Ok. So im regards to the quaife, alot of the roads around where I travel are not 100% flat, some areas can feel bumpy. So when I drive hard on these roads I can sometimes feel my Z going slightly airborne, maybe only very briefly.

Would that situation be bad for a quaife LSD? I don't want to be gunning it hard and then lose control over a small hump or dip on the road.

Probably isn't many, that would still have traction while airborne.

I went with the CUSCO 1.5 RS from Revzone who set it up and installed it for me. It is clunky and loud doing parking maneuvers but fine everywhere else and is great on the track.

Yeah RevZone are the guys who offered the Cusco to me.

The Cusco 1.5 way is definitely loud and clunky. Definitely would not recommend it for a street driven car. For a track toy/competition car it is great option though.

Interesting, but some others claim it not to be too loud.

The Quaife is fine,,,unless you're going off road or turning at bad angles (up & down)...you got to really get it in an awkward position to "teeter" up one rear wheel.
I need to jack up one side of mine to confirm it...but there was only one instance when i drove off a steep angle from concrete to grass that it appeared to not be pulling w/both rear wheels.
Other than that-i have perfectly even rear tire wear.

I was going to get the Cusco 1.5. Daelen at MA Motorsports talked me out of it, and into the OS Giken. Said the OS Giken is quieter then the Cusco and a little better on the street. That plus he gave me a great price on the OS Giken. :tup:

Pretty much exactly what I've heard. At this point though I'm not changing the LSD out again. Given the car rarely sees street duty these days and primarily sees autox events its streetability isn't high on my list of concerns.

So when you say the clutch types are clunky on super tight stuff, does that depend on speed or just the angle of the turn itself?

For example, on something like the tail of the dragon would you get clunk with the cusco or OSG?

Im running 1.5 OSG and only get occasional whine until it warms up

No, they are noise on slow speed tight turns like in parking lot or turning from a stop at a stop light. It's like having a truck in 4 wheel drive and trying to make a tight turn on pavement.

Sent from my SM-N910P using Tapatalk

How Long do you think it takes to install this kit, I have 2017 370 base with no lsd.

https://www.z1motorsports.com/quaife...d-pr-2397.html


I understand it does not come with shims/spacers, where can I purchase the ones I need. Thanks.

Having that new of a ~Z~ ,,,You shouldn't need any seals or shims/spacers (other than a tube of Ultra Grey/Black RTV)
Mine was a plug & play...came with new bearings already pressed on & there are only 2 thick shims (1 on each side of carrier).
Pop out both shafts,remove cover & clean all old silicone,remove 4 bearing cap bolts(mark them first) & then gently pull out,,,may take a lady-slipper & prybar.
Though you have a 17',may be easier to just install new side bearings vs. having yours pressed off & onto new one.
don't mix up the thick side shims (L/R) mark those as well.
After removing ring gear from open carrier & torquing to spec on Quaife (w/Loctite),,,just drop it back in & put the thick washers on each side of bearings (as they came off) and Torque down bearing caps to specs (i'm thinking Loctite on those as well) & "Presto"...should be set.
Ck. backlash & use some type of substance to ensure gear contact/mesh is correct.
Also,,,those side washers on each side of bearings will be snug going back into place.
as for you Question-Once out from under the ~Z~ & taking your time-you can install it into the pumpkin in 1 day easily.
You may want to up-grade your bushings; as the rear center one is oil filled & will eventually fail.
A Weekend Job is do-able for sure; pending that you have proper tools & decent work place.

:iagree:

Thanks for the INFO !!!

I just wanted to say thank you.

Every single time I have a question about the new upgrade I'm wanting to do. I can come here and find a sticky or a wealth of information very easily. Thank you to the starter of this thread and also this awesome community in general!

200% Agreed! Thank you!
 

I totally agree! I am going to tackle install of OSG tomorrow on my 2017 Nismo and feel much more confident about the job after reading all the insights from the guys here on the forum. Have a great weekend and THANKS AGAIN!

With the OS Giken gear lube. My OS Giken diff quite. You don't even know it's there until you start to hammer on the loud pedal.

I can vouch for that. Dang if it ain't quite as a mouse!!!!!!

