Quote:
Originally Posted by Caravanshaka
(Post 314112)
Pics look good guys! I'm impressed your offering the shaved dimples, thats a good bit of finishing work with body filler to smooth them out. Not sure if I am a fan of the yellow shrouds though, I think I'd go all black if I had a yellow car to avoid the "bumble-bee" comments, lol.
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Thanks Caravan your an precisely we use a special mix of Mar-Glass Short Strand Reinforced Fillers it's a laborious tedious process but I've done full fiberglass custom housings for others. It's really user friendly. Body filler and fiberglass is great it's all about the play time and letting it settle in before grafting your sculpture into a master piece.
Yeah, I agree the bumble bee effect may not appeal to others but some may like it on their Z if they have that stock color. We'll see how it goes for future Z's. So far I have yet to see Chicane Yellow around town. Most popular colors I've seen so far are Brilliant Silver, Platinum Graphite, Magnetic Black
Quote:
Originally Posted by koeppelnissan
(Post 314417)
Looking forward to getting the matte black on a roadster. They should be here in a day or so!
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Marco had shipped them pretty bulletproof. It rained the day they went out. We can't wait it's going to look beautiful on the roadster looking forward to the seeing photo's.
Quote:
Originally Posted by molamann
(Post 314439)
is it possible I drive to your shop and get everything knocked out at once? If yes, how many hours will it take?
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Hi molamann, of course we can knock it out at once it will take anywhere from 6-12 hours. The opening process takes roughly 32 minutes exact. Then the interior work requires intricate attention to detail work and that's where most of the work is spent. This is not including the removing of electrical components from the exterior harness. Anyway, pm me or Marco and we can arrange a date with you. We serve the entire world. It's great you're local because we can meet you personally and you can see how we operate. We operate in house to keep everything organized we keep it small and it's work out the best for us this way for many years. We have padded work benches, and comfortable sitting space, full carpeting so nothing is scratched. Anyway, let me know what options you'd like and we can set a solid date.
Quote:
Originally Posted by G Fo12ce
(Post 314530)
I have a question about the heating process. That is necessary to separate the lens from the rest of the headlight right?
If so have you done any that have paint protection film on the lens already? Did it come out good in terms of the film still being ok?
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Hi G Fo12ce :hello: we heat up temperatures anywhere from 100 to 1,000 degrees farenheit depending on the surrounding temperature it differs with every headlight by size, shape, and dimension.
In regards to paint protection film on the lens? Are you referring to M.I.S clear shield to prevent stone chips or the 3M material that protects the lens casing? If so, I've actually done this before on my car
MIS Clear Bra with the material still on my headlights and they held up pretty good but I was using . Every material reacts differently due to the different thickness' offered. My headlights are protecting with M.I.S shield same type of material clear bra 3M uses to protect bumpers which I also have done on my widebody, fenders, and hood area. I'm sure we can work with it. We have different ways of removing the lens without baking and softening the oem glue. If possible do you know how many millimeters the film is on your headlight protection.
My thickness on my headlights are:
Approximate Applied Thickness: 0.006 inch (0.15 mm) Film
0.002 inch (0.05 mm) Adhesive
0.008 inch (0.20 mm) = Total thickness
This is normally the standard type they use to protect headlights from stone chips and spider webbing on the windshield glass but who knows you may have something more bullet proof :). It's pretty tough stuff. Anything thicker is harder to apply. PM me so I can give you further details on the process to give you a full break down.
