There is it. The real question here is do you want a single turbo setup or twin turbo setup. Both have there pros and cons. As far as I am concerned, there is only one choice for each setup. All of the others that are available are suspect in my book.

If Phunk (CJM) is still selling his Greddy Twins, that would be a pretty good move as well.

Considering these two have spent close to a new house buying turbos, motors, and whatever upgrades I would take their two cents. Do some researching on guys who have built some crazy Z with stroker kits. You definitely have the funds are great, and once you get that beast up and running you will want more power. Like Cosmo said how much money you have to spend will determine how much power you will make.

All this talk of big power, makes me horny. :leghump:

The OP can always do a staged build and spend the "house" over the course of a couple years. The key is engineering the build and choosing parts that allow for growth.

But hey, go all the way if funds are plentiful!

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I see, so sticking with the stock block would be a smarter idea if you're not really looking to fabricate. It'd be better to stick with that 3.7 block and just build from there. What do you think is a good idea for crank if I stick with the stock block?

Not sure, do you have any idea how much pounds of boost the FI Stage 3 kit will go at max? I'm pretty sure I'm not going to reach that max limit anyways, just curious. I'm looking to reach 1000hp and above, reliably.

I'm looking for 1000hp, and I'll definitely do some research on people who have previously purchased the stroker kit and I'll see what they've come out with.
:iagree:

OP the stock crank will be fine for under 1000hp and daily driving. Since many here are already doing that. The link I posted earlier can make you a billet crank which is what I am running but specs for the stock 3.7L. That's the route I would go.

As for your question on the fast intentions stage 3 kit. You should expect about 1100whp out of it. There is only one person with the kit "carbon Z" and his car won't be running until after zdayz. I have talked with fast intentions at length on their turbo choice for the stage 3 and the stage 4 in my case and I am fairly confident that carbon Z will make 1100whp. Whether that's with over 30psi or mid 20's is yet to be seen. And because there are no public turbo maps for these turbos I couldn't tell you where the efficiency ranges are and where you theoretically be able to make that power.

A closed deck 3.7 with a FI stage 2 will make 1000bhp no problem!!!! A stage 3 will make it in whp and a stage 4 will make it on pump gas with ease.

Keep in mind the closed deck block has yet to be tested to it's limitations and reliabilities.. I would highly suggest going with what has been tested and true by people who are not trying endorse others products here on the forum.. You do not need a stroker kit or a closed deck block to reach your hp goals . Just trying to save you time and money but to each his own. Also keep in mind with those power levels you would never to be able to put that power to the ground unless you make a blown race car out of the z.

Cosmo,

Then why are you running a closed deck block? There are significant cooling advantages to a closed deck block versus our factory open deck.

As for putting the power down if I am able to put down over 700tq then yes it's doable... Ecutek has a great traction control system and is arguably better than the race logic system. With the bigger turbos the power curve is different. On a stage 1 kit from fast intentions the first two years are hard to manage based on how quickly torque comes on. On a stage 2 kit 2nd gear becomes manageable. I believe with the stage 3 and 4 kits maintaining traction with an aide like ecutek is very doable given my own experiences.

I see what you mean, I've viewed CarbonZ's 1000 hp build thread but haven't checked back in awhile. I'll keep updated on his thread to see how his build turns out. Since he's the only one with the FI Stage 3 kit, hopefully he'll make a review on it. But, seeing as many people are very happy with the FI Stage 2, it obviously proves FI is reliable, so I don't see why Stage 3 would be any worse, if not better.

So I should plan to build off of my stock 3.7 block, and scratch the stroker kit idea? With a built 3.7 engine and the FI Stage 3 kit, I should be able to reach 1000 hp safely?
Also, do you know anyone whose got the 370Z R-LINE TWIN PUMP FUEL SYSTEM from AAM? It seems like it'll do well, but I don't know how reliable it is.
Of course I might just go with CJM for my fuel.


Thanks for the help

A built 3.7L motor will get you to 1000hp without a problem. However, its to be noted that quality components and a good engine builder can make or break your car and its reliability. For internals I would look into Arias, CP, Mahle, and Carillo. These are the top manufacturers that everyoe with a reliable build is running. A few have chosen K1 rods which are a medium grade budget rod. Its a great rod for those in the 600-700hp range but for 1000hp I would go carillo or Mahle. Arias and CP make great pistons for the Z and have proven to be extremely tough.

Just remember when you go stage 3 with FI they customize your turbos to your motor size to ensure you get the best efficiency and response from the kit. I have had long conversations with Tony (the owner) of Fast Intentions and their mentality to Turbo kits is SPOT ON!

As far as fuel system there are multiple options AAM is one option. However CJM is another option. You will want to go to a twin pump and ID1300's as a minimum.

Remember when you mod this far you have to have the expectation that more service is going to be needed. The reason I say this is because your taking a car making 330bhp and now pushing 350+% more power through the chassis and drivetrain. If your wanting to stage the build I would get a built motor with mild headwork (upgraded valves and retainers plus a port job) in stock displacement and compression and run that until your ready to throw the TT kit and fuel system in at one time.

Staging the install is going to cost your more in the long run if you are using a shop to do the labor. its best to do it all in 1 shot and I would splurge and get ecutek!

10psi is 10psi as the measurement is not taken at the turbo but out of the downstream system, (ie intake pipes and manifold). Now a larger turbo will make a higher boost number and will be running at a much lower percentage of capacity than a smaller turbo at a given boost number. That's where the benefits are derived.

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You have to take flow into consideration. 10psi out of a large turbo is a lot more cfm than the same psi out of a small turbo.

No, it is not. A larger turbo has the potential to flow more cfm and will be using a smaller percentage of its flow potential at the same PSI than a smaller turbo would, but 10 PSI is 10 PSI. If the downstream tubes are larger it would take more volume of air to create 10 lbs of pressure but you would still only have 10 PSI.

PSI is a function of pressure, not volume. The reason it is called FORCED Induction is that you are forcing air into the motor at a rate exceeding what the motor pulls on its own. You can have an unlimited volume (vented to the atmosphere right off of the manifold) of air available and (assuming a correctly designed intake ie no flow restriction) will still only pull in what the motor pulls through its intakes. When you add FI you are utilizing the pressure (PSI bar etc) the device creates to force more air into the motor. Thus 10PSI of air entering the same intake manifold will always be the same 10 PSI of air no matter the size of the pump. The only way to get more air into the motor is to increase the pounds per inch.


What you are describing with the "more cfm" of the larger compressor is pushing more volume into the same space thus raising the PSI of the system.

Ok. So when I look at compressor maps showing flow for different sized turbos showing dramatically different cfm at the same PR, what am I missing?

Like in the following: Compressor maps - examples and explanation

You're confusing the difference in flow and PSI and what each means in terms of getting more air into the motor. If PSI is kept the same the motor could not care less about an increase in flow because without the increase in PSI it is not going to see an increase in the amount of air entering it.

Again, a larger compressor can create higher pressure levels but when run at the same pressure level as a smaller compressor its only advantage is that it is running at a lower percentage of maximum output.

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