Elect Steering Column Lock Fuse Delete not working
 

So my 2010 is showing all the symptoms of having this issue with the electronic steering column lock. When I tap the box under the steering column with a rubber mallet I can eventually get the car to start. when I did the fuse removal, step-by-step as shown, I still cannot get the car to start. Any suggestions? Thanks in a bit of a bind here.
Not sure if this matters but Nissan said that the recall campaign on my particular car was completed prior to me purchasing it oh, I bought it used from a dealer.
EDIT UPDATE - I do have a D model steering lock that is failing (date of Manuf - 8/2013). Car was produced 1/2010

Thanks everyone!

OP here again...
Maybe I am misunderstanding the viability of the fuse delete.
I am already having issues with the ESCL intermittently failing and the car cycling through the ACC/ON cycles but not turning over. The car will usually start if I tap it with the rubber mallet.
Here's where I am confused, will removing the fuse not solve the problem because my ESCL is already malfunctioning even if I can get the car started?

Once it's started pull the fuse.


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Hey bikeking thanks for responding.
I made my original post in a bit of a hurry and since have done a little research which leaves a big question.
IF I do as you say (granted I get the car started again) and pull the fuse while it's running I should be able to restart without issue???
I have read others say that once it has started failing, I need to replace the unit (or other DIY solutions regarding removing and opening the lock, etc. which I won't attempt).
I haven't seen on here anyone say to remove the fuse while the car is running for units that have started to fail...
Guess the only way to find out is to go try....

Just to clarify - if you pull the steering lock fuse you are unable to start the car? But if it is connected, you can tap the lock and eventually get the car to start?

Pulling the fuse has worked for many people, but there is an alternative solution. Nissan has since come out with this part:

https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-pa...ing-487089n00a

which replaces the steering lock module but does not have the lock. Might be a good solution for you since yours is acting up intermittently and it's pretty inexpensive!

Edit: Just wanted to say bikeking is probably on to something.. It sounds like your steering lock is getting stuck everytime it engages (probably when you shutting the car off).. so pulling it while it is disengaged (car is running) should ensure it's deactivated in the right position.

Also supported by this DIY:
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ilure-fix.html

Which suggests to pull it while in Acc mode once you tap the lock enough to get into Acc mode.

@jayhova
After having the time to read more on here about this issue, it seems that the steps I took were for people who had not had their ESCL fail, yet.
So even though I could get it into ACC mode (but not start), then removing the fuse, I was expecting it to start right away. It did not. However, since it was failing already, maybe in ACC mode it wasn't unlocking yet, so removing the fuse wasn't doing anything.

So tomorrow morning, I am going to get it started and then remove the fuse and see if that works. If not I have an appt at Nissan Friday to look at it.

BTW - I followed those steps exactly on the DIY link! In Acc mode, pulled fuse, car didn't start. Put fuse back in, beat starter, it started.

Gotcha.. If nissan wants to replace it, you might suggest they use the part I posted previously...replacing the actual lock is like $400+ just for the part!

Yeah I am going to look at using that part if that's how it ends up.

THanks for that!

Open hood, remove IPDM (fuse block), start car, remove fuse, kill car, replace IPDM, close hood, done.

If steering wheel locks after doing the above steps, you pulled the wrong fuse.


Edit: You don't have to start the car, just put it in ACC or RUN and verify the ESCL pin has fully retracted. Car won't start until pin has fully retracted, so the car starting verifies pin retraction..

YES :driving:

The engine doesn't need to be running, but the car at least needs to be in accessory mode (start button says ACC) when you pull the fuse.


Then you didn't comprehend what you read. I did the same thing the first time I tried to remove the fuse (i.e. tried it with the car off). Then I went back and read again and realized I didn't do it right. No issues five years later.

Followed the instructions exactly on here and 2 years later still no issues, and this is on a 2009


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UPDATE:
I got the Z running (tapping on the lock mechanism) then removed the ESCL fuse. The car has started up 5 times in a row with no issues so far.
What I learned in my situation:
Even though my car was in ACC mode the first two times I did the fuse pull, and I verified that the lock was in fact disengaged by turning the steering wheel 1/2 turn in each direction, the car still was not starting. I had to continue tapping on the lock mechanism until it started.
Since my unit was already failing, maybe there was something else going on in the electronics of the vehicle. (insight anyone??)
So.... if your unit is already failing, try removing the fuse while the car is actually running, not just in ACC mode and see if that helps.

As the next few days go by I will report back if I have any issues. Thanks for all the input everyone.

Note - I followed all the steps as referenced in other posts on this topic. Pulling fuse while car running was the only option that worked for me!!

Great news! I will keep my fingers crossed for you!

My guess is the locking pin did not retract completely the first couple of times. I bet the pin retracted just enough to allow the steering wheel to turn but not enough to trigger the electronic sensor that permits engine start.

Congrats on sticking with it and getting it figured out eventually :tup:

Thanks for all the support. No problems today at all. Starts right up!
Thanks for the support everyone!