systems come with it for a reason... it would be a lot easier to just loop a hose. Just thinking out loud =) |
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BUT you'd be surprised how many shops cant make a proper bubble flare on that tube! We machined a custom die for that. |
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I'm having the same issues. But my hoses all looked fine. Guess ill have to dive further and inspect the hoses alot more cloesly
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Since this thread was last active, I have seen a small handful of cases of the gates submersible hoses failing just like what happened to Aviator44. I suspect that there was a bad batch produced by Gates. This was what prompted me to phase out the Gates submersible hoses and begin replacing them with convoluted PTFE or Nylon for our in-tank applications. That was why I sent you the updated PTFE hoses to replace them with since your kit was purchased around the same time. Id highly recommend installing them.
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