Without getting to much into this whole debate...LS Swap, would cost less then 10 and would be 500+ NA...just sayin'.:stirthepot: AND someone is just about done doing it, with a kit, by the sounds of it.

Lol my buddy keeps trying to get me to do a ls swap. But this motor only cost me 1600 and had 26k miles on it. If i wanted a v-8 i would of bought a car with an v-8. Keeping the Zed the way it suppose to be.

Picked up the motor today. Now to start saving

Now the fun and exploded credit card starts. :rofl2:

Im going to take my time. Save where i can lucky i have an mechanic so that will cut alot of cost

Elmo whats with the new engine? Did you blow the previous one?

No, i got a good deal on it. Do i went ahead and bought it.

What exactly are your build plans? I guess you could try higher CR pistons, but it will have to drink race gas or use WI.

Im going to look into options, i still want to keep the car streetable. I want to do the heads before anything, and if the stock block blows up i can just replace it. If the stock block holds up for a period of time, ill just send the block of to get it built for high revs.

I just don't want to start buying parts. Ill do my research before i start unloading the bank account

Well it looks like you're serious about this...

You're going to have to replace all the internals, that's a given. So get together with your mechanic buddy and start figuring out what you can afford. Off the top of my head you will need:

High compression pistons
Lightweight/knife edged crank / possibly more stroke if you can't get enough volume via boring
Custom grind camshafts with upgraded valvetrain
Forged rods
Fuel system & Injectors
Boring the cylinders / sleeves
Custom Intake or ITB's

This is actually a really neat project and I hope you go through with it. :cool:

GOOD LUCK!

My A/T Z hit speed limiter @ around 6900/156 in 5th (1:1) showed a bit more power than 4th (1.41:1) ,but dyno guy backed off throttle when he seen shift light flash at 7200.
i gotta remove limiter and do me a Glory-Pull,probably hit 175 in 1:1

Yeah finding the parts is the hard part. The bottom end is going to be stock. Im going to do heads, jun cam, valve train upgrade, ati damper, and nismo oil pump ( unless something better is available). Then see where i can go from there. From what I've seen from one a fellow on n here and the car is still running, the motor can handle up to 8,300 rpms before the springs run out and 8500 rpms until our block goes to shed. Longevity ahhh who knows. But i have a spare block.

Elmo, finding parts is easy ...........

Talk to JWT
1. Crank from Bryant Racing (OEM stroke)
2. GA rods and pistons from JWT (12:1)
3. JUN cams and OEM VVEL, or GA HR head conversion
4. ATI damper, or you can use the Ross Performance from down under
5. Wet sump with external pressure stage - requires some plumbing inside the sump and delete OEM oil pump
OR
Daily Engineering Dry-Sump
OR
Omega Tech dry-sump (I'm the guinea pig)
OR NISMO oil pump BUT Doran Racing will tell you it is not a perfect solution but "should" be OK for street/"fast road" engine
6. You cannot go wrong with valve train from Kyle at ImportPartsPro OR JWT retainer/spring package
7. ITB/induction - I hope to have HR-head x-over mani in my hands this month - but this probably will not suit VHR heads
8. Beware OEM crank as Doran will tell you that they crack after a few meetings (so figure ~10 hours race running) - it might be OK for a fast streeter - depends on time spent at big revs

Awesome, im at work at the moment, but I'll be giving b these guys a call sometime this week to start putting a game plan together. I'm not doing a Hr head swap, you know anything about an valvetrain upgrade for vvel heads? What's the omega dry sump run you?

Omega Tech dry-sump:

Balancer with crank trigger wheel, trigger sensor and mount for ignition (if you don't use the OEM crank trigger setup), oil pump drive adaptor / pulley, 4 stage oil pump with 38T pulley and shields and bracket and the billet sump was quoted (list) at AU$5943.30 including 10% GST. The Aussie-$ is currently worth about 72 cents US, so figure on $4300 US.

On top of this you will need an oil tank (check out the Petersen web-site Peterson Fluid Systems : Oil Tanks ) and plumbing. Each dash-10 or dash-12 AN connector will be ~$50 each (probably cheaper in the USA - check your local suppliers of motorsport fittings) and you will need close on 20 of them (3 scavenge lines from the sump to scavenge stages in the pump, scavenge return line to tank, supply line from tank to pressure stage input, pressure stage to filter, filter to block, lines to/from cooler is 18 fittings and I'm sure I have forgotten something). I will be using -12 rather than -10, but I also have a supply of spares in stock and will not have to purchase many of these.

I have ordered the billet pan, pump and pump bracket @ a discounted price as we are helping out with the prototype.

