Nissan 370Z Forum - Door handle/actuator issue

Nissan 370Z Forum (http://www.the370z.com/)

- Exterior & Interior (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/)

- - Door handle/actuator issue (http://www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/112986-door-handle-actuator-issue.html)

Has anyone removed the inner panel???

Has anyone ever actually taken the panel off and replaced the actual actuator before?

I've been sent the dynamat DIY link and that didn't help. I've posted and created a new thread before and go nowhere. lol

I'm on my 4th set of actuators that were always fixed and under warranty until the warranty ran out. Now i'm **** outta luck and need to figure it out myself, but when the interior door panel comes off, there's an inner panel that i can't seem to figure out how to get off. I've taken off the bolts, however there's 2 of these still connecting the panel and i'm not sure what they are or how to remove them. I don't want to drill them out because i cant tell what they are connected to on the other side.

any help would be awesome!!!!!

Both door locks work very randomly. Sometimes i have to hold the unlock button down on the keyfob to roll the window down to manually unlock and get in the car.

revisiting this thread

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirnixalot (Post 4015802)

I semi solved it. It’s the door lock mechanism inside the latch. It moves too far in one direction and does not allow the door handle mechanism to engage with the latch cam. Until the new to me door latch arrives I have unplugged the connector that would trigger the door lock mechanism and disconnected the drivers side manual lock cable.

How did I even get to this point you ask, since my door was closed. I cannot take a picture with the kind of accuracy required.

If you find yourself in this predicament, roll the window down, pry the inside window seal out, position your brightest flashlight pointing down the window opening at the B pillar.

You will make out a door latch mechanism halfway down and you will see a lever that a cable is attached to. I had to push on this with a welding rod aka coat hanger while opening the door with either inside or outside handle.

I found the tension of me pushing on the cable/latch connection point with the welding rod while providing counter tension with the door handle opened the door.

This did not work 100% of the time but it was successful enough for me to avoid taking my plasma cutter to the door. I apologize if none of that makes sense but I guarantee it will when your experience it.

revisiting this thread....anyone have input!?!?

What side are you doing? I've done both and can help you.

I just did my driver side door lock actuator a couple of weeks ago.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dreadnaught (Post 4022643)

What side are you doing? I've done both and can help you.

I just did my driver side door lock actuator a couple of weeks ago.

I need to do both. Lol…help with whatever you’re willing to help with…please, I’ve been trying to figure this out for waaaaaaay too long

Also, based on the pics I posted in my previous post…do you have an indication on WTH those are?

I "get" to do my drivers side actuator - I have one from Ebay for $80 here ready to roll.

I have removed door panel previously for sound deadening -

Question: DO we "have" to remove the inner door panel/metal thing? I saw in another thread that the actuator can be removed by "positioning the window at the right place" ? <--- Is this accurate?

Do we have a FSM that covers the fix?

Please advise! Mine makes an extremely loud BUZZZZZZZZ when locking... it's embarrassing/stupid.

Do we have to remove the glass as shown in this 350z how to?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vA4fwFZGQSY