Need help for LED turn signals
 

Hey everyone,

I need a definitive answer on how many resistors need to be used if changing both front turn signals and both rear turn signals to LED to be able to prevent hyper-blinking or "hyper-flash" as it's called. I've done my best to read through multiple other threads on here, as well as the service manual and other guides on sites such as vleds.com.

The only thing I've figured out is they need to be installed in parallel to the bulb wiring and for the front that means the two colored wires and leaving the black one alone, for the rear it's simply the two wires going to the bulb.

I just keep seeing some saying you need one resistor for each side (so 2 total resistors) if doing all 4 bulbs and others saying you need one for each bulb (so 4 total resistors). Lastly, do you need 3 ohm or 6 ohm resistors?

Thanks for the advice everyone!

Another option?
 

Also, if I were to get can-bus compatible LED bulbs w/ built in load resistors, would that work as well instead of getting separate resistors? If so does anyone have an idea of where to find them? For our bulb numbers for the turn signals, I have not seen them available on superbrightleds.com.

Thanks again guys.

Does anyone have any advice on this?? :icon14:

I just did this last weekend. I purchased my lights from iJDMTOY.com part #20-009. Here is a photo of the kit. I bought a kit for the rear lights but it will not work without cutting and splicing the factor bulb socket wires and the decoder box socket wires. Works perfect for the front. Just plug and play.

Will work for the rear if your willing to splice and install a pigtail so the decoder box can mount in the trunk space. There is not enough clearance where the tail lights mount.

I used 3M double sided automotive tape and a wire tie to affix the decoder box for the front lights under the fender behind the wheel well plastic liner.

You will need a resistor for each lamp.

The resistance of an LED lamp is high enough that the BCM thinks it is an open circuit (burnt out bulb). A resistor is placed in parallel with the lamp to bring the total resistance down to what the BCM wants to see. The resistor will produce quite a bit of heat, so make sure it is mounted away from things that will melt easily.

So essentially for the rear it has to be lengthened so the box can reach the trunk compartment where you can then mount the decoder box? That's not too bad. Do the boxes get hot like regular resistors? And do the connectors that come with the decoder box fit okay into our factory sockets for the front and rear turn signals?

Also, is it more recommended to use decoder boxes or resistors to prevent LED hyper flash for our cars?