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My draw to the Z1 kit was that it removes the clutch hydraulic system from the transmission housing entirely. So if I ever have any problems with it, no dropping the transmission again. I really don't think you can go wrong with either kit except for the ZSpeed CSC paired with a Spec clutch or the Z1 kit with certain turbo piping. And just to be clear, the adjustment is incredibly easy. It is easily accessible and convenient if you already have the car in the air for other maintenance. It's literally one bolt, one lock nut, and some washers. Two other nuts get loosened to turn the rear threaded rod. You can easily see it in this photo. The bolt attaches the cylinder to the black support bracket that comes with the kit. http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbfa3c754.jpg |
FWIW, I have an update. My cylinder just recently failed; it failed towards the back at the plastic threads where the smaller part of the cylinder meets the larger part of the cylinder. I paid $60 for Z1 to send me a new one, and then I sent the failed one back to them for a refund. The new one was ever so slightly different in design and length, but I was able to get it pre-adjusted exactly as the old one and required no additional adjustment once installed and bled. Minus the time spent on some additional complications completely unrelated to the cylinder failure and replacement, I spent maybe 20 minutes removing the old cylinder and adjusting and installing the new one.
This is precisely the reason I chose the Z1 kit - no dropping the transmission required (anymore). Car drives amazing once again :driving: |
Hey guys, it's been almost 3 years since we've updated on this.
Could anyone please start telling us how it's been going with your choices? Any problems? Thanks! |
My Z1 kit is still working. I've had to replace several parts over the years but nothing difficult or expensive. I plan to get the ZSpeed CMAK next time I drop the transmission for clutch replacement.
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Also problems? probable causes? Would be very helpful. Thanks! |
I have the ZSpeed CMAK. Solid as a rock for 5,000 miles since the install...
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I plan to switch to the ZSpeed CMAK because it does not require any adjustments, and the cylinder itself appears to be more sturdy than the Z1 slave cylinder. |
The Z1 kit is poorly engineered in my opinion. I've installed many Zspeed CSC's and a few Zspeed CMAK kits. the ZSpeed kit is far better engineered. I still prefer their Tilton CSC to keep things simple, but for those looking to convert to a pivot system the Zspeed would be the way to go.
OSGiken makes a kit using some JDM and USDM Nissan parts to be used with their twin disk clutch kits but i haven't had a chance to install one of those kits so can't comment on it, I'm sure it's high quality as OSGiken has never failed to impress. |
good information here. Subscribed. Trying to figure out my direction once my CSC fails
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I was lucky enough to win a free Z1 Clutch, unsprung hub and lightweight flywheel at the Z Nationals event this year. When I called Z1 to claim the parts I decided to throw down the cash for the CSC elimination kit. It just didn't make sense to not do it. Once I have the cash to purchase an upgraded master cylinder, Z1 transmission mount and Mtec shifter springs, I will install everything all at once.
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Bump. My clutch pedal has no pressure looking at my options and leaning toward the ZSpeed CMAK w/ Southbend stage 2 17lbs flywheel and quiet disk. Any opinions?
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Zspeed CMAK or even their Internal CSC upgrade is a solid choice. can't go wrong. Have you considered the SpecialtyZ clutch kit that includes an upgraded CSC?
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Been a while since I've been on here. So I'm going to assume my CSC is on it's way out.
Background Info: In 04/2021, I was driving to work and happen to notice a different clutch pedal feel. It didn't sink to the bottom, but felt lighter, and after parking at the office, I did notice the clutch fluid reservoir was only half-full, when I've never had to top it off in the 3 years of ownership at the time. No noticeable fluid leaks underneath the car, nor inside the cabin, so I'm thinking it is leaking within the tranny housing. To date, I have not fixed due to many reasons, but to drive it once every 2 weeks to get the oil running and have to top off the clutch fluid once a month. I am really leaning towards keeping the car for long-term and thus leaning towards replacing the CSC and MC. I have done plenty of research and spent countless hours viewing through the threads of this site. Not sure if some of the veteran members are still around or moved on, but looking to get some insight and opinions. 1. I am hearing and reading more good things about ZSpeed and some bad things about Z1. I've also read that some members originally went with Z1 and will be switching over the ZSpeed. For those that have gone either route, what are your thoughts? 2. I have also read that some members only replace the CSC and leave the OEM clutch. I get the logic/reasoning of replacing the clutch while you have everything out, but is this possible/reliable leaving the OEM clutch? My clutch has plenty of life left and I don't track her at all (2013 Z with only 41K miles). 3. I am most likely doing this myself, but just in case, does anyone know of or have experience with any shops in the Tampa, FL area? There is 1 notorious shop, but have heard HORROR stories about them. |
Get the Zspeed CMAK and a new master cylinder. Too many complaints on the Z1 kit. Zspeed was sold to SOHO. So you will be dealing with them.
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I was 99% set on ZSpeed, but your input put me at 100%, and ironically, it's cheaper than Z1's kit. Looks like ZSpeed is currently on backorder through 09.2022, which will give me plenty of time to study and make this hopefully a smooth process. I wasn't sure if it was Z1 or ZSpeed, but I read that one (or both) are not compatible with OEM/different brand clutches? The OEM clutch has alot of life left and I just can't justify replacing the clutch (i.e. if it ain't broke, don't fix it), and was wondering if it would give me any problems keeping/running the OEM clutch? |
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I can't tell you about if it will work with an OEM clutch or not. But from reading, the only difference is in the throw out bearing. Joe had different throw bearings for different clutches. |
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I need to reach out to Joe. Wanted to get unbias insighst before actually reaching out to him, and thanks for your help as always :rofl2: |
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