I'm laughing too lol it really got me going tho

NA. Not planning too. I want to but i just want to bore it and run it NA. Upgrade the trans as much in the process.

I hear the Z's are really good NA

Not really. You heard wrong. NA is a waste of money. You need to do a lot more research. The best NA build was at 370whp, and he spent a fortune getting there.

Also, unless you're planning a big power FI build, you don't need a built motor. If you're ok with 500whp, you're ok with the stock block.

really? I cant imagine FI being less costly...man..i need to reevaluate a whole lot..I am perfectly ok with 500 whp...Thats more than enough for me.. especially since i wont be doing that much track use just more spirited driving mainly. I mean I want gains just like anyone else but I figured with less track use NA would be cost efficient for the gains but I guess not.

What mods would be safe to do FI and would you go the stillen route vs like a aam tt kit? Again medium track use.

Fast intentions or boosted performance. Budget $15k.

The other option is cai, test pipes, cat back and tune. Be happy with 330 whp. If you by used parts, you'll be able to do that for $2500 or so.

I guess I'm just trying to make sure my car is durable for the power I want but I guess I wouldn't be getting much with NA. i'll do some research on the FI. All I hear about is people blowing their motors but maybe its people with huge FI lol Thanks again.

IMNSHO, if you're going to do any work on an engine, balancing and blueprinting (plus port matching and polishing where needed) are all just part of doing it right. Doesn't make sense to me to go to the trouble/expense of rebuilding/modding and do it half-a$$ed. But maybe I'm OCD, too. ;)

Actually, there's relatively few blown motors from people who buy good kits, proper supporting mods and get a good tune. There's always the potential for failure, but the vq is pretty solid at high power levels.

You always need some savings in case things go south, but there's a lot of guys with a lot of miles on boosted 370s.

balancing blueprinting? Polishing? You mean with pistons rods balancing etc? but blue printing...As far as specs and what not? Again I'm new so the terminology your using is like chinese. Is there a link for that here?

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ed-builds.html

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...ion-noobs.html

Here's some good reading to get you started.

The other thing to think about is how much power you really are comfortable with. With full bolt ons and a tune, 330 whp is still a lot of go, especially if you get the suspension dialed in and can drive. It's not a number you'll brag about, but it's not slow at all. Swap out the rear end gear, and you've got a very quick car. 450+whp is a whole different animal. It will require serious respect. If you mat the throttle when you shouldn't, it'll throw you off the road backwards. It's a lot of fun, but you've got to be paying attention at all times. And some of the compromises you'll make for the power will make the car suck as a commuter. The clutch you'll need will be a pain in traffic, for one. It's all a trade-off.

And is this something I do upon FI when I am ready or now before all that? Or are you saying IYNSHO thats what getting it right is as far as making sure the motor is right for any use? lol serious question

All you need for the motor is a compression test, leakdown test and an oil analysis. If everything looks good, you'll be fine. Do all the supporting mods when you put the kit on and make sure you have a good shop and tuner. Keep up on maintenance. These motors are stout unless you get unlucky or cut corners.

Thanks for the link. I'm all for respect. I don't get careless with things I don't fully understand. hence all the questions. I'm not looking to brag but I do want fun. 500whp is something I would be more than happy with and comfortable with. I don't think I even need/want that much. 450whp is good for me too as far as being comfortable. That's why I wanted to go NA because I really dont have a need for big gains. I just wanted a durable motor but it cost a fortune. And I may have misunderstood durability as far as cars go. I was thinking that any FI you NEED forged internals. I was wrong. Now FI seems cheaper and my motor doesnt need to be THAT durable for my ideal of power. I purchased an ATC clutch (street) and pressure plate but thats just because I need one. will I need an upgrade to that if I do take the FI route? And understood about the trade off...i'm def starting to see that

Copy. TYhanks again guys. Let me do some reading and All advice is taken to account. Thanks again Chuck33079 and SouthArk370Z. I appreciate all this. I'll do some more research and tone it down with the forged ****. I'll see what supporting mods I'll need to be safe. Blueprinting and balancing will something I'll look into as well. So right now these are the mods I purchase

ACT Clutch pressure plate.
CF drive shaft (1 piece)
HD Slave
New Master
4.08 gearing pin
Quaife 1.5 LSD
Short shifter
RJM clutch pedal


To build up to FI in the future anything I should purchase or does the kit usually come with all that i'll need (other than what SouthArk370z said about balancing and blueprinting?)