cool, GL with your install.

read somewhere..used tennis ball to install? :ugh:
kinda like using pliers to loosen lugs. :ugh2:

A tennis ball might come in handy for a few spots (eg, doors) but, yeah, it wouldn't my first choice for most areas. A wooden roller was all I needed to do the rear towers and back.

yah, let's use the right tools...

I've never understood why everyone hates on asphalt base. Spending money on audio branded stuff is absurdly expensive.

Simple 'Peel n Seal' roofing from lowes/home depot works just as well. Yes it's asphalt base, no it's not intended for audio/dampening. It does NOT smell in summer, idk anyone who has had that issue. I live in Florida, it gets quite hot here with a black car, again, never had an issue. It's 100$ for 100 square feet (essentially 2 layers on the entire car).

Sealed my entire Z except the roof, A Pillars, and floor. With stock exhaust it was luxury car quiet inside. Now I have header back non res, not so quiet lol. Also have 3k watts of audio in the car. The only rattle in the car is a single bolt somewhere in my driver's door (which i can't seem to figure out).

Egg crate works well for a small patch behind speakers, increases the sq. I'm assuming gun foam would work the same or better, especially if it's a small layer on top of mat.

I used hands because I didn't have a roller, and I took a lot of time. Some people use a tenis ball basically to prevent hurting your hands over time. A roller doesn't work for a lot of areas imo.

Okay it deff improved and no rattles - but now it seems road noise is now isolated to the front through doors- he wanted another $400 to do doors and under seats- I would like to attempt my self- how hard is it to take off the doors and install ? Any how to guides out there ?

It's in the diy section
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...aker-size.html

As for putting the sound proofing in,sounds like a roller and something to get into hard to reach places?

because your car will smell like asphalt all summer if it gets hot. thats why

cause it smells like assfart.

Has anyone just put a stuffed amount of acoustic foam in the rear hatch area underneath the carpet? Then possibly topped with a thicker carpet or closed cell foam mat on top to block road noise from back there?

I'm wondering if this would make a difference or not if it was filled/stuffed in the open areas underneath.

I think it would. Pretty sure someone stuffed a moving blanket in there and noticed a difference. And quietest my car has ever been was when I had a couple good size soft-sided coolers in the back. IMHO, the big thing is to keep the sound from bouncing off the glass and forward to the seats. The glass is like a perfect cone to send the sound forward. Not sure that it's as much of a decibel problem as it is a focus of the soundwaves problem.

After I had the interior panels re-installed after installing the sound damping, but without spare/sub/carpet, the cabin was pretty noisy. The damping material helped a lot, but it was still noisier than no damping with spare/sub/carpet. Put everything back in the car and it was much quieter than without damping. So, yeah, I'd say that something like a thicker pad under the carpet would help.
You can install sound damping in the floor of the hatch area without doing any major dis-assembly of the interior. Should have the same (or better) effect than thicker pad/carpet. Covering the strut towers and wheel wells will do more good but you have to remove interior panels.

ScottIN is right about the back glass - great sound reflector. Nice if you have a Bose sub but terrible for road noise. Some internal louvers might help but there's not a lot you can do about it.

Thanks! I think I'm going to try just to see if it'll help a little. I've kinda gotten used to the road noise until I drive another car lol..

This is something...
 

I'm going to try to tackle over the winter.
I have NO experience with cars but worked building offices for years in buildings where we tried to keep noise from being transmitted to adjacent offices from audio/video/boardrooms, etc. Hence, I subscribe to the school that you use a layer of dampening material, a layer of close coupled foam, a layer of sound blocker and if you have the additional space, some sound absorber.
This is the site I found valuable.

Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown

My intentions are to do my install following this guy's methods. It remains to be seen what room I will have on the sides of the hatch and the doors. I see no issues with the hatch floor.
It looks as though I need at least 3/8".....more would be a luxury. The layer of absorber may wind up being deleted on the hatch sides and doors.

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I have inquired in my area and it was 400 with hush mat for the door panels and rear hatch area. Its worth that price in my opinion.