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Synolimit does boring and polishing of intake manifold.
Not really sure of the size of the Z1 TB but it looks like they just made the butterfly bigger. |
The maxima throttle bodies will only be beneficial on a custom intake like the GTM built one for 1slow370.
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what are your thoughts on increasing the bore and shorting the stroke? I'll have a spare motor soon.
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I want a mean NA motor. Just toying with the idea, I know that alot of exotic cars make big power with larger bore and shorten strokes without the aid of forced induction.Is it feasible with out motors?
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Look at our bore/stroke, do you really need to go more oversquare? Just get stronger lighter internals and better oiling . Then change everything else
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does anyone know what the factory cylinder liner thickness is?
also has anyone fitted a vq40de 92mm crank? |
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With Darton MID sleeves, you can get to 96-100mm bore and VQ40 crank will give you 4334cc's @ 100mm bore VQ40 crank is in the Valkyrie Z34 on OEM bore with HR head conversion. All this is in various previous threads. |
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One of the later threads is here http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...a-raceway.html Best source of information is Clark Steppler at JWT who is an absolute mine of good information. You will drop $20K into a 500hp (at the crank) VQ build though and it will be a race-spec engine that won't be very driveable as a street or daily vehicle and will probably require a stand-alone ECU. There are a couple of other build threads on hi-HP NA builds (Megan370Z is one and 1Slow370Z is another), all chock full of good info. Your other source is Sasha Anis in Canada . www.onpointdyno.com for details |
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Or let's start a funding website to dump money into a reputable company to learn what makes the impossible possible. Decoding the mystery into the vvel And maybe tuners could unlock respectable gains out of a NA build. Bigger displacement like gains or probably just need to stop imagining such non-sense.
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He also had a custom intake manifold
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He wanted to be different. Noone else offers better than his one off. I would do if i had the bank roll to spend countless amounts of money. His car did make more power than any N/A Z in the world and a set-up that noone has dared to try and he succeeded.
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Not to mention more than a few of those hp came from switching to a dry sump. That alone will rape your wallet.
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That and you're not dragging the crank through the oil.
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Yea but he stated the cam doesn't really start producing until after 8,000 rpms. Also he wasn't done with building the car up. Plus this is the first of it's kind. I'm sure if more companies follow his set-up they could fine tune for more horsepower. Member when the first TT KIT. Came out, you were lucky to break 500whp.
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Another note if he wanted 600 or 700 horsepower he definitely had the money for a TT KIT.
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I'm totally aware of the cost needed to do something like I mentioned lol. I'm not trying to argue that. I need to have something done to my lower plenum and TB because I could benefit from having 3 inch charge pipes.
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He also had velocity stack in the 3 inch charge pipes, i wonder if that gave any benefit in the power band.
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The oil level when off doesn't go high enough to touch the crank so when on it surely doesn't.
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To clarify, the crank is not submerged in the oil. There are losses due to oil splashing around into the rotating assembly.
One quick link - Technical Description - Dry Sump Systems |
The loss is called windage. You got oil whipping around with the crank as it is spinning. The oil puts a drag on the crank. When you eliminate the oil whipping. You pick up hp. Couple of ways you can do it. Use a deep sump oil pan, windage tray, deep sump oil pan with a windage tray, or a dry sump. Listed from the least to the most efficient.
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I always wondered how you picked up horsepower from a dry sump
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I am new here and don't have a Z yet. I am coming from the MR2 world. I have read a good bit of this thread though. I see people saying that there are limitations to what can be done N/A and still be streetable. On the MR2 board I am on, there is an interesting N/A build. There is an N/A Toyota 2GR being built for big power. The 2GR is Toyotas 3.5 liter V6. In fwd configurations it is rated at around 270hp. In rwd configurations (Lexus), it is rated at 306hp. The rwd engines do receive direct injection as well as some other mods. The owner is using a fwd engine to start with. Originally the owner of the engine was shooting for 400 hp at the crank. As he got into the build and after discussing with his builder, he started thinking 500hp/crank might be possible and streetable. On his engine he bored it to 3.6 liters. They have also tried different intake manifold set ups. THIS, seems to be a bottle neck for the 2GR as well as exhaust manifolds. So far they are seeing big gains on the top end with some of their intake manifold configurations. I do have to say that this engine seems to be choked off pretty badly from the factory. When dropped in a 2nd gen MR2 with custom headers, exhaust and intake system (stock intake manifold), they put out an additional 40-50 hp on the stock ecu. I will say that the 2GR heads are known to flow really well.
My point is, on paper, the VQ engines seem to be pretty close to Toyota's 2GR. If big N/A power can be made with the 2GR why not the VQ. the VQ37 already has more displacement to start with as well as a lot of R&D work. The Toyota engine isn't really know as a "performance" engine. I don't know much about these Nissan engines beyond the basics but if they really pick up the gains in power that I read about with typical bolt on mods and a tune, that tells me they are pretty choked off from the factory. Probably to keep them quiet. The Toyota engine is QUITE loud when uncorked. If decent gains can be made with bolt ons and a tune, it would seem like these engines like to make power they just need help. If the heads flow well, it shouldn't be too hard. Has anyone experimented with individual throttle bodies on a VQ engine. From what I have seen on other modern engines, ITBs really wake up the top end. 1 difference that I am aware of is that Zs are new cars and MR2s are OLD! Not too many people will to experiment with new cars. I get it. Just my 2 thoughts. If all goes right over the next year, I'll have my own lil Z. I can't wait. |
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Also creating a manifold takes alot of R&D and hoping people are willing to purchases them is a huge risk. There is one company now who is attempting to make a manifold, but who knows how long until it goes into production. Take a look at World record N/A build by 1slow370z, As far as i know he is the only one in the world who attempted this build and made really good power, but sold the car before he unlock the full potential everything he did to the car. Far as ITB's correct me anyone if i'm wrong, Also takes a tremdous amount of time,labor, and again money as the Z's throttle is drive by wire and to run itb's you would need to switch over to pull type throttle bodies and run a standlone to get the car up and running. I tried winning the 500 million dollar powerball so i could build and badass streetable high revving N/A Z but it didn't quite workout as i planned. Hope this helps you out. |
Lol, tell me about it. If i had won id have a Radical 3.2 V8 in my MR2. I would imagine ITBs could be throttle by wire. There ARE new factory cars running them. I would think a lot of intake manifold r&d could be done on a computer. Some of the V6 swapped MR2 guys built their own manifolds. I believe they were for boosted engines though. They used something like a section of 3 or 4 in diameter aluminum pipe for the plenum the smaller pipe for runners. I think they got flanges made by outside shops. The ones that i saw made power over stock but like i said they were boostex engines. Where there is a will (and big cash) there is a way.
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I agree sir, I just wish I had the funds to make this happen. Instead I have to wait years to make this happen
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