Nissan 370Z Forum

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)
-   Forced Induction (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/)
-   -   Limp Stillen Supercharger dtc p1239 (http://www.the370z.com/forced-induction/112749-limp-stillen-supercharger-dtc-p1239.html)

wymoteeZ 04-04-2016 10:34 AM

Limp Stillen Supercharger dtc p1239
 
My Z will go Limp, taking all Throttle response from me.
No pattern. Have to coast off the road to restart.
Mostly takes One restart attempt.
Can take 10-20 restart tries before it will take throttle from idle.
I've done all the re-Learns, no wire pinches, or rubbing.
I replaced the Throttle Body (Bank2) originally,left-side,drivers-side
but I'm still Limp (no viagra jokes)

I am wondering ...
Does the fact that I can't easily get it out of Limp Mode point to anything?

TBatt 04-04-2016 02:05 PM

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/35524-z-unresponsive.html

check this thread

JWillis72 04-04-2016 06:47 PM

How long has the Stillen kit been on the car? Is it doing it when you coast to a stop?

wymoteeZ 04-05-2016 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWillis72 (Post 3451376)
How long has the Stillen kit been on the car? Is it doing it when you coast to a stop?

It's been on the car four months, 3000 miles. I did the 1st SC oil change 500 miles ago. I would say, yes, to the coasting part. It does seem to glitch when rolling under no load. Even an accelerator pedal release to slow on the freeway.
Also, I took it to redline in 3rd gear yesterday at WOT, & noticed power surging every second or so from 5000 rpm up. If that means something. At least I have ruled out the Bank 2 Throttle Body, and any component built into it. Maybe that just leaves the Accel Pedal assembly ? not sure. To be honest, I don't even own an ohm meter. That will be my next purchase. Then I can properly go through the Nissan Service Manual Diagnosis for dtc P1239.

JWillis72 04-05-2016 10:23 AM

Look in your front bumper, can you see your air filters?

JWillis72 04-05-2016 10:26 AM

Odds are the black plastic piece that blocks the lower filter from getting direct are is missing. If its not there the lower MAF get air flowing through it and the top one doesn't, when that happens the car starts dumping fuel because of the strange reading. I've helped 5 or 6 people with this problem, all have made a larger block for the air and it went away.

RadioFlyer 04-05-2016 07:59 PM

Check the extension cables that came with the Stillen kit. Make sure they are fully plugged in and not pinched or anything.

RadioFlyer 04-05-2016 08:01 PM

http://www.the370z.com/tuning/109214...on-sensor.html

wymoteeZ 04-05-2016 08:35 PM

Before the install, I did read where people were making U-shaped metal pieces to block air. My kit came with a Heavy Gauge Steel piece that bolts to the underside of the bumper & Z-bends down & back to route air below the filters. Airflow is not hitting on the side of the filters, but I am willing to eliminate any problem areas.
see 2 pictures of my shield
I guess the front end is coming off this weekend.
And then is it a shield attached to the bumper that 'semi-tightly' wraps both filters ?? (top & Bottom) ??

I understand Nissan throwing a Trouble Code, but disabling the vehicle seems dangerous to me.
Of course, I have modified said vehicle, so my heirs owning Nissan any time soon seems unlikely.
[IMG]http://www.mynetimages.com/5611e15b60.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.mynetimages.com/afad80997f.jpg

JWillis72 04-06-2016 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wymoteeZ (Post 3452231)
Before the install, I did read where people were making U-shaped metal pieces to block air. My kit came with a Heavy Gauge Steel piece that bolts to the underside of the bumper & Z-bends down & back to route air below the filters. Airflow is not hitting on the side of the filters, but I am willing to eliminate any problem areas.
see 2 pictures of my shield
I guess the front end is coming off this weekend.
And then is it a shield attached to the bumper that 'semi-tightly' wraps both filters ?? (top & Bottom) ??

I understand Nissan throwing a Trouble Code, but disabling the vehicle seems dangerous to me.
Of course, I have modified said vehicle, so my heirs owning Nissan any time soon seems unlikely.
[IMG]http://www.mynetimages.com/5611e15b60.jpg[/IMG]
http://www.mynetimages.com/afad80997f.jpg

That looks good, that's probably not your problem.

wymoteeZ 04-07-2016 11:56 AM

First, Thank you for your time & help.
Let's say it's a Lower Filter/maf issue that you said gave people similar symptoms.
Right now p1239 points at Bank 2. I can switch the maf extension cables inside the engine compartment. If I switch them, & I AM getting turbulence hitting the Lower filter, might it then show that the Throttle Position Sensor Bank 1 is faulty ?
if so, Then I could work on that issue with the mafs. & could use a good description of the shield people are making.
if it still throws the same code1239/bank2 --> could I eliminate the maf sensors ?

JWillis72 04-07-2016 01:23 PM

Did you try the throttle relearn?

My shield was about 12" long and deep enough that I could wrap it about half way the back of the lower filter. I screwed it to the metal bumper after hand bending it into shape. What you described sounded just like how my car acted but I don't recall if it gave me a code or not.

Swapping the MAF wires should make it change sides if that is the problem but if it's a bad MAF wire it would also change sides. I would say it's worth trying.

wymoteeZ 04-10-2016 10:12 AM

Yes, I always run through the 3 resets.
pedal released position relearn, throttle valve closed position relearn, & the idle-air volume relearn. The idle-air relearn can be tricky. My experience with that relearn procedure has taught me to recognize when it does not take correctly. (I think) After the 5 pedal pushes, 7 second wait, & the final pedal push --> if the check engine light goes steady before say 10 seconds, then you need to try again. If it's done properly, it will be in the 12-18 second range after the final pedal push, before the light goes steady & you release the pedal within 3 seconds from that. Then let it idle for 20-30 seconds.

wymoteeZ 04-10-2016 10:47 AM

Here we go.
To sum it up so far. Originally getting code p1239 after Z disables itself in limp mode. Replaced full Throttle Body Bank2/left/driver-side. After the same problem, to see if it might be the lower-filter MAF air-turbulence problem, I switched the MAF cables under the hood to see if it would fault Bank 1 throttle position sensor instead. I am now getting the same p1239 code after that switch. So, it does not matter which MAF is sending the signal for Bank 2.
Moving forward to the Stillen Throttle Body extension cable. I checked continuity of each wire in the TB extension cable used for that Bank 2 Throttle Body. That looks good.
I have also used Osirus to check that my Accelerator Pedal is sending proper Voltage to both Banks equally.
I'm stumped. Had my 4 yr. old battery showing 12.00 volts at rest with Osirus.
Pulled it & had it tested --> showed good --> bought a new one anyway, & putting it in today.

RadioFlyer 04-10-2016 11:22 AM

I was out of ideas when I had the same problem. As a last attempt at *anything*, I looked up wire shielding in case there was any interference getting in the way of the TPS extension cable supplied by Stillen. That's the one that crosses over the front of the motor. I ended up wrapping my cable extension cable from connector to connector with aluminum foil, and letting it ground itself on the block. I used electrical tape to secure it, and made sure there were not any exposed wires. Well, coincidence or not, I haven't had the problem since. It's worth a try, won't cost you anything.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:57 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2