No the metal cap on the coolant neck engine must be cold

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I was thinking head gasket too, but I figured it would just climb up and stay up without, say, the heater on full blast. Could temps swing like that with a failing gasket?

OP, I'd also check your oil to see if there's any evidence of coolant in it (e.g., looks milky and/or separated).

Or find someone on local forums/facebook who has a compression tester. They're like $30 from Harbor Freight.

Checked cap on coolant, it was not at the lip or bubbling out, checked oil as well and it does not appear milky at all.

how far down was it, it should be at the inside lip, you may have an air pocket if it was low.

I've definitely got an air pocket then because it is extremely low. My overflow tank is full though. Maybe that bars stop leak wasn't the best option?

Looking at 1slow370's fees you're racking up quite the tab! :D

^yes he is

Also time to bleed, go get one of these from a pepboys or something http://www.summitracing.com/parts/li...FYdffgod4UQAqQ

Attach it where the metal cap goes and fill er up to the top of the taper part. Then crack the bleed plug on the top of your csf radiator and hope it doesn't break/strip and close it once coolant starts coming out. Then start the car and turn the heater on and keep it full to the top of the taper part. let it come up to temp so the thermostat opens and then shut it off and let it cool down. Repeat this process 2 more times then shove the stick in the funnel, remove and dump it into the coolant jug and put the factory cap on. Check it again in a few days to see if it is still going down. If you chose to put in more stop leak while doing this add it first before filling the system. If the level continues to go down and no leaks can be located you need to get the head gaskets changed.

The vast majority of additives are, at best, the equivalent of duct tape ... cheap duct tape ... maybe more like Scotch tape. More often than not, they end up making the situation worse. When they do any good at all, they merely mask the primary problem, which often leads to bigger problems down the road. If it's a DD, use only what's recommended in the Owner's Manual.

They work great if you put them in right before you sell it and some sucker buys it without checking the tank for sediment and the fluid for proper color! Ask how I know :shakes head:

HAHA I remember back when cadillac and some GM models had problems with radiators sealing and FWIW there is a GM part number for a tube of BARS leaks pellets.

Edit: but if you can find the leak fix it, a radiator shop should be able to weld a leak on your csf radiator if it isn't in the midlle of the thing.

Use a couple of eggs. Problem fixed on leaks.

I greatly appreciate the amount of help from you guys, especially 1slow370. As if admiring your build was not enough, now I expect a bill from your services. Better get the paypal ready. :rofl2:

Get it bleed and figure out if the gasket is bad first, then you can pay me if there is anything left of your life savings after changing it lol