Preventative Clutch Maintenance
 

I've been going through the runaround with Nissan as well as my 3rd party warranty company for the past few days regarding CSC failure. My clutch pedal has gotten noticeably softer, and I'm pretty sure it is the CMC. I drive this car all over Texas (often in rural areas), so I'm not interested in getting stranded. Since I'm going to replace the CMC myself, I figured I might as well do some preventative maintenance while I'm at it. I haven't done much clutch work in the past, so I'm definitely going to get some help from a friend with a bit more knowledge. Of course, I have to get all the tools and parts that we'll need first. The reason for this thread is to ask a few questions that I have as well as get any additional suggestions for work to be done while I'm down there.

The car is my DD with 52K miles on it. During my occasional spirited driving, I'm not afraid to push the car hard. I want the performance, but I have to accept that it's still my DD. FYI, I am perfectly fine with the stock clutch for now - it is in good shape and I'm not looking to spend $$$ to replace the clutch right now. I will address that issue in 50K miles when it's ready for replacement.

My first question is about the transmission jack. I assume they are all pretty much the same, but I wanted to make sure nobody sees any issues working on the Z with this particular one: Transmission Jack. I have a coupon for it, but if I need to look elsewhere, I will. I think I have everything else, unless there is some weird clutch tool that I might need. I know there is a clutch alignment tool, but I think it's only required if you replace the clutch - I might be talking out of my a$$ here, so please correct me if I am wrong.

My second question is about recommended mods while I'm doing the work. As I mentioned, no need for a clutch, so please don't even bother. I will be purchasing an OEM Clutch Master Cylinder and the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit. The kit comes with SS clutch line, so that is covered. However, I saw a Z1 transmission mount FS today and thought that might be a decent upgrade. Thoughts for a DD? The one I saw was being sold by an older gentleman that didn't want the added NVH (I don't think it will be a problem for me). Anything else?

Thanks y'all :tiphat:

Flywheel?

The jack looks fine. I wouldn't bet on it holding up for the long haul, but that's pretty much par for the course with Harbor Freight.

Good call. I will look into it. I drive with the windows down a lot, so I would expect to hear it pretty clearly. That being said, I don't really care about the extra chatter as long as it's not excessively loud.

Yup, but that's perfectly acceptable. I'm looking at paying $120ish in lieu of $700+ in labor. I could use it once and then throw it away and feel like I came out on top :rofl2:

Set your expectation for flywheel noise somewhere in the neighborhood of "F250 Diesel". If the particular one you get is less than that, score. :rofl2:

Chuck, are you thinking the Z1 flywheel? Based on the price, I'll probably pass (definitely do it when I replace the clutch though) since it would increase my costs by 50% at this time. I'm probably going to pass on the trans mount for now, too. I have to run this all by the accountant (wife), and I'm trying to keep it reasonable because I have already told her to budget money for new tires in the coming weeks.

:icon18: No problemo :tup:

I've got a spec, but I wouldn't buy it again. I'd go with the Z1 setup or skip straight to selling a kidney and buying the OS Giken clutch setup.

And tell the accountant everything based on retail price of the repair. That'll give you more wiggle room.

LOL You better believe that I mention the $700+ labor savings every time I mention buying another part :icon17:

The goal should be to spend the exact amount as you would pay to have someone do it, but get a bunch of new parts and tools out of it. My math says you've got $700 to play with.

id mostly be worried about properly bleeding the entire system once i had all the parts installed. if youve done it before on the Z then you'll be fine.

:icon18: That would be the goal if insurance were paying for it ;)

Coming out of my pocket, I'd rather save the money for now. If the money weren't an issue, I would just pay Colvin to do the work. I don't have a problem buying tools when I need them. I'm running out of room in the garage anyway - I have no idea where I'm going put that transmission jack as it is :bowrofl:

Yup. Twice. :tup:

nice!!

Send down to H-Town. I'm sure we could "store" it for you;)

This is exactly what I have going on. Originally thought the install got hosed. After checking with a few people realized that it was just par for the course.

I have the Z1 combo. Works great and appears to be holding my power level.

:icon17: My buddy across town would gladly use it all the time store it for me and keep it local. However, if any of you needs it after I complete my work, I'd be happy to loan it for an indeterminate amount of time (or just sell it to get a few bucks back).

being that its from harbor freight if it makes it thru one install you got your moneys worth.

Lifetime warranty FTW. Even if I have to exchange it for a new one after every use :rofl2:

ahh, party on then!!!!

Just ordered the following for my Z:

Z1 CSC Elimination Kit
OEM CMC
Z1 SS Brake Lines
2L Motul RBF600

Time to go buy a transmission jack :tup:

FWIW, I had a very interesting conversation with one of Round Rock Nissan's service managers yesterday. I was impressed with how honest she was with me about the matter. Obviously, the CSC falls into a grey area with regard to powertrain warranty. Being out of the 36K mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, they treat the warranty service for this part as "good will" coverage. Essentially, the dealer will forward all your information to Nissan, and Nissan will determine whether you deserve coverage. They look at things like maintenance and service records as well as your personal history with the dealership (i.e. how much money do you spend there?). Doing all my own maintenance with only one warranty claim, she said I have a 50/50 shot of Nissan approving the warranty. I wouldn't be surprised if she was just being nice. If I had all my service and maintenance done at that dealer, I would likely be a shoe-in for warranty coverage.

Rather than go through any more trouble than I've already gone through trying to get this covered under warranty AND wind up getting stuck with another OEM CSC (she confirmed they would not be able to install an aftermarket part under warranty coverage), I'd rather just get to know the car a little better and install something less likely to fail down the road. She acknowledged that for me, this is probably the best solution.

Round Rock Nissan continues to be the only local dealer that I will let touch the Z. Despite not always being able to provide me with what I need, they are honest and have never employed the typical shady tactics associated with dealers.

I would do it myself for two reasons: Get to know the engine/car better, and knowing that doing it myself would be doing it right. Stealerships are under such pressure to rush everything to make a profit that they don't have time to take their time.

Don't forget a good clutch/flywheel combo, female brake line union (to replace NeeSan's clutch line restrictor) and LUBE for the input shaft.
:icon17:

AND... if you're really bad4ss you'll replace the OEM flywheel bolts and pressure plate bolts w/ARPs. The 5.sl0w c0yote flywheel bolts w/ARP chamfered washers and RB26 PP bolts.
:icon18:

:icon17: Not for sure why the majority on here treat a clutch fluid change like its rocket science....just follow the OEM service manual instructions. I had it dun w/a helper in under 25'.

I'm not replacing the clutch. I'm mostly stock, and I've been perfectly happy with the stock clutch... for now. Definitely not bada$$ enough for ARP at this time.

:tiphat: on the clutch restrictor... I found one at my local AutoZone :tup:

For whatever reason, the first time my wife helped me with the clutch fluid, it took us nearly 1L of fluid and 20+ min just to bleed. Second time it was done in a few min (<30 min for the whole job jack stands and all). I don't know what the deal was. Same procedure both times ... just following the FSM.

JARblue,
Was the 2nd time bleed with the restrictor removed?

Nope. Stock one is still on there. I've got a replacement one ready to go when I do the transmission work.

I postponed the work cause my buddy had some other obligations. Hopefully we'll get to it soon.

Loox like ARP released the SR20DET flywheel bolts on 2 AUG 13. These will be a better fit than the 5.0 C0y0te flywheel bolts that I had to use.
Flywheel bolt kit: 102-2803
Pressure Plate bolt kit: 102-2201