The damper and oil pump drive adaptor/pulley will be ordered when we are about to do final engine assembly as they are ex-stock.

Note that I am the test pilot for this kit and the billet sump is in the CNC now and I expect to have it before the end of August.

The only thing you will need in the heads is upgraded valve springs and a retainer kit, which you can get from JWT (their part number A3503-SPRNG). The jury is out on valves right now .... whether I go with Ferrea or another supplier is still a discussion item with my engine builder.

Omega Tech balancers and sump/pump systems can be found on the web at :| Ross Performance Engine Parts - Metal Jacket - ROSS Tuffbond Harmonic Balancers - Crankshaft Damper - ROSS Performance Parts |:

RB

Awesome thanks man. I talked to ferrea, they told me the 350z valvetrain is the same as the 370z which isn't true. I tried to talk to them about a custom set, but they didn't want to hear so i just left them alone and will try to find another source

Location of the sump? Would the only option, be pouring it in the truck area? There is no room unset the hood, i don't want to cut the car up to try and make it fit.

If you moved the battery to the trunk, could you make it fit?

I don't think there will be sufficient depth.

Since mine is a race car, I will cut a circular hole under the battery tray and drop the tank down thru it and run plumbing into the passenger foot well.

You could do what 1Slow370Z did and mount at the rear under the hatch as an alternative

I thought the battery route as well, but i dont know about cutting into my car. Guess the only route would be 1slowz route. Damn z cars with no hood room

My last few conversations with the experienced fellows at JWT left me deciding that I would not spin the stock crankshaft much higher than stock for long at all. Maybe like 7800rpm here and there, but not often. At 8000 and up its going to develop small fractures until failure.

That's what i was worried about, though i would only be pushing 7800-8000 once it was ready for track, and that would be only once or twice a year.

I just visited jwt, i don't see anything b on the website for vvel valvetrain upgrade.

Matches my feedback as well ........ which I why I have ordered a steel crank - it is not cheap BUT well worth it ...

It appears that there are quite a few options for up-grading our ~Z's~
either leaving it N/A and add some bolt ons & a tune (Premium Parts) and get between
320-340ish hp. & 270-300tq...(ballpark numbers) & that could easily set you back 5-6k
w/headers,exhaust,CAI,intake & Tune....probably get away with leaving tranny stock;Aoto or Man.
Or get out the Big $$$$$ or plastic,and force induce that sucker,build that tranny up,use premium parts for durability & get 500/600hp. & 400/600tq. pending on tune-for about $15-20k+++
i haven't read all of the comments;but my budget says to just stay N/A for now....2 more years on my house payment & then we may venture out.
lot's of good imfo out here;i'm taking notes.
Have a nice day!

Elmo, sorry if I was not clear ........ in terms of valve-train upgrade and JWT, I was referring only to spring package upgrade to support the JUN cams you have mentioned. JUN cams will have to be sourced from a JUN supplier.

If you want to look a valves etc, check the Brian Crower site - they do a single spring package but I personally would not use a single spring package in my engine.

RB

I already been in talks with David from Brian Crower and even had help from a car club member that gave me specs for hr vs vqhr valvetrain and he got back to me yesterday not being able to help with a dual spring or beehive set up. I have the jun cam sourced out, and even tried to email jun himself to see what kind of valvetrain set he would use our if in could source one out of Japan. Also i talked to kyle from ipp and he said he doesn't know of anyone that makes a upgraded valvetrain kit. Only company that I've seen was GTM.

From jwt
 

Well another hiccup but some good came out of this email.

At least from this email it gives hope for people wanting to Na and make power. An intake manifold not from a likeable source from forum members on here but an gtr conversion is in the works.

why does he put B after every period? maybe i'm just crazy, but that drives me crazy.

Lol. Helps separate the sentence. Hopefully his exhaust cam is a success so we dont have to order from japan.

side note, sometime this winter i am thinking of upgrading to a lightweight flywheel and PPE headers. shooting to break 340whp with bolt ons

i don't think that's hard to do with bolt ons and e85 tune.

not trying to switch to e85 tho

i don't think the headers will give you 14whp...

With eck tek you should make 350. All depends on your tuner. Some on here there is a Z with cbe, short rams, ppe lth, tuned on pump gas with ecu tek made 342 to the wheels.

Fi lth have shown to gain 14 whp throughout the powerband

Ecu tek offer features uprev cannot do.like having full control.over the vvel

that's when they are the only mod... if you already have an exhaust, intakes, etc. LTH will not give you 14whp and yes ecutek has capabilities that uprev doesn't