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PM Sent for hole kit. :driving:

I wanted to bring up an important issue that I was recently made aware of. Like the comment I made in this thread about how you need to insure and properly package your return items, I want to keep all communication open about anything that pops up and I need to make you all aware of.

Recently I sold a throttle body set to a customer in Australia. After installation the customer was throwing two CEL's. A P0123 and P0233. Both are throttle body TPS sensor codes. After the customer troubleshot a few things and did the throttle body reset procedure a few times, it was determined that the TPS sensor was bad on the passenger-side throttle body. All the customer did was remove the four screws holding the black TPS housing to the throttle body and swap his OEM TPS sensor that clearly had been working. I've been told by a few people now these electronic TPS sensors are very sensitive to vibration and bouncing around. With shipping these throttle bodies from customers to me, to the porter, back to a new customer it's possible these will go bad. If by chance you ever get one of my ported throttle bodies that is throwing check engine lights with these codes or possibly any other TPS sensor code, it is okay to remove the four screws on the TPS sensor housing and just swap the covers.

Below is a pic of what I'm talking about. As you can see it's about as easy as changing a light bulb. I say about as easy because the screws have an antitheft torque screw. In removing the cover below from a broken housing I got back, (posted before) all I used was a pair of needle nose pliers. The screws are not that tight nor difficult to remove.

Any questions please feel free to ask.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psnbfqjbhs.jpg



Fyi, here is the TB reset procedure.

How to reset your ECU and perform the Throttle Pedal Release and Idle Air Volume Learning procedures on an Infiniti G35 and the Nissan 350Z.

Before attempting any of the following procedures, it is advisable that you read through the instructions thoroughly and familiarize yourself with them.

A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
**a quick reset can be accomplished by disconnecting the negative battery terminal, and depressing the brake a few times.

ECU Resetting Procedures

Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.

Operations Procedures

1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure

1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures

1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)

It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that the accelerator pedal is fully released, then turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

Scott
Hope you don't mind, I added your write up to the DIY Thread and put the link you your thread in there. Also gave you props for the write up. Very useful stuff. :bowrofl:

Thanks bud!

yeah no prob, thank you

For everyone struggling to get their idle air relearn to take with the "pedal dance" method, there is hope. After cleaning my TB's I started getting the high idle and code P0507.

I tried for about a week to get my idle to relearn. Then I found this http://www.370zcoupe.com/TSB/1TN39.PDF. I followed the steps disconnected my MAF and did the "pedal dance". Still did not work. Tried it one time again and shut it down for the night.

Then the next day while I was sitting at a light waiting for my check engine light to turn on. I noticed...H@LY $Hit, my car is idling at 600 rpm! It finally had worked!

TRUST ME. IT CAN BE DONE!

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I have the z1 upper intake manifold already. Will your ported tb's bolt right up and are they both bored out to 63mm? Also, how would I go about purchasing your tb's?

I'll pm you

Okay guys just posting my results from my tune using the ported tb's lower and upper. Don't worry about the green line that is the nitrous. Now prior to these modifications it was a different stock motor and the only extra modifications motor wise was just stillen grounding kit, nst ud and alternator pulley.

The prior modifications were FI LTH, FI CBE, Stillen 3gs, Stillen UD Pulley. It was a long time ago but I want to say I netted 317 whp.

That NOS tunes insane!

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