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Check to make sure the two male an fittings are tight where they go into the aluminum sandwhich plate as well. They are aluminum so dont reef on them but they should be tight. Worse case you would need the two washer seals under those fittings and maybe the face seal under the samich plate.
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I hate those style of fittings, they are notorious for leaking.
Personally , I would wash her down, brake kleen the general area you think the leak is coming from, wipe it down and fire her up while she's on the hoist/ramps and watch close. |
Before buying any parts, I'd try snugging everything up. As mentioned above there is the pipe nipple that holds the adapter plate on. The fittings may need to be loosened, cleaned, and properly tightened. They're pickier than most people realize, especially on the initial install. If over-tightened, the ferrule will not seal properly. Make sure everything is tightened to spec - too tight can be as bad as too loose. If that doesn't fix the leak, then start worrying about replacing parts.
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Edit: I misidentified the connectors, so the following doesn't apply in this case. See 1slow370's comment below. Sorry about that. The main reason compression tubing fittings fail is because of improper installation - usually over-tightening. A close second is over-tightening during reassembly. Follow the manufacturer's procedure for installing the fittings (usually hand-tight plus 1/8 to 1/2 turn depending on size) and you will have very few leaks. When re-assembling, just snug the nut up - it doesn't have to be as tight as many people think. |
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oh and if the leak is coming from the fittings themselves that rarely happens, but it could be that the o-rings in the swivel fittings are worn out. usually doesn't happen but it it can and you would have to replace the leaking fitting. This probably isn't the case but it COULD happen.
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Needing to bring this back up again. My car recently had it's 90 000 kilometer service (or 56k miles). The dealership said they found oil on a spark plug while replacing it as part of the service. They advised that the valve cover gasket needs to be replaced, however, the parts are only set to arrive 3rd week in December. I wanted to know if the vehicle is safe to be driven around until the parts arrive. Thanks:tiphat:
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Way too much oil as mentioned. Might start with Centre threaded tube that holds sandwich plate onto engine and if it's tight then look into getting a new seal for the plate. If you clean off the oil all around filter and plate you might be able to see where it's leaking with engine running. As you know it should be fixed soon before a failure. Good luck and please post your finding so as to help others. Good luck.
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Will do, I drove it to work this morning so I'll check for any oil on the ground later. Can't comment on low oil level yet as an oil change was done 2 days ago. However, I did get a faint burning smell which did not last too long, which I'm assuming may be a small bit of oil burning off on the manifold after the engine warmed up. Yesterday afternoon, oil temp gauge reached 95 degrees Celsius (203 Fahrenheit) while in traffic, was not driving hard at all.
Off topic, I also noticed that a clicking sound was coming from the rear when I; 1. Put the car into Drive from Neutral, Park, Reverse 2. Put the car into Reverse from Neutral, Park, Drive 3. Just before the vehicle comes to a complete stop 4. Intermittent on take-off Thankfully, I was able to find a service bulletin regarding this, was for the 350Z, but still rectified the issue with my car. Link to TSB below http://s000.tinyupload.com/?file_id=...38939742024398 |
there are these paper looking O ring seals that supposed to come with those male adapters or compression steel braded hose connectors, it looks as they r missing in the pic, that's why ur leaking oil, no matter how much you tighten they will always leak.
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Parts have not arrived as yet, but I will let the dealership know when I go there again. |
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