Opinions on Clutch flush/bleeding
 

Tomorrow i will be using this item

Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit

So basically i will attach this to the bleed fitting on the transmission housing, which is the CSC bleeder (obviously opeing the bleeder). It creates a vaccum, and i will be holding a pressure between 10-15 psi using motul rbf600 to top off the reservoir until brand new fluid comes out.

Has anyone used this set up? I used brake bleeders that attach to the master cylinder, but this will be the first time using this device, none the less on a clutch hydraulic system.

Is there anything i should know etc. Otherwise i believe this should work flawlessly as long as i keep the reservoir full.

I was under the impression you did not want to use any bleeder device when bleeding the clutch.

The FSM states not to use any vacuum assist or any type of power bleeder. I've bled my hydraulic system at least 10 times in the past 2 years the way Zspeed recommends, and I've never had issues. Not sure why some people have problems with this.

I've bled my clutch many times using a vacuum bleeder much bigger than the one the OP linked. Due to the small size of the canister, I doubt you'll generate much suction from it. Combined with the small size of the bleed nipple itself, I think it'll be difficult to bleed the CSC.

Or instead of spending $25 dollars on a pump, just open the bleeder valve, gravity bleed, and then do the pumps on the pedal and you're done.

Well, from what i researched earlier, theres been a few people who used a Mityvac version of my device on their 370z, 350z, g37, and g35.

Honestly, I'm tired of having to get/find a second person. Therefore i bought a way I could bleed it myself, and from what I hear, is faster than pumping anyways. With the little canister, i'll just close the bleeder valve, empty the the canister into a bottle, top off the reservoir and repeat. Should take less than 5 mins.

You can bleed the clutch fluid by yourself. The steps are a little different than bleeding brakes where you do need another person to push the pedal while you open the bleeder valve. But sounds like you are set on vacuum pump. Like I mentioned before, the Nissan FSM says not to use one.

You are right, the FSM does state that the only reason they do not recommend vaccum assist tools is because it will not take all the air out of the system. If that indeed the case, i will pump the clutch slowly 5 times and hold down, grab the hydraulic jacks handle, put it on the clutch pedal, then move the seat forward against the other side of the handle, and then see if air comes out and repeat if necessary.

I don't do all that. What I do is open the bleeder valve, pump the clutch pedal down a few times, keep an eye on the reservoir and don't let it go all the way empty. About every 6 pumps, I re-fill the reservoir. After about 15 or so pumps, I then let it gravity bleed for about five minutes. Just leave the bleeder valve slightly open, no pumping the pedal, once again keep an eye on the reservoir and refill when needed. After about 5minutes of gravity bleeding I pump the pedal a couple more times, close the valve, and everything is good to go.

Well, the little vaccuum booster helps out a lot. The only problem it fills the canister way too fast, so i did it three times and the fluid was light yellow coming out, then I did the pumps until the whole motul 500ml bottle was gone. My fluid looks good but I only used one bottle? I bought two? Is that ok for now?

Never knew changing clutch fluid changes the clutch feel drastically. The clutch grabs faster and harder than before. The pedal feels a little stiffer and the engagement is like a brand new clutch. Crazy.