Gauge Cluster does not turn on!?
 

I had planned to go for a test drive once I got my gauges powered up. On a DYI for a triple gauge pod the guy used the stock triple gauge power source to run his gauges. So I naturally decided to do the same thing and wired up my PLX gauges to this power source which stopped working after about 30 seconds of the gauges being on. Turns out the draw was to much for the stock wiring, but no big deal ill just swap out a fuse and figure something else out right?

Not so easy, there was no blown fuse anywhere. I am going to assume that the stock fuse was oversized to much for what I assume must be the BCM. Now the ACC wire that ran to the Combination Meter (Nissans name for the gauge cluster) is dead. I traced it all the way down to the fuse block on the drivers side but am at a loss as to how the wires are laid out within this fuse block. It appears that the BCM is not sending the signal to turn on the dash because I am thinking the draw fried that circuit. What I did try is I manually jumpered the ACC wire and everything fired up and worked just fine, no codes or any issues. Here is a pic of what I did.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps8a292629.jpg

I would like to figure out if it is possible to fix this short of replacing the BCM. If I could figure out where to go from here I would like to trace it right back to the BCM. Worst case ill just wire in that ACC wire in the fuse block and add another fuse for it. It was not a fun night.

Anyone have any suggestions? I would strongly recommend not using that power source for your gauges, boost controllers, ect. At the very least use the acc with a relay to keep the draw down.

Here is the schematic, it could also be the ignition switch that **** the bed, maybe its time to try out a GTR one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ps3e52efa5.jpg

Are you sure fuse #4 (10A) is not blown? Check it with a meter or test light. Can't trust them lyin' eyes. ;)

Edit: You can find pinouts and wire colors in the FSMs.

Positive, Checked it numerous times with a Ohm meter as well as switched in fuses just to try. Something popped on the back side of the fuse and im starting to lean towards the ignition switch. I am going to try and make sure my S mode switch still works because it looks like that comes off the same lead as this line.

Argh, and I was so close to going for a test drive too. Does anyone know how the wiring works inside of the fuse block? I am going to assume this is not in the service manual, I tried to find it with no luck. There also must be some sort of relay for the ignition switch, there is no way a combined 20amps through that switch. I am yet to find it, maybe the issue is that.

Check the PG section of the FSM. It has the wiring diagrams and pinouts. Nissan calls that fuse block the "FUSE BLOCK - JUNCTION BOX (J/B)".

As far as I can tell, the internal wiring is just a bunch of buses and there are no controls hidden internally.

I'm not sure where the power comes from for Fuses #3 and #4. Possibly the IPDM-E/R. It is in the wiring diagrams.

If you can't find what you need, let me know and I'll dig deeper.

Thanks man, I have spent probably 5-6 hours going through it between last night and this morning.

What I realized this morning is the back of the (J/B) has the relays on it. So what I am going to do when I get home from work is pull the #4 fuse and make sure that when the ignition is on I have power to that fuse slot. If I dont I will try and trace it to a relay within that box by testing continuity between that fuse slot and the corresponding relay pin. If that checks out then I will make sure that the relay is getting power from what I would assume is the ignition switch.

If there is no power to turn on the relay then I am leaning towards a faulty ignition switch, however I see no way of how even directly shorting out the gauge wires would make its way back past the relay, the two circuits are not connected. There is a diagram showing an Accessory relay on the back side of this panel, but one would think that this would control much more than just the one fuse.

The power for the fuses do come from the IPDM as you figured, but I do know that there is power at this panel, everything else works but this one circuit. Its almost like something let go inside of this (J/B) between Pin 12C and the relay its connected to.

yikes...

i use a wireless ecoRoute module plugged into my obd2 + a nuvi to get the misc gauges to display.

I'm just glad I can figure my way through all this, it would be an expensive bill to bring to Nissan. Ill figure it out one way or another, didnt go to University for 4 years to not be able to solve a problem, haha.

I could of went with just a straight up monitor but having the triple gauges above the nav will look and work much better IMO.

^^ sounds good. i thought you were relying 100% on google. :rofl2:


this is how my nuvi (with digital gauges) are setup in my car.

Power from battery to Fuse Block J/B:
Battery to Fusible Link Holder fuse #A (140A)
Fusible Link Holder fuse #A to Fusible Link Holder fuse #B (100A)
Fusible Link Holder fuse #B (terminal 1) to Fuse & Fusible Link Block
Fuse & Fusible Link Block fuse #G (30A) to Fuse Block J/B terminal 1E (and IPDM terminal 36)

Taken from 2009 FSM PG-6 - PG-8

All of these were checked, I ran an ohm meter through every single fuse on the car. I know I have power to Fuse Block J/B, all this is referring to the power routing from the battery to the fuse block. Regardless, I will check again tonight.

OK.
Scrolling down to page PG-19, I see that fuse #9 (10A) of the FBJ/B goes to the push-button start switch (plus the key slot and clutch i/l switch).
PG-38 says fuse #19 (10A) supplies the combo meter (is that the same as triple-gauge or is it the tach/speedo?).
PG-42 shows the Ignition Relay on the back of FBJ/B that turns on fuses #3 & #4 (and #2). Relay is turned on by BCM (terminal 82).

I'm tired of looking for now. :)

The thing is the ignition switch appears to be working just fine, it def has power.

Page 38 is referring to the constant on power source that is supplied to the combo meter, this circuit is unaffected as I tested it last night as it should be. I was using the ACC circuit to wire my gauges. This circuit is working just fine. Which further proves that the fuse block does have power.

Page 42 - I missed that! It also looks like Pin 82 also turns on the blower motor, so by that logic if my blower motor is working then that circuit is working. And I believe I remember having to shut off the blower motor last night to save battery while I was running my tests. It also makes sense that I didnt see any airbag lights once the car was running (I started it with both the steering wheel and passenger seat removed).

However if you look at page 42 this relay also controls Fuse 3, which in turn controls pretty much all the other dash components. I know for a fact that I have power on this fuse. But it also appears that this fuse can pull power directly from the BCM? Not sure what the reason for that is, seems kind of backwards that you could have an unfused connection between the BCM and its end components (as seen on page 52)

Thanks for all your help SouthArk, passed right over page 42 :tiphat:

I like the troubleshooting going on here. Good job guys :tup:

Edit - sorry I'm not any help

The signal coming from the BCM (term 82) is for the Ignition Relay coil. The ground for the relay coil is at terminal 7C of the FBJ/B. The power going through the relay contact to the fuses (#2-4) comes from fuse #G in the Fuse & Fusible Link Block.

PG-52 doesn't show any BCM connections (at least in my 2009 edition). It shows all the items that are supplied by fuse #3 in the FBJ/B.

Edit: PG-56 shows items, including Triple Meter, supplied by fuse #4.