Great sticky, so just to confirm if I may. I can purchase a hocky puck and cut a slit in the middle, place this on the side front jack point raise car slightly then use another jack to raise the front via the cross member?

I bought 4 hockey pucks (this is Minnesota - they even sell hockey pucks in the grocery store). I cut a slot in them slightly off center using a radial arm saw deep enough so that it slips over the notched flange but bottoms out on the rail. I bought four neodymium magnets off Amazon ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) drilled four 1/2 inch holes, and glued them in there so that the pucks would stay put. Works great for me (got the magnet idea from this site somewhere). I did this not only so that I could jack it at home, but so that the thing would go on a typical 4-point lift without damage.

I use a hockey puck with a slit cut in one side for the pinch rails. I flip the puck over when I use the garage jack points.

If I'm putting the car on four jack stands, I drive one front tire onto a 2x6 laid flat. This allows me enough clearance to reach the front garage jack point (minor rubbing on the plastic chin spoiler for the first few pumps of the jack handle). I put two jack stands on their lowest height at the front before moving to the rear. I use the differential jack point to easily jack up the rear. I put the jack stands at my working height before moving back to the front to raise those stands to level the car. After a couple of years, I can do this in <10 min if I try. Note that I have an essentially stock sports package. YMMV.

For example, I recently did an oil change for a fellow forum member and ran into several issues with my methods. She has a front lip (EVO-R), and the 2x6 was not sufficient height to clear the lip with my jack when reaching for the front cross member. Also, she has aftermarket exhaust (FI TDX) which restricted access to the differential jack point. I might have been able to reach it by stacking two hockey pucks on the jack, but I only had the one. I had to use the pinch rails to jack up each side individually.

With the rail do you mean the point where the two notches are? If so I agree. But when I looked behind that area ( the rail with two notches ) it was very narrow for the jackstand to rest on.

Stolen from another forum.
I have not seen these lift points used before?

http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-28_13-15-04.jpeg

http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-07_12-13-36.jpeg


http://seology.com/350z/2014-07-07_12-10-08.jpeg

Nice

Did it this way yesterday.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/de2ery9y.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/qadanu6e.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/6e6aramu.jpg

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/3e4ejyha.jpg

I just bought a floor jack and two pairs of jack stands to do my transmission and gear oil.
For the jack stands it says that I need to bend in the little metal tabs? I dont see that done in any of these pictures... Is it safe to leave the tabs alone? because then how will I unbend them to lower back down?

Also, is it safe in general to have the car lifted on 4 jack stands while I do my work?

and for the rear, the floor jack goes directly onto the differential? it wont break or bend anything important?

The tabs you're referring to are just a retaining tab to keep the jack stand shaft permanently in the stand after you initially assemble the 2 pieces together. That tab should only be bent inward enough to prevent the sliding porting of the jack stand from coming back out and falling out of the base. It also prevents you from accidentally over-extending the jack stand to an unsafe point where it would break sideways if you lowered your car onto it with the shaft almost completely out of the stand with no sidewall of the stand touching the shaft for lateral strength.

is your contact point the subframe, and also are the side jacks on the black plastic? I am yet to jack the car, ive been ramping it all this time

Also guys, if you don't have hockey pucks or something of that nature to go on your jack...don't worry. It won't hurt the pinch welds/rails once you start jacking your car up.

You'll notice there is a small nipple in the center, under the engine. That's the spot you're looking for. I always leave my jack there as a fail-safe

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...ps9c6f4b18.jpg

Is that a 370Z? I think those are essentially the same lift points used in a photo earlier in this thread. I used the photo below.

In the attached pic, I marked the nipple zfaulter is referring to with a red circle. As he notes, that's the sweet spot. As for the jacks, it looks like he is also using subframe. I have marked these locations with a blue box in the pic. I have used these when I've worked on other people's cars with aftermarket side skirts that got in the way of my normal pinch rail jack stand location.

It may bend some though. The lift that Austin Z Clinic uses has bent mine just a bit. No big deal :tup:

I have magnetic multi-purpose jack pads. One side is magnetic and the other side has a slit. I use the magnetic side to quickly and precisely attach the pad onto the car/engine frame. The slit side is used for the seam-weld jackpoint, is not magnetic, but it secures it to the jack.

I even use them as magnetic trays to hold nuts, bolts, etc. when working on the car. To store them, I attach them to the jack --- this made me not lose my pads as often. :)