Hey guys,
My Cusco 1.5 way is being build as we speak.
I have 2014 Nismo 370z and needed to order new stub for the diff. I talked with Z1 that told me that the 2014 Nismo have traded stub hols and you can’t find this part even from Nissan. They sent me a 2013 stub with hardware. From my understanding the hols size on the stub is different. I don’t have my car at the shop I just took the diff there, do you know about this issues with Nismo 2014? When I will try to put back the diff I will have an issue with the hols sizes. Any ideas? Do I need to take the other side off the car also and take it to the shop? Pleas help me as this diff change is very bumpy for me (the car is on jack stands over 3 weeks now)

Hello all,

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, as it has been necromanced already.

I have ordered the Cusco LSD251 L15 1.5 Way from Cusco directly and am expecting delivery in November.

I have a sport package with the OEM VLSD, was planning to order the short stub axle and the finned nismo cover. For cars with the OEM VLSD, are all the items on page 1 still applicable?

I intend to do spirited driving fortnightly, and a few track days a year. Is the finned cover necessary?

Thanks in advance.

Some good info on this thread. Ty all!

I want to add one thing. If you order an OS Giken diff you can have it tuned to your liking before it is shipped to you. It is only $150.00 extra to have it done.

upgrade
 

My car is just used for road racing. Just curious if anyone has feedback
on having Z1 do the swap. I have a manual factory VSLD. From the
comments I'm leaning toward the OSG or the Nismo GT Pro. When people
talk about maintenance, what does that mean? If it means removing the
diff, opening it up and replacing clutch plates, after how many miles or
track hours, will this have to be done.
This seems like a very time consuming swap. My concern is that a shop
will call it "close enough" rather than spend another two hours taking it
apart, adjusting it and re-assembling it. My hope is that Z1 has done a lot
of swaps and the person doing has the patience to it right.
Do guys, have a gear recommendation for a road racing car?

Z1 did my car back in 2017 or so. The clutch type diff will require more frequent fluid changes. That's it. You will also benefit greatly by installing a diff cooler. The diff cooler will keep the fluid from being cooked which will require less fluid changes. If you buy the OS Giken, use the OS Giken diff fluid. It eleminates the driveability issues like the clunking and banging on tight turns.

I would recommend going with OS Giken. I track the car, take it for drift events and the LSD works incredibly well.

The maintenance boils down to changing the fluid every year or two, depending on mileage and usage. OS Giken plates aren't meant to be maintained.

Gearing is a better topic...depending on if you plan on boosting the car or keeping it stock, you might want to go with a shorter final drive.

For a NA track car to most people run 18in wheels on that would not be wise. For a boosted car with 18's, they go to 3.33's.

Agreed. There are other variations though...I have a street/track car, with 19s, so shorter gearing is very nice. Boosted definitely requires longer gearing, especially on 18s, as you said...

Hi,

If I understand correctly.
With a 7AT VLSD 370z car.
If I want to install a 350Z MT VLSD (or 370Z MT with VLSD) pumpkin on a 370Z 7AT car (or 370Z MT car) , with Quaife (QDF13L).
I'll need two short flanges.
2 solutions...
1) (driver) flange 38220-1NC1B and (passenger) flange 38220-1NC1A, and it need to cut the 38220-1NC1A flange. The 38220-1NC1A flange loses a spline length.
2) Buy two 38220-1NC1B flanges (because it's short) to use on the passenger and driver sides (without to cut). This way, I have a longer spline length on the passenger side... identical to the driver's side longer spline length and with a gasket too.

Correct?
Attachment 154032

in the solution number 2, with two 38220-1NC1B flanges , passenger and driver sides:
more longer spline length = more power transmission, or, more strong.
i will use two 38220-1NC1B flange, not flange 38220-1NC1A with cut, does 38220-1NC1B flange will have same comportment than flange 38220-1NC1A cut ?

for information, the pumpkin of the 350z MT (3.538) is identical (external) fixing points on the 370z 7AT, identical height for the drive shaft and the transmission universal joints as on the 7AT (3.357) 370z, no misalignment (on 2 European cars, 350z MT and 370z 7AT) with the axes, checked at 0.5mm on the fixing points on the chassis, and on the rotating axes.

pictures (38220-1NC1B and flange 38220-1NC1A) come from Z1motorsports
https://www.z1motorsports.com/rear-d...ft-p-4622.html

Attachment 154030
Attachment 154031

38220-1NC1B = 38220-JK01B
38220-1NC1A = 38220-JK01A

Many thanks

You're not cutting any flanges, you'll just buy another shorter one. The flange has a circlip at the end and I'm not sure how you'd get a proper fit if you'd be cutting it yourself.