coolant change.
 

The only search on the topic said read manual. I bought 100% Prestone long life for my Z. I plan on mixing 50/50 here in Florida. the manual said to use drain plug from radiator to do easy flush. then do you flush it with water until clear and run engine till thermostat opens. I was told you will never get all the old fluid out. Any suggestions other than the block plugs. THANKS. I HAVE 64K MILES ON GREEN STUFF. HELLO ANYBODY

I usually flush with distilled water 3 times. I wait till the engine comes to operating temp, and I run the heater on full blast. Shut the car off, drain the water, refill and repeat. That seems to get most of the old coolant out.

Yes distilled water is the way to go. :iagree:

Make sure you bleed the system and get all the air out.

or vacuum bleed/fill the system if you have access to the gear

You might also consider dropping your ratio to 25% since you live down south. Your Z will run cooler in the summer time with more water.

A triple rinse will get rid of all* the old coolant. De-ionized water will work just as well as distilled and is cheaper.

*OK, not quite all but as good as you're going to get.

Just curious whats the need for being so thorough with removal of the old coolant, 3 flushes, vacuum pump, etc. Sounds just a tad excessive.

I was under the impression all we needed was a drain and fill.

Back when there wasn't much difference from one type of antifreeze and another, flushing was just to get rid of any solids that may have accumulated. Nowadays, coolants can be incompatible and you need to get rid of the old stuff. A triple rinse is a bit much but DI water is pretty cheap. One good flush would probably work well (depending on how much gets trapped in the system after draining); two should get rid of all of the old coolant; the third is just for good measure.
If you are using the same type of coolant, one flush to get rid of solids is all that is needed (and that may not be necessary).

The vacuum pump is to remove air from the system - you can (usually) bleed the system without one but it makes things a little easier.

I'm thinking I may not use coolant at all on my next change and just running distilled water and water wetter. I did this on my sport bikes because of the hot texas summers and mild winters. Thoughts on yea or ney on this?

Nay. Coolant does more than just get rid of heat. It has corrosion inhibitors that are necessary for the metals in modern engines. If you are racing the car, there might be some advantages to water + wetting agent; for a DD, use the proper coolant.

Agree, I see no need to get crazy with it. Just make sure you do it every 30,000 miles.

Thanks for all the replies. I thought the question was over abused since no one answered quickly. I am flushing twice since the coolant is different with distilled water and going to run 80/20. THANKS AGAIN-- HAPPY NEW YR.

Hmmm.....i was advised to use vinegar in order to break down all of the accumulated sediments in the cooling system, but this was for my jew-mobile, its old. And then flush n stuff.

yes. that should work. the long life coolant should last 30k miles easily and most of the coolant in the market is compatible.

http://i593.photobucket.com/albums/t...D/IMG00114.jpg

?

WHERE IS THE STUPID COOLANT DRAIN PLUG. I FOUND A HOSE THAT TURNS FOREVER ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. NISSAN MANUAL SHOWS THE PLUG ON DRIVER SIDE? I HAVE A ZSPEED UNDERSHIELD. PLEASE HELP!!!
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/2013/CO.pdf

The drain plug is on the lefts side if you were looking at the front of the car... so yes the passenger side. That little piece of silicone hose is there just to guide the coolant downward so it doesn't get all over the place. You can pull the hose off to get a better view of the plug

Drain plug is right under that silicone piece of tubing, left side or passenger side of the radiator. Turning the tubing doesn't loosen the plug. You need to get a large phillips head screw driver up in there to unscrew it.

Anyone know what the ID (inner diameter) of this hose is? Mine appears to have fell off at some point, but think it's a good idea to get one on there before doing the drain/fill.

According to page CO-10 of the FSM (see link in post above), it's 15-16 mm ID and 145 mm long.